Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on April 20, 2020, 08:12:44 pm
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I recently got a new heat gun that came with a diffuser. I thought it would be a good idea. I assumed that I would measure the 4" distance from the outlet of the diffuser to the wood but that doesn't seem to heat the wood as well. If I measure from where the diffuser attaches to the wood it gets too hot too fast. I realise I'll sort it out eventually but I'm just wondering if others noticed the same thing when they tried a diffuser.
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DC, I have a master heat gun which gets very hot and I hold it about 1" from the bow but keep it moving over the entire limb or area I am working on.
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Do you use a diffuser?
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I do the same as Badger.
Pappy
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I don't even know what a diffuser is. :)
Pappy
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One of these things, maybe I used the wrong word :D
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Looks more like a condenser to me. ;)
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Wagner calls it a flare nozzle ;)
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Wagner calls it a flare nozzle ;)
My old black and decker I inherited calls them the same thing lol. Has like 5 different attachments, 2 are super weird more like shields than nozzles
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OK now we know what it is, does anyone use them?
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I think those funny looking things are for removing paint! Or making it easier to burn yourself >:D (lol)!
Hawkdancer
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I thought that if I kept the opening parallel with the bow it would direct the heat along the length and might stop the back scorching a bit. I thought Del used one.
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I use the flare nozzle it directs the heat onto the bow over a greater length... clamping side cheeks to the bow improves it even more to give faster more even heating and avoiding zebra stripes.
Del
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Did you find that you had to mess with the distance when you started using it?
PS I looked at your blog and it looks like you're at about 2" from the bow. Is that about it?
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I never liked any of the attachments. I either do it the way badger describes or with a flexible silicone pipe heater
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DC I think mine came with that attachment to. I haven’t used it but I was wondering the same thing. I do use one that I would call a step down reducer and I kinda like it.
Bjrogg
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I did a short vid:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kM1_A2A0_TI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kM1_A2A0_TI)
Del
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This is my second Wagner. First one burned up.The one I have now shuts off if you hold it to close to the wood. I do have a red Master-Mite heat gun that works better for me for an even heat treat. With oil on the stave I can hold it just off the wood, but it does take more time. That flare nozzle looks like an extension we put on our car tail pipe back in the day along with dice, fender skirts, and Coon tails.The 1950's.
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I tried the atachments & didnt like them , I just use the gun held about 4" above the limb & when the inrared thermometer reaches 375-400 Deg I move up the limb a couple inches clamping the limb behind me I try to clamp as much of the limb while hot as posible ! Here is before & after tillered to 32" !
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... & when the infrared thermometer reaches 375-400 Deg I move up the limb a couple inches ...
Infrared thermometer! :o ... That's not primitive enough ;) >:D ::) ;D
But seriously... is it one where you can see the heat ?
Del
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I will try to use my primitive iphone to exsplain :D Del its just a simple laser infrared gun there like $20 for remotely monitoring temp !
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Hope Ritch does'nt mind but I use one too at times.
Here I'm checking temp on heat to overly to quick cure glue under heat lamp put on with smooth-on epoxy.
(https://i.imgur.com/g77yElR.jpg)
and with checking temp on making hide glue
(https://i.imgur.com/nID7FYK.jpg)
That attatchment came along with my heat gun too referring to previous topic.I don't use it.
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Lol...I guees its ok Ed sense your the one that showed me the system in the first place ;D
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SB, when you're checking the temp do you do it while the heat gun is aimed at the wood or do you swing the gun away and then check the temp. I find that the heat drops very quickly when you swing the gun away.
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Ta for the pics :)
Del
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Don I keep the gun in the heat zone I do notice I get variation in temp from center to the edges but I dont really know how accurate temp wise the guns are but would guess +- 5 Deg when holding at 4" it takes a good while to come up to temp but no worries about scorching the back with a good clamping system I get better results now in terms of holding reflex but use the gun manly for reference I still pay attention to the wood !
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I've tried Del's clamping splints down the side to prevent scorching but I can never get the splints tight enough to the bow. Lousy staves I guess. Even a tiny crack between the splint and the stave just seems to amplify the scorching.
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The higher hold helps with it ,but takes longer ,but a deeper heat treat I think ,maybe Ed will chime back in Im just using his system he has maid a ton of bows with it good smooth caul and lots of clamp blocks & clamping up the whole limb until it cool helps to I think !
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I've tried Del's clamping splints down the side to prevent scorching but I can never get the splints tight enough to the bow. Lousy staves I guess. Even a tiny crack between the splint and the stave just seems to amplify the scorching.
I put several layers of masking tape on the sides to help seal any gaps... and move the clamps along with the heat gun if necessary...
Del
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I can see how clamping sides will stop any scorching on the back but it will heat up faster then too since your containing or enclosing the heat.If doing that way I'd hold the heat gun farther away yet from the bow limb.
Holding the heat gun at the proper distance so it does'nt heat up too fast and scorch too quickly to me is important.A time factor I watch too of letting the heat slowly penetrate long enough to get deep enough.
Angle of heat gun pointing can make a difference too as far as scorching goes.I make sure I'm directly 90 degrees on top.
I've read and have seen myself that wood will plastify at 350 degrees.That's why I run temp up to close to 400 for a few minutes before moving on a half inch or so.While clamping down the wood is still above approximately 350 degrees as heat gun is moved along.
I've checked the accuracy of my laser thermometer against different thermometers.It's accurate.
Like most things you do them often enough you get a feel for what's going on and use of a laser thermometer is'nt always neccessary while heat treating limbs,but it is a reassurance to me that I did heat treat good enough.
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One thing that wasn't mentioned is with this deep heat treating is its best to allow wood re hydrate for a longer period of time I usually let mine set at least 9 days but the one in the pic & I retreated twice do to not liking the 1st profile & re did it so Im going 3 weeks , my humidity is just now comming up to 50% from winter !