Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => At the Forge => Topic started by: High-Desert on March 28, 2020, 08:09:57 pm
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I want to make a froe for slitting tougher staves. Does anyone know of a good steel for this? I’ve read that mild steel will work good enough but I’m curious if there is a better steel for the job.
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I want to make a froe for slitting tougher staves. Does anyone know of a good steel for this? I’ve read that mild steel will work good enough but I’m curious if there is a better steel for the job.
I make mine out of 5160 spring steel. You could substitute "leaf spring" steel for it. Mild steel would be a last resort as it won't hold an edge for crap. Since you will be hitting the spine with a mallet, mild steel will deform where hardened steel won't.
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I had a second thought. If I didn't have a forge setup and wanted to make a Fro, here's what I would do. I would grind the teeth off of an old farriers rasp (arguable 1095 steel) Cut the handle tang off and weld it to a piece of round tubing of the appropriate size for fitting a handle. Then spend your time shaping the cutting edge into about a 30 degree chisel edge. If you do it slowly and don't let the steel get hot (change colors) it would retain it's heat treat. It would be inexpensive, relatively easily made and work VERY well. I made one exactly like this years and years ago and I still have it somewhere. The larger farriers rasps are 13-15" long. You could cut yours to any length needed from that.
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Thanks Brian, I have been looking for some 5160 steel online after talking to you last week. I learned a lot during our conversation. I really like the idea with the farriers rasp, mine is getting dull and I need to replace it. So that’s exactly what I’m going to do! Thanks for the idea.
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Thanks Brian, I have been looking for some 5160 steel online after talking to you last week. I learned a lot during our conversation. I really like the idea with the farriers rasp, mine is getting dull and I need to replace it. So that’s exactly what I’m going to do! Thanks for the idea.
It will do a great job! If you have a torch, once you get it all welded up and the edge cut to where you want it, heat the spine (opposite of the cutting edge) with the torch until it turns a bluish color. Be careful not to let the color creep down towards the cutting edge. I have done this with the cutting edge in a water bath while heating the spine. What that will do is pull some of the hardness out of the spine so you can use a steel hammer to strike it (if you wanted to). leaving it with full hardness on the spine will lead to chips and cracks if you hit it with a steel hammer as it's too hard.
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Are you sayin my I should slowly grind the 30 degree bevel on the file in its hardened state? Or anneal the file, grind, then harden and temper?
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Neat, I think!? Got a piece of spring steel (5160?) at least 40, 50 years old ready to be a froe, just need to straighten it a bit. Got not real forge or anvil - do have a piece of railroad tie, and an old grill
To fire up charcoal. Heat it and beat it sort of straight and then bevel about 30 degree? I don't know jack about forge work!
Hawkdancer
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Are you sayin my I should slowly grind the 30 degree bevel on the file in its hardened state? Or anneal the file, grind, then harden and temper?
you can grind the teeth off of the file, and grind in the cutting edge without removing the heat treat if you go slow and cool it down with water as you go. It will make it harder to grind but if you take it slow you'll be fine.
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Neat, I think!? Got a piece of spring steel (5160?) at least 40, 50 years old ready to be a froe, just need to straighten it a bit. Got not real forge or anvil - do have a piece of railroad tie, and an old grill
To fire up charcoal. Heat it and beat it sort of straight and then bevel about 30 degree? I don't know jack about forge work!
Hawkdancer
If you get it beyond orange color to a slight yellow when heating you can straighten it with a vise. Problem is you'll need to get it above that temperature (color) to harden it again.
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Yep spring steels your best bet 1065 or 5160. Either one won’t do ya wrong. If you can get ahold of a leaf spring they’re pretty much ready to go. The mounting hole can be where your handle slides in. Just needs to get in the forge for some straightening and hammering out the bevels.
If you want you could cut the bolt hole off and just Fold it and forge weld it, and keep the back end open slightly and then drift it to the right size.
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Thanks Brian, I have been looking for some 5160 steel online after talking to you last week. I learned a lot during our conversation. I really like the idea with the farriers rasp, mine is getting dull and I need to replace it. So that’s exactly what I’m going to do! Thanks for the idea.
Drop that rasp into so white vinegar for an hour or so, it’ll sharpen right up.
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Thanks for all your help guys. I’m going to have a go at this. That’s a good idea Bryce, I’ve never heard of that.