Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: silent sniper on March 27, 2020, 10:12:17 am
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Hello everyone,
I have some questions about this small sapling bow I am working on. I have a black locust sapling truck that I split in half for billets. I have worked the grain down to the heartwood and the entire width is under 2”. What I am unsure about is the high crown and general overall design to make with this bow. I don't have much experience with self-backed black locust, so I was not sure if it could handle this much crown? The stave has a few knots on the top on the crown but nothing too ugly. Should I keep the belly wide or reduce the width to take the strain off the back and just make the bow longer?
I love laminated bows and I could just as easily decrown the billets and add a bamboo/wood backing if that would be a better option. I just wanted to give it a chance as a self-backed bow before I go to the backed option.
Let me know what you think would be best.
Thanks
Taylor
The check in the billet is only a few inches long and will be removed when I splice the billets together.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704892042_d964b872ec_c.jpg)[/url]Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2iJfyHh)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704891962_6fb7b27bc6_c.jpg)[/url]Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2iJfyFU)
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A crowned back is a good thing for locust. Several builders prefer to "trap" the back on flatter staves. I would only narrow it enough to get shoulders on it and not abrupt edges where the back transitions to the belly.
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Smaller rings here would be of benefit I think.
HH~
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I'd say to keep the belly flat.
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Crowned sapling bows generally perform better than you might think. I would go dead flat belly. Leave the crown as it is. The tree thought it was strong enough when it grew like that :)
Good luck and get the tiller dead nuts on right off the bat.
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Flat belly is good but leave it longer by a good 2 inches. Leave the crown. No need to chase a ring either. Jawge
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the help