Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bassman on September 24, 2019, 08:12:44 am

Title: pics
Post by: bassman on September 24, 2019, 08:12:44 am
Here are some pics. of  bows that are green staves reduced enough to get them on forms, and roughly shaped ,and left to dry.Then they go to the hot box, and then belly heat treated before coming off the forms,and then tillered. Seems to work out Ok for me. The one hanging is a sinew backed Osage sapling, and the rest are Birch, and Elm.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: Pat B on September 24, 2019, 09:11:12 am
Are you steaming the staves before putting them in the forms? The reflexed one should be OK without steam but the ones with multiple bends may be problematic.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: bassman on September 24, 2019, 10:14:46 am
No steam Pat. These were all done the day I cut the trees. Juice was just flying out of them.They are easy to get shaped with out steam. They  draw knife like cutting  butter, and the bark comes off easily. I use seasoned staves at times also. I posted maybe thinking this would be a good way for guys getting stared. Not for seasoned bow makers. They already have a chosen way of making bows.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: DC on September 24, 2019, 10:25:40 am
I've heard differing opinions about whether or not a green bent stave will hold it's shape. Have you made many bows doing this? Does any/much of the bend pull out?

PS I've just read one of your other posts and you heat treat before removing it from the caul. That would help it hold it's shape ;)
Title: Re: pics
Post by: bassman on September 24, 2019, 11:10:17 am
Yes DC they would take a lot more set, but I hot box them ,and then do an intensive  belly  heat treat, and keep heat treating while tillering, and yes I still get set,but they will normally still have some reflex when finished. This is not for seasoned bowyer's, but I thought maybe it would help beginners who end up with 2 to 3 to 4 inches of set  on their bows like I did. Seems to work for me.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: Pat B on September 24, 2019, 11:41:28 am
Are you sealing the backs. Wet wood drying too fast will check.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: bownarra on September 24, 2019, 12:20:03 pm
Are you sealing the backs. Wet wood drying too fast will check.

Not necessarily. If they are thin enough. Obviously some species will respond badly to this method but not all.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: bassman on September 24, 2019, 01:28:27 pm
Pat, no glue , no paint, no shellac, and 95 percent of the time no cracks. Hornbeam cracked on the belly on one bow, but it was small. I just filled it with crazy glue.
Title: Re: pics
Post by: DC on September 24, 2019, 07:28:44 pm
This is kinda sounding like it may be a good idea :) :). Roughly how long from stump to bow?
Title: Re: pics
Post by: bassman on September 25, 2019, 09:34:26 am
I build this way to stock pile bows in different stages, and finish them in the winter when I get cabin fever. Not to worried about the time element.Yesterday after a week of dry time I reduced the Birch staves to floor tiller after cutting the fades,and reducing the handle, and back on the form with a little more reflex induced. I will do this with all 6 bows.Then the hot box a couple days, and heavy heat treat the belly. Take them off the form ,and string them backwards to free up the forms.Now they are ready to tiller ,and finish in the winter. I might have as many as 12 bows done this way for winter or, maybe just these 6.