Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: kdub on April 14, 2008, 08:31:21 am
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Will a shorter bow break easier than a longer one. For example, will a bow in the 60-64 in area have more chance of failling than a bow made of the same materials and specifications that is 68 in? I was looking at a bowyers work at a renniasance fair yesterday, and when discussing the prospect of a custom bow he told me that he wouldn't reccomend a bow that is shorter than 6ft due to my 28in draw, and the 60-65# draw weight that I want. Any input?
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Sounds like that dude is into the rennisance elb thing. I think it depends on the design,and the wood itself. Use the search on here to look at the numerous shorter than 72" bows by all the bowyers of PA. And former wheel bow shooters dont realize the draw difference between a comp and the real ones seen here. I can draw to 28 on most of my bows,but really 26 is good,and wasnt that hard to get used to. Auggie.
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You can make one pretty shot for 28 in. draw but as for the question,for sure the shorter
it is the more likely to break,just for example take a long stick and bend it,then shorten it and it ant going to bend as far till it breaks,that only makes sense.For a 28 inch full draw It would be pushing
it for much less that 60 in. at least for me.I wouldn't build one for someone else less than maybe 66.
Pappy
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Bend in the handle bows can be 4" shorter.
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He makes bows out of osage, bbo, and boo backed boo. I need a bow a little shorter so that I can hunt in the brush easier, and I still want the bow to pack a punch. Do any of these woods take wear and tear better? Another bow that I am looking at from another bowyer is a r/d hickory with bamboo backing, it is 64 inches long. What do you think about the durability of the later bow at a 28 in draw?
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A well tillered hickory bow with rigid handle at 64" has little likelihood of breaking due to limb stress. If it goes, its cause of backing delam, wood flaw, etc.
Dave
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Another idea would be to get your self a stave and make a 64" selfbow.
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I would like to do that. I dont know how though, what should I do to get started, ie; picking a staff, tools, etc....
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Start reading some of threads on here, buy a few books, search the web the info is out there. Go to a primitive archery event like Pappy's
get together on May 2,3,4. Their is no excuse why ya can't build your own.
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Their is no excuse why ya can't build your own.
;D I like that attitude, thanks for the encouragement. OK I better start now, the sooner I start trying the sooner I will be successfull.
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One word of caution, its addicting ya might want to look over the Bowaholics thread ;D
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Thats a good thread, sounds like something wrth being addicted to. Other than the basic concerns of plunging myself into the world of bowmaking, I live in an apartment, so finding enough room to work may be a problem. I could go out on the balcony, probably my best bet would be to go over to my father inlaws furniture shop....duh idon't know why I havent thought about that before. You are right I have no excuse, there is plenty of info here, Ill pick up a copy of the bowyers bible, and get some staves. By the way where should I get the wood? Is osage a good wood to start with? What size of stave should I look for? I guess that I should take it step by step, there is no way all of my questons can be answered on one thread. Thanks Dana.
Kayl
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Osage is fine to start with but if yer buying it its pricey, might be better to start with a few red oak board bows first.
Their cheap and if ya mess up oh well.
Take a look at Jawge's website lots of good info.
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/archer.html
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A short bow can be durable. I have a little 61 inch lbend in handle "longbow" that pulls 45lbs at 28 inches and another that must be about 68 inches long that pulls 60lbs at 28 inches. It all really depends on the woods used, the width of the limbs etc. A long bow can be fast, durable and efficient but so can a shorter bow.
Mark in England
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kdub a board bow is a good place to start. i made my first froma board. a small 54" at my 22 inch draw it pulls 51-53 pounds. havent figured it to the exact yet. but its my first and shoots good. just start doin it and youll get addicted for sure. i got another ill be doin soon.good luck. ;D
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yall be ready for all my questions. It seems that the $ invested in a new bow that I "want" (I already have 5 bows) would be better spent on the materials needed to start making bows. That is something that Ive been wanting to do anyways, and then I would be able to have tons of bows,. It would be so cool to take a boar with a bow that I made myself. Thanks for all the info and encouragement yall.
Kayl
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yes, im sure its great to take something with "your own hands" ive only hunted never killed anything yet and its exciting alone.
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Bows in the 60-66" range can be just as durable as the 66-72" range. The trick is knowing how wide to make the bow for the specific type of wood you will be using. This "trick" is covered in TBB. As a general rule, the less set a bow takes, the longer it will last.
In my opinion, osage and hickory are the two best woods you can use to begin building bows. If you look hard enough you don't have to spend a whole lot of money on hickory or osage staves. A lot of guys are even willing to trade something for it. ;D Sometimes you can find branches or saplings of these woods (for free or very cheap) that will make fine bows.
If you want to gain some experience before working the "good stuff" I don't recommend lumberyard oak. I think ash is a better choice....it's slightly less brittle. The best wood for experimenting (in my view) comes from tree trimmings, fallen trees, and bulldozed tress. Make sure the wood is insect free and green.
Another important thing to keep in mind is the level of humidity the bow will be exposed to. Hickory is good in dry climates and osage is good in humid climates.
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we do have osage around here, and with some of the recent storms I bet that some got blown down, I should go look for some free wood.