Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Thunderlizard on March 04, 2019, 07:43:51 pm
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Howdy,
This is pacific yew sapling is the first bow that I’ve done from the stump all on my own.
Right now, I’ve got it bending pretty well on a long string.
As you can see in the first two photos, the upper limb (left limb on the first two photos) there are two good sized branch stubs that I left proud, as well as a curve on the back of the upper part of that limb, which I tried to follow while taking away from the belly. This might be swaying the way that I’m seeing the bend in that limb...
The next two photos are just the bow flipped around on my tillering tree so that the upper, knotty limb is on the right.
At this point, the long string is hanging down to about the 15” mark on the blue tape when the bow is totally unbraced.
In the photos, I’m pulling to about 27/28”, which would mean that I’ve got it pulling to the equivalent of 12/13” if I had an appropriate string on and the bow was braced to 7”. Am I thinking about that the correct way?
Any opinions on the tiller as it is right now would be really helpful!
One more thing. When is it appropriate to get it to a 7” brace. I already made a string. I’m just worried it’ll take too much set if I string it right now.
Thanks ya’ll!
- Patrick
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Looks pretty good from here. Check it with a straight edge. As to the string question. When you have it drawing to a point where the tip travel would have it at brace height, get the proper length string on it. If it’s dry, and if the tiller is good, set shouldn’t be an issue. Not caused by the shorter string length anyway. Missing your target weight will be with a long string for too long. Limbs will bend a little differently with a short string. 7 inches is a bunch. Not saying it’s too much as some may need it, but I would start long enough to clear your feathers and see how it shoots. If it shoots well at say 6 inches, that’s where I would leave it.
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Looks good to me. Neat bow. 8)
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Patrick, your tiller is looking pretty good. Do you know how hard you were pulling it to get the the 28" mark. If you braced the bow it will read almost the same at 28" even though your string was hanging loose 15".
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Looking good. Keep your long string as short as possible, such that it only hangs down about 6" it helps to minimise the difference between long string and short string.
I have an aluminium ring that I wind the string through to adjust the length, so that I can use the same long string on any bow. It also allows be to adjust the brace height during tillering and then I'll know exactly what length to make the proper sting.
An old bearing or such like will do the job :)
Del
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Looking good. Keep your long string as short as possible, such that it only hands down about 6" it helps to minimise the difference between long string and short string.
I have an aluminium ring that I wind the string through to adjust the length, so that I can use the same long string on any bow. It also allows be to adjust the brace height during tillering and then I'll know exactly what length to make the proper sting.
An old bearing or such like will do the job :)
Del
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the physics here, or what you're saying. But I'm under the impression that if the string were "hanging" at 6 inches, then the bow would be braced, and the string really wouldn't be hanging at all.
The very top of the blue tape, or bottom of that block holding the bow up, is marked at 10 inches, since I measured from the back of handle to make those marks.
Should I just get the stiring as short as possible without any tension on the bow?
Thanks!
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I use a long thing just long enough to get to low brace. Once there the draw weight is consistent through the rest of the draw. Using a long string too long can affect the draw weight and the tiller. The long string pulls the tips straight(er) down and braced it pulls the tips inward.
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Different people do this differently. I floor tiller to get it flexing some. 2, 3 inches tip travel. Then I go to the long string and brace it just snug. On the tillering stick I will pull it an inch or 2 and check the tiller. Fix it on both limbs, and when it's right, go another inch. Fix it and go another inch. I will at that point brace it 5, 6 inches as I am already pulling it that far AND, the tiller is right. Easier for me to get the limbs in sync with a proper string on it. The long string changes the angle at the limb tip. The larger that angle, the more stack weight felt (not true weight). So with a long string, it could say 50lbs because of that string angle, when shortening the string reduces the stack weight. Now your pulling 43lbs. Missed your weight if 50 was the target.
Plus one PatB
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@ Thunderlizard
"Should I just get the string as short as possible without any tension on the bow?
Thanks!"
Yes...
Get a string that will only just slip onto the nocks... it will probably hang down 6" once you hook the scale on it.
Del
(I think you were overthinking it ;) )
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Looks good.
Just a couple of things
I keep knotted areas just a little stiffer than the rest of the limb.
I would only long string to around 11" for a 28" draw looking for a good tiller, which you have, and bowweight or a little over. That puts me at 10# over potential bow weight. Then I would string it at a low brace of 3 or so inches.
Looks like it is time to string it though I didn't see any weights posted.
Jawge
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Patrick, your tiller is looking pretty good. Do you know how hard you were pulling it to get the the 28" mark. If you braced the bow it will read almost the same at 28" even though your string was hanging loose 15".
I didn’t have a scale on it yesterday, but next time I use the tiller tree, I’ll get my scale on it!
Thanks.
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Looks pretty good from here. Check it with a straight edge. As to the string question. When you have it drawing to a point where the tip travel would have it at brace height, get the proper length string on it. If it’s dry, and if the tiller is good, set shouldn’t be an issue. Not caused by the shorter string length anyway. Missing your target weight will be with a long string for too long. Limbs will bend a little differently with a short string. 7 inches is a bunch. Not saying it’s too much as some may need it, but I would start long enough to clear your feathers and see how it shoots. If it shoots well at say 6 inches, that’s where I would leave it.
Right on! I’ll try it at 6”.
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@ Thunderlizard
"Should I just get the string as short as possible without any tension on the bow?
Thanks!"
Yes...
Get a string that will only just slip onto the nocks... it will probably hang down 6" once you hook the scale on it.
Del
(I think you were overthinking it ;) )
Gotcha! I like your ring trick - I need to make myself a proper long string and try that out. The bow is 70” tip to tip, and I made a string that’s about 67” the other day.
My Flemish twist jig is consistently making strings a few inches too short. For example, had my jig set up to make a string for a 72” bow, and the string was still a bit short for the 70” bow. Digression there, but time to make a new jig.
Thanks for all the help!
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I think learning to use the string jig takes some time. The number and length of the twists you put in strings will probably be different to everyone else. If your jig is adjustable just write the real length beside the movable pin. And drill a new hole. I put a strip of masking tape on mine and wrote the length of each string beside the pin I used. After a dozen or so strings the actual length started to match what I had written on the tape. Remember that when you first take it off the jig you have to stretch it. I've had mine stretch out 2". Stretch is maybe not the right word because I use FF and it doesn't stretch. Settle might be a better word. I use a cargo strap between two posts to put a bunch of tension on the string. Pull it up as tight as you can and let it sit for an hour or so. I think the twists settle into their happy angle and all the wax squeezes out.
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I make continuous loop stings, much easier to get right length first time.
Del
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You're right you know. :D I don't know why I settled on Flemish strings. All that twisting is hard on my hands and for no advantage. Maybe I'll switch.
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You're right you know. :D I don't know why I settled on Flemish strings. All that twisting is hard on my hands and for no advantage. Maybe I'll switch.
The other advantage is the loops are served and thus harder wearing.
Del
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But the jig is bigger than the Flemish jig ;D
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I find continuous loop string noisier so I will continue making flemish. Other thing I dont bother measuring string length when I make a string and dont even bother with the shorter strings during the process, If I have a 64" longbow I make it 3" shorter, adjust the last Loop to get my length. Then I cut off the excess with the scissors. I'm wasting maybe 35" of string . I use 14 strands.
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...and you still have to add the serving. Which is worst, twisting or wrapping?
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+1 on DC's post.
Not sure what kind of jig you are using, but you can adjust the length of string that you wrap over for the loop and dial it in that way. So if measuring 8" from the end and your string is coming out too long, try 8.25" on your next one. Like has been mentioned, there's some trial and error, but you should be able to get real close after making a few. Keep notes on what you try.
And those ones that don't come out right, you can keep them for tillering strings. I have about 10 or so at various lengths to use for tillering.
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Lol looking at your setup it makes me think it’s in my back yard. Mine is on my fence just like that. Good looking bow.
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I have mu jig marked for different string material. 10 strands fast flight comes out 1" shorter than length marked on jig. Linen I use the marks for the bow length and the string comes out 3" shorter.