Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dbeane on February 22, 2019, 09:02:09 am
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Hi everybody- I'm an aspiring bowyer from Massachusetts and a long time lurker here. Three years ago I was fortunate enough to be able to attend one of Carson's workshops at Echo Archery; since then I've been learning some hard lessons on my own. I haven't found much in the way of a bowmaking community around here, but then, I don't get out much so maybe that's my fault; would love to hear from anyone in the Northeast, especially if they have a line on materials.
I've just about reached the point where I can be reasonably sure when I start a bow that I'm going to finish with something I can shoot rather than firewood, but you never know- some pieces of wood just don't want to be bows. Working on no-set tillering, with very limited success.
Pictured below is bow #16. Stats:
- 55" T2T
- Hickory, heat treated and backed with rawhide
- 62# @ 28"
- Hollow cross-section limbs, 2" wide through 75% of the length, narrowing to 3/8" at the tip
- Buffalo Horn overlays
- Leather grip with cork shelf
- Shellac
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congrats on the nice bow! 28" is a lot to ask from a piece of hickory that long...if it was 10" longer you would have way less set. Here in the humid south I have trouble with it even when it's longer. You have obviously payed attention and did a great job on that belly too. Have fun!
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She looks good. A few observations...you could get more bending in towards the fades. The fades are the transition between the working limb and the rigid handle so bring the bend back to the fades. Also, hickory shouldn't need a rawhide backing. It is plenty strong in tension...unless you seriously violated the back. And one more thing, you have taken on a complex limb design with the concave belly.
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I think I can see some compression fractures in that belly? I sure hope not. The tiller is very close with the exception Pat mentioned. You mentioned a 28" draw, but your pic better depicts 25-26" which would be better suited for that short length you have. All in all, not bad at all sir.
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Pearl Drums said everything I was thinking. Really word for word. All in all a pretty nice bow. If you could've gotten the area right out of the fade to bend just a tad it would really help with your draw length and probably taken less set. You don't want to overdo it there, but a little bend out of the fades makes a big difference in the draw length.
Bjrogg
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Thanks to all for the feedback!
Lets see:
if it was 10" longer you would have way less set.
All I'll say is that #16 started out 62" long and got mysteriously shorter after I had worked on it for a while. Heh.
hickory shouldn't need a rawhide backing. It is plenty strong in tension...unless you seriously violated the back.
I kept the limbs wide and rawhide backed this one because bows 12 and 14 were also hickory from the same stock and they both failed spectacularly. (Should mention that I'm working from 8/4 rough sawn stock and the moisture content is an unknown). I won't rule out having violated the backs; this hickory is fairly close-ringed (see below) and fooled me on a more than one occasion. In any event, practice is penance and penance is good for the soul. Or so I hear. ;D
I think I can see some compression fractures in that belly?
It's possible that what you're seeing is in the finish? Not sure what I did wrong, french polish doesn't usually crack that way.
You mentioned a 28" draw, but your pic better depicts 25-26" which would be better suited for that short length you have.
Totally true - she starts stacking at 26", and I struggle to get more out than that. It's so much easier when it's on the tree...
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Yup, compression fractures, sorry man. Skip the concave belly next time and add 10" to the length. You can bet you will have a winner. You know how to build a bow, that's obvious. Just tweak your recipe a bit.
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Once again Pearl said exactly what I was thinking.
Bjrogg
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Yup, compression fractures, sorry man.
Once again Pearl said exactly what I was thinking.
Bjrogg
Ah, shoot.
They're always perfect until I start making them... the difficulty is in keeping them that way.
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Good eye on the first belly picture Pearly. It appears to be right in the area that Pat was suggesting should work closer to the fades too. You guys are really good. I also agree with Pearly, d.beane, you know what your doing, it just takes a little tweeking on certain designs and wood types. Keep on keeping on my friend, it will all come full circle.
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You probaby got the fractures pulling to 28,,..25 May have worked,....you will get it right on the next one
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Too bad about the fractures, that's a good looking bow.
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ok on a positive note,, if you were to even the tiller out a bit,, and then not draw it so far,, the bow could hold up,, with the fractures not getting worse,,ok its about a 50 50 chance,, but worth a try,, I think,,,wouldnt hurt to try,,
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good looking bow
with a bend starting right at the fades you would have been able to avoid some fractures I guess,
just my 2 cents
b2w
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You guys have given me a lot to think about on the next bow.
Does anyone have a rue of thumb for how much the draw distance should shorten as the overall length of the bow decreases?
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You cant lose if you build your bows with this formula:
draw length x 2 + 10". That's using a nock to nock measurement.
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Got it, thanks Pearly.