Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on June 20, 2018, 12:39:09 pm
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If you decided that a bow limb should be wider because of to much set how do you apply that width? Say you have a 64" pyramid with 1 1/2" limbs that taper to 3/8". If you want to go to 2" limbs but still taper to 3/8" tips you're really not adding a lot of width mid limb. With a parallel limb it's a no-brainer but my bows are usually a bit of each so I'm a bit puzzled. Should I be adding the width just in the area that's taking set?
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I would think in a Pyramid design that the tiller would be more circular so that the mid limb wouldnt be as strained to take much set. I think this is where tillering based on front profile would come in. If your taking too much set mid limb on a pyramid style bow maybe its not bending enough towards the inner limbs. But if your doing all that and its still taking too much set there i would personally decrease the taper instead 3/8 inch would go a little wider. That way you have more material mid limb. I usually make my tips a little over a half inch on my pyramid bows and then just narrow the last 6'' of the tips but only for aesthetic reasons tbh.
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OK I am working on a 69" version now. I was thinking split the difference at mid limb on thickness. But that's a perfect world. I need to clarify myself I think. Increase thickness while decreasing width in a straight pyramid. Say 3/8 at the fades 1/2" mid limb and 5/8 at the tips. Will this alllow for Eiffel tower effect?. Arvin
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D.C. I am building some 21/8 -23/8 wide at the fades to 5/16 at tips. About 29-30 inch limbs . I have made the set at the fades go away. Talking Osage here. They come in heavy. But it's inner limb mass. I want to Eiffel Tower from fades to tips instead of from mid limb. I might be crazy ? Just a dream. Arvin
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I found another Doug Maple in my stash. It's already cut down to 1 3/4 wide so that decision is made for me. That's 1/2" wider than the last one. That should help. I'll leave the limb the same general shape. One thing at a time :)
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i think if you respond top the bow taking set earlier like as soon as you notice you will have better results. Looks for places you can get more wood bending or lower draw weights accordingly. The stave really has a lot more to do with selecting the weight it wants to be than the guy making it.
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I'll try :) i just have this fear of making a bunch of 20# bows ;D
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I'll try :) i just have this fear of making a bunch of 20# bows ;D
Use enough wood and it won't be an issue. Put a hard fast rule on how much set is acceptable, if it starts to approach that too early in the process you drop weight..I don't think 1 3/4 douglas maple is enough for more than 35#, especially if you reflex it.
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I've been working on a design were the middle is a d bow and the limbs are widest at the Apex of the bend and report this style takes very little set
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I'll try :) i just have this fear of making a bunch of 20# bows ;D
Use enough wood and it won't be an issue. Put a hard fast rule on how much set is acceptable, if it starts to approach that too early in the process you drop weight..I don't think 1 3/4 douglas maple is enough for more than 35#, especially if you reflex it.
I was planning 2" or more but those staves aren't dry yet. This one was hiding.