Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: youngbowyer33 on May 29, 2018, 01:48:42 pm
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I've got my ipe board, about 1 1/4" wide, 72" long, about 1" thick at the handle, tapering in thickness to 1/2 at the tips. My hickory is 1/8" thick. I'm aiming for 60-70 lbs @ 28" which is close to my ear draw. I've heard you don't need a lot of ipe to make a bow, so should I try and bring the width down to 1"? I was planning on tapering 16" out from the handle to 1/2", try and get a warbow profile and tiller because I really like how it looks. And for a slight bend in the handle, should I bring the handle thickness down to 3/4" so with the backing it's 7/8"?
How does all that sound? I'm also not sure about the cross section, should it be more round or more flat?
Thanks!
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No more than 1 3/16 wide, 70" ntn. If you go much wider you will end up with very thin ipe.
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I made one one time and ended up giving it to Mudd...seems like it was a hair over 3/4" wide in the center tapering to under 1/4" tips... seems like 68" n-t-n... 55#@28" It was just an experiment with a piece trimmed off a flatbow.
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I made a bunch of these last year with bamboo and hickory or other hardwood backings. For 70# I would go maybe 1 1/16 at the handle. Start off too thick in the center instead of guess at the thickness. 7/8 might be a good place to start. Up to 115# @28" I have been sticking with 70" to 72" long. To qualify as a warbow the belly should be at least slightly rounded, no flat spots. When you tiller pull at the way to 70# on your long string right from the beginning, if it is too strong you can't hurt anything. As for the taper. I used to cut an almost finished taper in the width but now I just refine it buy eye as I go, usually on the belt sander or with a rasp. I end up with the center 12" having almost no taper and then a gradual but progressive taper to the tips.
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Okay I'll bring the width down a bit and keep the thickness where it is for now. What do you find works best for tillering ipe? Farriers rasp, cabinet scraper, belt sander?
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Cabinet scrapers work great with ipe. Rasping pulls out big chunks.
I use the belt sander and scraper from start to finish with ipe.
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I use a scraper for basic wood removal and a rasp to keep the tapers smooth and remove washboard. I have several of them sitting in my room at the shop, ranging from 50# to 110# I will measure them tomorrow if you like when I go over there.
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Badger that would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying the same design with two red oak bows but ipe is completely different
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87# 1.1 w X .875 thick 72" long 50# .9 X .7 110# 1.2X.875
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That is crazy, Steve. It still amazes me how stiff ipe is and how little it requires to make a substantial poundage bow.
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Pearl, I have a white oaked back cherry elb that is 50# and a lot bigger than the 110# ipe. I think it is about 1.25 X 1"
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Thanks, gonna try roughly for in between the 50# and 87#
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Youngbowyer33, as for the rounding, I have to round the bellies not only because it is required by the rules but also to maintain a 5/8 ratio of thickness to width. If the belly was flat it would certainly be a bit thinner.
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Okay. I love the way the rounded bellies on elbs look so I'll be doing that.