Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Julian on April 21, 2018, 08:00:28 am
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So a few noticed my rather steep fades, and I wanted to post a clearer picture,
(https://i.imgur.com/rY09CMR.jpg)
here it is compared to a similar bow I made.
important to note: the bow on the right isnt tillered yet - the limbs are still much thicker than they will be, so I'll be able to feather those fades in somewhat more. It also has wider limbs than the bow on the left, so I can make them less deep as well.
I don't feel like this handle is going to be an issue, but what are your thoughts?
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Those are almost perpendicular :o, I’d feel safer if they were at say, more a 40 degree angle atleast
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Julian,
I would have to see full draw of the tiller or bend at the transition area of your fades before I could comment...Depends a lot on how much they are actually working...
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Julian,
I would have to see full draw of the tiller or bend at the transition area of your fades before I could comment...Depends a lot on how much they are actually working...
I guess I'll post again if it becomes an issue.
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I am by no means a bowyer, but I think the angles are far too abrupt, especially for a glued on riser grip. Smoothing out the tool marks and getting more fade into the limb might help, as well as making the bump on the grip less severe. On the other hand, it's your bow, so do what works for you. If you have a big hand, it may not look so rough. Good luck, and I hope you get it to work!
Hawkdancer
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Julian, I don't think this will be an issue with the added handle block popping off or anything. It looks like enough thickness, so you got that.
But, I'm with the crowd here. The issue with a fade-out that sharp is that the limb goes from completely stiff to bendy all at once. This concentrates forces at that stress point. Even if the limb is bending less 1/2" out from the handle than it is 2" from the handle, the highest strain is still there at 1/2".
Let me put it another way. I take x-rays for a living, ok? Bulged and ruptured vertebral disks from lifting injuries are almost entirely confined to the lumbar spine's 4th/5th and 5th/1st sacral vertebral spaces.
Why? Because you bend down to lift, and with the weight in front of you it's hard not to bend your back. The strain of lifting transfers down the lower back until it arrives at a spot that cannot bend, which is the sacrum. This creates a fulcrum point, and the LAST thing that could bend (L5/S1 joint space) takes the brunt. That's where the disk blows.
Make sense? Especially with the leverage of the whole limb applied, that area where it bends RIGHT before it goes stiff, is at risk of fretting, breaking, or setting.
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that sounds painful lol so in short longer fades to distribute stress and dont break your back
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Pretty much. Longer is good, but "more gradual" is the real key.
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I'm about the furthest thing you could be from an expert, but for what it's worth I had a red oak board bow with a similar looking handle and got a crack it it pretty early on whilst tillering (was able to save it with glue and new, longer fades, but I wouldn't count on doing that). If you can, I would go with some longer fades, as it's frustrating to waste several hours because of such a simple design issue. What wood is this bow, and what's the limb look like?
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I wouldn't care for them as is, that's just my opinion. How long are the actual fades? I cant tell by the side view. Do you have a front view pic?
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True, as Pearl says, a front view pic is vital to knowing how to fix them, unless the limbs are only as wide s the handle.
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Just, way more like this.
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It's maple.
I didn't do this deliberately, I just got hasty when I roughed out and marked the fades with whatever I had to hand which happened to be a roll of tape with not a big enough radius.
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(https://i.imgur.com/xWyPuA3.jpg)
Front profile.
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The front profile looks good, but why are there tool marks and a tear out in the handle area? The rest of the limb looks good.
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You have a problem. Your fades appear to extend well beyond the handle on the front profile, yet the side shows them very short. That means you have an inch or more that is the same thickness as the limb, but much more narrow.
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I have done this when I had a very thin stave to work with. I put down two 1/8" strips first then the rest of the handle. I used the old Urac for glue which was bombproof. The handle on this bow never lifted because I feathered the fades out so gradually.