Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: simk on April 17, 2018, 01:51:56 am
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Hi All
I'm doing my first bendy handle bow and don't know where to place the handle-section. Would it be wrong to shift the handle-section 1" above the center of the bow?
Where is the handle-section usually placed with english longbows?
Thank's for your help @ have a nice day!
Cheers
simk
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I'm also making a bendy handle at the moment. I was pretty sure they were either symmetrical, or the handle should be a bit more towards the bottom limb, like on english longbows.
I'd like to hear others' thoughts though.
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I usually mark center of bow, form there I try to place my middle finger at that mark...That puts me at my hand fulcrum, centered...It depends on your style of grip...I don't shoot heel down or high wrist either, kind of in the middle of the palm...Your grip style will depict the outcome...That usually puts my arrow .5 above center...Hope this helps...Your style may vary...
Don
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I'm working one myself and I placed it center, but its only my third one.
Thanks Don I saved your pic as a reference for correct tiller.
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How wide is that bow? Looks cool.
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2" above and below the middle of the bow.
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Nice
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2" above the center of the bow and 2" below. But then I shoot the bow about an inch above center.
There's no wrong or right, simk, just personal preference.
Jawge
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For a bendy handle bow I have the arrow pass "1 above centre. The Mediterranean release stress is centred around the point between the middle finger and the ring finger around 5/8" to 1" , which coincides to the centre of the bow, if the arrow pass is around 1" above centre. Like Jawge says many methods will work.
I feel that bows with an arrow pass 2" above centre, look like the stress in the limbs is unbalanced. It may not necessarily be the case, but it is my preference and it makes the most theoretical and practical sense to me.
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Thanks a lot for your helping hands...
It seems like in most cases, there are different possibilities, but not one truth.
So I will try to find out, in which position this individual bow shoots best and put the arrowpass there.
So long...cheers
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Carl,
Slightly over 1" wide and .5" at tips...High crown sinew backed 55" long...58@26...I prefer my hand fulcrum centered "my pressure point" on bendy bows...your personal fulcrum depends on you style of grip...These shorter bows are more critical and sensitive to balance...
PS... I removed the videos, I forgot they were a direct link to a possible advertisement...
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Simk,
Play around with your bow and shoot from different grip placements...When you find that magic spot, mark it...
Don
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Simk,
Play around with your bow and shoot from different grip placements...When you find that magic spot, mark it...
Don
How do you know the "Magic Spot"? I can move my hand all over the place and not see much difference.
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DC: I'm not sure but I'd just shoot on a target. If the arrows group too low, I'd shift down with the arrowpass & vice versa. You will have found the sweet spot when the arrows group in correct height. If - from a given handle position - the arrows always hit too low, maybe the upper limb is too strong.
Anybody disagree?
Thanx again all. Cheers
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DC,
I can move my grip up or down as little as a half inch and notice a change in vibration, noise and "most importantly balance"...That is usually done with a tillering string and I do move the nock point accordingly during what some refer to as a shoot in phase...My arrow pass may be located .5" to 1" above the center of the bow...Maybe instead of "Magic" I should have said "Balance"...For me it is very easy to detect a balance issue in these shorter bows...
Don
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What's this "group" people talk about ;D ;D ;D ;D I guess maybe you have to be a decent shot to notice this kind of thing ;D. Would moving your hand up or down minimise string vibration? The bow I'm shooting in now has a noticeable twang. It's just a straight bow. I expect string noise from a recurve but this kind off surprised me. With 4" allowed for a handle in layup it doesn't leave to much room to move your hand.
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Simk,
Play around with your bow and shoot from different grip placements...When you find that magic spot, mark it...
Don
That's one of the nice things about a bend in the handle design. Shoot it from where it feels best!
Otherwise, I do about like you do, Don. I place either my middle finger, or the space between forefinger and middle finger, on the middle of the bow.
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Springbuck,
Good plan man...I usually start my tiller from the center static fulcrum as seen in this pic...Maybe out to 20" or 22"...Then in the hand for the rest of the way...Checking and feeling for balance, this is critical for short limbs...Tiller may not look perfect but balance in hand is..."My balance determines" my arrow pass on each bendy....It's an ending result, not predetermined...Nock adjustment is another factor in the equation...Important for some to remember when moving your shooting hand you also need to have the appropriate nock height to coincide with the testing...
Don
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Don said: "Then in the hand for the rest of the way...Checking and feeling for balance, this is critical for short limbs...Tiller may not look perfect but balance in hand is..."
I just relearned this, in fact. I don't do a lot of BITH bows because of the wood available to me, stuff like elm that I assumed wasn't elastic without being wide. And I hate wide flat handles, so......
But recently I made an elm BITH as a tillering exercise to help teach a beginner. About 1-1/8" wide, almost 1" thick middle, 68" long or so. I was pretty happy because it was taking some, but limited, set and we were headed for a high draw despite me rushing to tiller. But when we started shooting it at partial draw I could really feel that it was way off. The strung profile looked fine, and the drawn profile looked fine, but the top limb felt so stiff that it wanted to rock back in my hand. I wanted a barely positive tiller, and moving my hand down an inch or two wasn't enough.
SO, what I figured out finally, because the top limb had a series of nipple knots and lumpy covered over pins, despite my efforts, there was less wood bending. So, it took a tad more set. Thus, the tiller LOOKED pretty good, but the top limb was BENDING more ONLY due to BEND + SET!
So, I went back, thinned every thick spot I could, and accepted that the tiller looked slightly lopsided, but trusted how it felt at full draw.