Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hawkdancer on April 13, 2018, 10:36:46 pm
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I think I am close to having the limbs match! The outer thirds bend the same, on the right limb, the gap to the white string is about 3/8 greater than the left. If I am using the gizmo correctly, I need to remove wood from the middle third or half of the left limb. The right Limb tillers clear except for a small spot on the outer third. The actual draw right now is about 2", the weight is 43# +-, target weight is 45#. The bow is clamped and level across the handle. The picture is taken from slightly left of dead square on. Comments are welcome, even smart a$$ remarks, if they are constructive! >:D.
https://i.imgur.com/kXTpPfR_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
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Looks too early to tell, to me.
If it was me, I'd go ahead and scrape a bit more off each limb until I was getting 4-6 more inches of limb travel at just below target weight. then look again.
Being cautious is good but at that early stage, its hard to see much of anything.
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Can't tell if the limbs are bending evenly, 'cos they aren't hardly bending... ::)
Is that a low braced string on it as well as the long string? If so, pull on that one, or shorten the long string so that it only just goes onto the bow. You will see more limb movement then, and if it looks even pull it to full weight and take a pic.
Del
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Those outer limbs look like they are starting to bend while the inner limb looks pretty stiff. The actual draw in not 2" even though your limbs are only moving 2". Be real careful you don't make it too whip ended. I would stay away from those out limbs.
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That handle looks worrisome. Is this a stave or glued on riser?
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The white string is just a marker. It is a stave, the handle and fades are still rough. I'll scrape some, shorten the long string and see what happen without going over target weight. Hope to get some work done on it yet this afternoon! I will continue this thread! Thanks for the ctriques.
Hawkdancer
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Still, establish your fade transition shape before you start bending. Not the width but the scooped slope.
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Thanks, Pat, I'll get that done next. Might help the bend?. Took a few scrapes, still pulling about 43#.
Hawkdancer
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I am by no means an expert but I find it easier for me to start my bend right at the fades and work outward until I've reached my draw length. Starting from the outer part first leads me toward a more whip ended tiller. Not necessarily bad but I prefer an eliptical shape to a bow. This also helps smooth the fade transition right away. Good luck!
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I am by no means an expert but I find it easier for me to start my bend right at the fades and work outward until I've reached my draw length. Starting from the outer part first leads me toward a more whip ended tiller. Not necessarily bad but I prefer an eliptical shape to a bow. This also helps smooth the fade transition right away. Good luck!
And that's why your bow bends too much there.
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Pat that's only one bow. I've made dozens brokens hundreds perhaps. Different radius designs, full to compass etc. Would you not agree that this bow needs to bend more towards the fades?
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Sure, just not bend there first. Get the part where the majority of bending takes place moving evenly first and then ease that bend back to the fades
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I see. That would lend to hinging a bow quicker it seems. If one were to designate the workload area and the start the bend from the fade to just flex at desired weight while steadily transitioning into the desired major workload area he could effectively make his first bow stand up to many. I hope this doesn't come off wrong I don't wish to argue just pick your brain as to why things are better one-way than another is all
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No, the opposite is true. Way easier to hinge the near fade area when the rest of the limb is still a stiff lever.
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I see. This stuff is so awesome. It leads me to another topic. Can't wait to see this bow finished!
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Yellar, Me too! :BB!
The right limb seems to be ok, getting the left limb to match is a challenge. The gizmo says the second quarter from the left tip is still stiff, I.e. Taking pencil marks, did a bit of scraping and weight went up to near 45#, even after flexing. Had a bit of wind (45-50 mph+) blow down my fence and had to divert my energy today. I think I can get it to tiller clean tomorrow and get another notch on the tree and keep 45#. It is still stiff on the floor tiller, as well. Still have to do some work on the handle, but got the fades looking a bit more like fades than lumps. Lol! Still have to rebuild the darn fence, too!
Hawkdancer
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Still, establish your fade transition shape before you start bending. Not the width but the scooped slope.
+1 Totally agree. Fades are important no matter how much, or where, the limb is bending.
Hawkdancer, you can see that your RT limb is bending more than the left, can't you?
Also, your pictures are at an angle to the tree. The right limb tip is farther away than the left limb tip. It's pretty hard to see that way.
I disagree on the other point. We just had a long thread about it. I LOVE making fades bend first. It adds predictability, it's easier for me to see, and has increased my success on finishing bows how I want them, a TON. Specifically, it helps by NOT letting me hinge my bows at the fades.
The trick is this. Simply do NOT pull past draw weight. Work the whole limb evenly LOOKING for that first slight bend (maybe 2" of tip travel). Catch one up to the other as soon as you see it, and then STAY OUT OF THAT AREA until the rest of the limb is taking shape.
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I agree totally springbuck. I like to make my fades just start to flex just so you can see a gap between the bow back and a flat 2x4. Then catch every thing up to there. If limb width is proportional then same thickness from the fade to tip should bring a full to compass bend almost effortlessly. Leaving an extra ring on the outer limb and tada!! You have a stiff tip. It's just easier for my head