Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Carl Galvin on April 12, 2018, 11:18:41 am
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I dont know if this thing will ever get there, but the gizmo is telling me this is lose to tiller at 24 draw. What next? Brace and continue?
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https://imgur.com/nyzYIUz
Sorry, here is the photo. Thanks!
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I think you are good, although I would brace it even sooner than you.
Because bracing is done when good initial bend is established (which you did) as long string tillering is deceptive. It basically pulls bow at tips and doesn't really bend enough inner thirds of limbs. One can even be satisfied with long string tillering look and then be surprised when at brace bow shows stiff spots at inner parts of limbs. Just because long string couldn't unveil them.
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This was actually on a short brace, about three inches.
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Ok, then proceed at full brace!
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Thanks Man
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I would. Jawge
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Cheers George!. What is this "Jawge" thing you guys always use at the end by the way? Just curious.
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I'm Jawge 'cause that's what my wife calls me. :) Jawge
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Oh LOL, got it.
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Looks lots better Carl.
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Thanks Boed, it does seem like the right limb still needs some more whipping around at the tip
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sorry "BowEd."
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Yep I agree, the limbs look a lot more balanced.
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Carl,
I think I would move that right fade a little and take another look...
Don
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burchett.Donald, can you please explain what you mean? Thanks!
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Carl, see how your fade under the black line is bending...The right fade under the red line is straight...Work this fade a little and that right limb will bend more...It's important to get fades moving also...Looking good so far...Hope this helps...
Don
Excuse my art work...
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Thanks Donald.
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Burchett.Donald,
I see what you're saying about that fade on the right, although I hadn't seen it until you mentioned it. I had seen that the right tip does need some more scraping to come more around, and intended on scraping it, However, I am concerned about scraping the fade as welll because, although it would be for the sake of better tiller, I am now down to 48# at 28" I was really hoping for #50, and now think I would shed a tear if I didn't keep it up to at least 44 or 45. Do you thing I will lose more than two or three pounds if I scrape more on that right fade?
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Yes Carl, moving that fade will cost more than 2 pounds...I know how you feel about coming in under weight...Something to watch on your next round man...You can always try and heat temper after you correct it...That might give you a couple of pounds back maybe...
Don
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I know this probably isn't what you want to hear, but a good tiller will outweigh those couple pounds you are losing. I was in the same boat as you not that long ago, just wanting to reach my target weight and sacrificing tiller to reach my goal. It wasn't until I made a few under weight bows with good tillers that I realized that an underweight bow with a near perfect tiller will blow by heavier bows with imperfect tillers.
I like to use Badger's method of full weight pulling after I get the limbs balanced out. It has helped me reach my target weight with not many surprises.
I would try Donald's suggestion if you are that concerned with the weight. Get the tiller right 1st though. Just my thoughts.
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Time to draw it by hand and someone to take a pic.use the stiff limb as the bottom,you may be surprised!the tiller looks close to me.
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Carl, you can add your Imgur pictures directly into your posts here. click on the little drop down arrow in the top right corner of the Imgur photo. click 'get share links' and then copy the 'BBcodes (Forums)' code. you can then paste that link directly into the text here and the picture will appear for everyone to see.
Like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/o1TkDZE.jpg)
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Thanks Guys for your valuable advice. I will fix that tiller on the right and settle for the 40 lb bow. I guess it makes sense not to forego shootability for the sake of draw weight. And 40 isnt too bad I guess.
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Thanks Weylin, beautiful bow in that photo, by the way.
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You're welcome, and thanks! Good luck on your bow. I would have added something about that but these guys are taking good care of you. I would have been redundant.
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Time to draw it by hand and someone to take a pic.use the stiff limb as the bottom,you may be surprised!the tiller looks close to me.
I might point out that one can only go so far with the tiller tree. How it will look in the hand is sometimes not easy to duplicate on the tree. work out where your knock point is on the string, and where your arrow rest is before making final adjustments. Consider when you want to start shooting it in, maybe avoiding a full draw (few inches short). get some arrow tuning accomplished. don't be in a hurry to call the bow "done". leave some room for final adjustments later.
Weylin does make some sweet stuff (A)
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Sure thing Willie. I appreciate it.
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So to follow up,
I braced the bow at 5 inches after a few more scrapes (still at 45 lbs at 28") and it is shooting amazingly quiet and accurate (I have never been soo accurate even with my samick sage recurve). I didn't full draw, I only drew to about 26", but it is accurate up to 25 yards, which is the most I have tried it out to.
I will try to post a video as soon as I get a helping hand. I know I could have made a better bow with more experience, but I have learned alot from this first bow, and have already ordered another couple of staves. I will post photos a bit later, but off to a hog hunt with my compound tomorrow morning.
Thank you all for all the advice and assistance. It has so far been a pleasure to be a part of this group!
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(http://i.imgur.com/nyzYIUz.jpg) (https://imgur.com/nyzYIUz)
Ok, here she goes at full brace
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sorry, posted the wrong photo.
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(http://i.imgur.com/nyzYIUz.jpg) (https://imgur.com/nyzYIUz)
(http://i.imgur.com/7CbPJ77.jpg) (https://imgur.com/7CbPJ77)
(http://i.imgur.com/7CbPJ77.jpg) (https://imgur.com/7CbPJ77)
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(http://i.imgur.com/XcnlGPy.jpg) (https://imgur.com/XcnlGPy)
(http://i.imgur.com/hUFeuFh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/hUFeuFh)
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Question on tillering:
When assessing the tillering curve, is it more important to go by the belly curve or the back curve?
WA
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I dont know buddy, I am new at this, this is my first make.
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Carl,
Congrats on making a shooter...Would like to see you full draw it in hand...
Don
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I have to wait for the Wife to get back home from work this evening, so that I can get her to take a photo. Thanks man! I got lucky. But this can get addictive. Just won a bid for an already seasoned osage stave, and bidding on another hickory stave. I know starting with board bows would have been cheaper, but I just like the idea of the rawer piece of wood.
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I know Osage is different to work on and that you have to chase that ring, but I have a smaller, 51 inch osage stave that I bought just over a year ago, when I bought the hickory one in the photos. I think I will practice chasing the ring on that one and try and make my son a kid's bow, before I work on the other osage stave.