Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Julian on March 20, 2018, 10:50:16 pm
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I have a shorter piece of maple that I got along with my 67" board that I was going to carve some spoons from, but I was thinking I could maybe get a bow out of it with a splice. Would this be long enough?
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Two billets 33 inches that's 66, about two inches for the splice = 64 inch bow. I think that would work. Not sure how long that splice is supposed to be but I think you would have plenty for a 62-64 inch bow .
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Two billets 33 inches that's 66, about two inches for the splice = 64 inch bow. I think that would work. Not sure how long that splice is supposed to be but I think you would have plenty for a 62-64 inch bow .
I thought most splices were 4-5"
I'll give it a go either way.
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It depends on a few factors.
1. How long a draw
2. How heavy a draw
3. What splice design
3 1/2. What bow design
4. Never do a bendy handle with a splice.
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It depends on a few factors.
1. How long a draw
2. How heavy a draw
3. What splice design
3 1/2. What bow design
4. Never do a bendy handle with a splice.
27", my bows usually come out around 40# to 50#, I'd do a Z splice with a handle piece glued on, American longbow design.
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Id do a minimum 4 inch z splice with a belly cap glued on to cover the entire splice, taking your bow to a length of 58 inches. These billets are not enough for a long bow. But will make a killer recurve with sharp little hooks at the end.
The second answer id give is to do a take down. Perfect situation for that.
Last answer is to send em to me. I love billets.
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A 4" splice only loses 4" overall, due to 4" overlap (not 4" off each limb)
So two 33" billets gives 66-4 which is 62"
Even if you allow an extra inch for fitting and fiddling that's 61" which is enough.
Del
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A 4" splice only loses 4" overall, due to 4" overlap (not 4" off each limb)
So two 33" billets gives 66-4 which is 62"
Even if you allow an extra inch for fitting and fiddling that's 61" which is enough.
Del
I was thinking 4 inches cut into each billet. When the two halves slide into each other, its still a 4 inch splice.
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If you're not comfortable splicing a 61" bow you could always make/buy a metal coupling and turn it into a takedown.
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A 4" splice only loses 4" overall, due to 4" overlap (not 4" off each limb)
So two 33" billets gives 66-4 which is 62"
Even if you allow an extra inch for fitting and fiddling that's 61" which is enough.
Del
I was thinking 4 inches cut into each billet. When the two halves slide into each other, its still a 4 inch splice.
Yeah, I did have to think about it a bit... I was sat there sliding my fingers into eachother ::)
You can keep one hand still and the other hand slides in, the don't both have to slide in a finger's length... I still had to try it again ;D
Del
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I always make my splices 3 1/2" long so the 4" handle leather will cover them, I have made 3" splices when I had short billets. I always glue on another piece of wood the length of the handle and part of the fades on the back of the bow to fill out the handle and provide more reinforcement to the splice.
I have probably spliced around 100 bows together from billets with no failures.
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You can make a 2" tapered finger joint which is as strong as a 4" Z splice, stronger when you factor in the amount of the splice removed when shaping the handle. That would give you a 64" bow
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A 4" splice only loses 4" overall, due to 4" overlap (not 4" off each limb)
So two 33" billets gives 66-4 which is 62"
Even if you allow an extra inch for fitting and fiddling that's 61" which is enough.
Del
I was thinking 4 inches cut into each billet. When the two halves slide into each other, its still a 4 inch splice.
Yeah, I did have to think about it a bit... I was sat there sliding my fingers into eachother ::)
You can keep one hand still and the other hand slides in, the don't both have to slide in a finger's length... I still had to try it again ;D
Del
I fight with that every time, just can't seem to wrap my head around it. Always wind up with the two billets on the bench, sliding them back and forth.
You can always splice on tips. Make up tight little recurves and "V" joint them on the ends. It works great.
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You can make a 2" tapered finger joint which is as strong as a 4" Z splice, stronger when you factor in the amount of the splice removed when shaping the handle. That would give you a 64" bow
Intriguing. Do you mean a joint that looks like "WW"?
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I used a butterfly joint on my last one. I put a plain scarf joint in it and glued it, then added a 4 inch butterfly joint, which only extends two inches into each piece. You lose no length, I guarantee ya its as strong as any z,w or whatever joint.
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I'm with you pnwarcher. I'm confused with the terminology. I don't understand what a tapered finger joint is. Google just shows what I would consider a box joint.
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Finger joint, box joint same thing depending on who you ask. If they are triangular in shape I call the finger joints, if they are squared I call it a box joint. Finger joint, triangular, would be better for billets in my opinion. Its the same joint they use on that pre primed trim you get in the box stores.
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As you can see, there a re a lot of different ways to approach this, depending on your skills, tools, and general approach. Heck, you COULD rough out the limbs, then lash them both to a thick stick for a handle.
If the splice has to hold the whole thing, then, I say make it a bit longer (3-4") leave that handle thick as you can, etc.. But, Marc is right too; the more extensive and well-cut the splice the shorter it can be. A fishtail is good, a Z-splice is better, and a W splice even better, but by then I'm running out of room.
Socketing into a length of pipe costs you almost no length, although I like to make a slight scarf cut on each so they settle together and don't rotate.
if your handle section is kind of long and you plan on adding a riser block and overlays, you still need a good splice, but it can often be shorter or just a diagonal slash running side to side, then cover.
If you back it, lots of options open up.
One thing that DIDN'T work for me..... I often do simple front to back scarfs. These need to be pretty long. I like 4", and the fades need to be well outside where the splice ends, and the splice needs to be glued and wrapped like mad, tightly with small string or wire so you get a lot of rotations and it all stays really snug. If I make the splice short, or tried to glue on a thickened for the handle, I can't get that riser to stay put no matter how I glue or wrap it. The short splice allows for too much shift, and a tiny flex through the handle works the whole thing apart. Just mentioned it because you said it was a board.