Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Nomis on January 23, 2018, 03:54:48 pm
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Here is the layout that I have decided on.
Wood: Hickory
Length 66" nock to nock
Handle 4" long, 1" wide, 1 3/4" thick
2" long fades, 2" wide limbs, 1/2 wide tips
Backed with rawhide (hide glue)
was thinking 3/4" for limb thickness
Three questions:
1. Should I make the bow 66" or 68" ntn?
2. Was planning on giving the bow back set. Good idea?
3. Wanted an arrow shelf. should I glue one on, or is it possible to cut one in very shallow?
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What is your draw length?
I am glad you want to make a bow.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
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Right around 28" I checked out your layout design btw Jawge
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Hickory can handle shorter. 64” ntn would be ok. Being your first bow, go 66” ntn for insurance. Also could narrow to 1 3/4 width if you like, especially if your looking at 50# or less. If Going heavier then keep the 2”. Hickory is pretty durable, is it a stave or board bow.
I’ve found hickory to like a good heat treat on the belly. What poundage and profile are you thinking? I’m guessing a pyramid or American flatbow from what you mentioned so far.
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American flatbow. Around 55#. Was planning on having the 2" limbs taper at mid length to the tips.
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American flatbow. Around 55#. Was planning on having the 2" limbs taper at mid length to the tips.
Sounds pretty good.
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I will be using a stave
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I will be starting my first stave soon, keep us (me) posted. Good luck and good shooting.
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Sounds like 68" is a good starting length for your first. Jawge
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I think you have a good plan in place.
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Is 3/4" good for the limb thickness?
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I would start there for your first bow. then start scraping until you get it floor tillered.
If your good with tools, 3/4 at fades to 1/2 or 5/8 at the tip would be a reasonable taper. Its hard to put wood back on though.
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Those thickness numbers are pretty close to what I start with. With black locust I nock the numbers down about 1/8” in thicknes from those. I personally use my farriers rasp to drop weight and even the tiller until I get the bow braced. For me it’s easier to keep the belly flat and clean of washboards by using rasps and large files for the heavy tillering. Then I swap to scraping once I’ve reached brace. But I’ve built a few and have a good grasp on how much to remove and how much my methods will take with each pass. Though on new designs and new woods, I’ll slow down so I can keep a better eye on what’s going on.
Kyle
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One thing I was always confused by. If someone says to make a 68" bow, is that total length or nock to nock?
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Most guys will say 68 t2t (tip2tip) or n2n (nock 2 nock) I believe just 68 would imply t2t.
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If the back has a few bug holes, will rawhide backing be sufficient to keep it from breaking?
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Or would sinew be better?
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Hi Nomis. Here's what id do( in this order) if I had a stave with bug holes.
1) See if I could lay out bow design around holes so there would be none in the finished product. Even if that means I would need to modify my design.
2) Chase a ring below all damaged wood and use that new growth ring as my back. Even if I have some ring violations I would fell better backing them then I would an insect hole.
3) Look for a different piece of wood.(this here very well could be #1)
The problem with borer holes is not only the spot where they enter but what happens after they decide to "have a look around". There is no telling how much wood 3 rings inside is missing. It would stink if you were on your last few scrapes tillering the belly only to find you discovered where that insect has been feeding for the last 2 months. A pin hole from a powder post beetle can turn into much more. Also water may have entered the hole and there maybe even more wood damaged by fungus or rot.
I understand your question is what would be better. However I think you should look at it as how can I avoid this damage. I'd much rather see a future post from you showing off your 1st self bow( I like pictures :) ) , than you spend a lot of time and effort on a failed attempt because of some unseen damage.
Regardless on the direction you go from here.... Good luck! :BB
Mike
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longer will be better for first bow.
+ 1 on the "bug hole advice."
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My first bow was a hickory bow from a stave. It had some bug tunnels on the back. I ignored them I shot the bow for several years with no ill effect and then it finally lifted a splinter at one of the holes. If it was me, I would find a better stave. A hickory stave with a flawless back that is well made will last a looong time. Why settle for less?
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Thank you all for the help :)
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I wasn't sure how good the stave was going to be so I consider this to be a practice stave. If I can get a decent bow out of it great. If not I will learn as much as I can about chasing rings, bow design, etc.