Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Strichev on October 01, 2017, 11:28:13 am
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In the past I was tremendously disappointed by the way a nice straight ash log split into many useful (and as many useless) staves when I used wedges to split it. That's why I decided to use a froe this time - and it seems to work wonders. No more runoffs as one can split the wood in a very controlled manner, well, at least compared to the aforementioned wedge method.
Anyway, I've been wondering whether anyone else uses a froe plus brake and if so, is there is some advice or a nifty trick to make the whole thing even better?
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I think most of the trick is reading the longitudal grain correctly before splitting,but you may have something there using a froe.Good idea.
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A froe won't work on the logs that I split.
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A froe won't work on the logs that I split.
Why not? :) I guess the logs need to be at least somewhat straight for the froe to work, that's true.
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Because I split osage logs up to 24" diameter. I use a lot of steel wedges. It might work good on straight grained white woods but I don't split many of those.
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Because I split osage logs up to 24" diameter.
I guess if you had a brake that could handle the stress of trying to bend a the log, you could direct the split.
two stumps and a comealong or winch? Yarding a longer log to the brake would help.
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I have a froe I use occasionally for difficult staves that need reducing. It makes it easy to control the the direction of the split sometimes.
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I have assisted guys with splitting that were using a froe, it did seem to work well.
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Yep. Used froe on a few logs and it worked pretty well. I haven't ran into one that didn't work well with it yet, but also have a small sample size.
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I have used a froe, it can work well depending on the wood, and how straight, and how dry it is. I don't use it often enough and often forget which side you are supposed to stress to redirect the split. I end up using wedges most of the time to break a log down.