Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: justsomedude on February 25, 2017, 04:06:03 pm

Title: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: justsomedude on February 25, 2017, 04:06:03 pm
Once you see the wood give in to bending, how long do you need to keep it hot?
I'm doing some lateral bending and prop twist using weights. I can see the weights sag as the temp gets up.
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: Dances with squirrels on February 25, 2017, 04:22:59 pm
Depends. I do it like this...

determine how far it needs moved,

add the weight,

take a measurement to the floor, bench, ceiling, etc for a starting point.

prop, stand, hang the tape measure in place so I can watch/gauge the limb's movement as I heat it and the weight and heat affects movement.

allow it to move 5% farther for springback

cool

remove weight and check

To more specifically answer your question.... once you see the movement you need, including springback, no more heat need be applied.



Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: justsomedude on February 25, 2017, 04:38:06 pm
Got it. I am watching the Gary Davis DVD. He steams it for 2 hours in a stove pipe and then takes it out and clamps it. I plan to build myself a slight refer form soon.
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: Del the cat on February 26, 2017, 03:34:14 am
BIG difference between time needed for steam and dry heat to penetrate.
Steam is 100C dry heat is about 200C
If used the 'magic brick' pulling down on a limb as it's being heated and seen the wood start to move in less than 5 minutes with dry heat, where steam would have needed at least 30mins.
Del
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: Dances with squirrels on February 26, 2017, 08:04:11 am
If the blank's limb areas are less than an inch thick, one hour in the steamer is generally enough. The only time I left it in there for two hours is when I went in the house and forgot about it :^)
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: bjrogg on February 26, 2017, 08:49:25 am
I usually use dry for smaller corrections and steam for bigger bends. Steam works great but make sure you have everything ready to clamp down. Once you remove from steam you have limited time before it cools and sometimes it's hard to have enough hands. Also make sure you don't run out of water, the longer you steam the more water you need. If you have to add some you end up starting over.
Bjrogg
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: George Tsoukalas on February 26, 2017, 09:04:55 am
Here's how I move propellor twists.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/fixtwist.html
Jawge
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: bushboy on February 26, 2017, 09:42:52 am
I swear by Marc's localized steam method!from corrections,recurves ect!
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: willie on February 26, 2017, 03:38:31 pm
tried some dry heat recently for making adjustments, and thought it might be a good idea to preheat the whole limb area some before hitting it with the gun. Put it over the wood stove top for a while, and it seemed to lessen the time needed with the gun, but I got concerned about how warm or dried out the back was getting (I worked the gun from the belly side).

Anyone ever use steam to preheat and then use the heat gun to raise the temps more?

Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: DC on February 26, 2017, 04:13:32 pm
Not so much for pre heating but I steam bend and then "lock in" the bend with dry heat. I have no idea what's actually happening in there.
Title: Re: Removing bends with dry heat
Post by: Stick Bender on February 26, 2017, 04:19:13 pm
I have been wrapping my stave in a electric blanket and bring the wood up to 130 F for a couple hours before using the heat gun works out well for me less heat gun time .