Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on January 23, 2017, 02:35:39 pm
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I wanted to make a recurve with sharp hooks. I'm using OS and I tried bending solid pieces with no luck so I kerfed it, steamed it and put in inserts. I may have done it too soon :(. Now I'm floor tillering(not to brace yet) and It appears that I'm running out of wood at the end of the inserts. How thin can the belly side piece get? I can go Molle if need be. I could side tiller, OS will take a pretty thick limb but I'm concerned that the limb might twist if I narrow it too much. Do I have any other options?
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Glue your insert in, and it's ok if it's exposed, it may not look to good but it will still function.
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It's already glued up.
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I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Are you talking about thickness or width? I don't see issues with either.
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Because I'm only at floor tiller I'm going to have to thin the limbs quite a bit more. I was worried about running out of wood where the inserts are. Bryce said that's not a big deal except for appearance so I can just continue on. If I'm concerned about appearance and want to keep the insert centred (more or less) and go the Molle route can the levers have that much recurve in them?
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I wouldn't want anymore removed from that area anyhow. Leave it be and just blend that in. A molly curve with super narrow tips would be an alignment nightmare. Its been done.......but....
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Are you trying to do a working recurve? If so, you are way too thick. Change to a static.
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No, It was always static. I like the tips as light as possible though.
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Just leave it static which you should be doing anyway with a really sharp curve and an insert. You can reduce it so that your insert is practically just a belly overlay. Essentially your curve not any different from a thinner curved piece that is built back up.
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What Pearl said. I all the time have to make things super thin to bend them, then just slap an overlay on it and go, to stiffen it back up. So, the glue joints aren't an issue, and if you leave the recurves non bending, you have plenty.
The one thing you don't want is for the bend of the limb to suddenly stop and abruptly become static for the recurve RIGHT where the kerf starts. If you force it to bend there, you might have trouble. Otherwise, no.
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Thin those tips to a molly curve and add a little bridge to hold the string on........wow sounds like something I'd do or try...... :)
DBar
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I would go static.
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you have extra wood that can be thinned down above and below the kerf insert....even if you leave a 1/16" either side of the insert thats no problem...I have done that, leaving only 1/16" of belly wood beneath the joint. it wasnt a problem
dave
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you have extra wood that can be thinned down above and below the kerf insert....even if you leave a 1/16" either side of the insert thats no problem...I have done that, leaving only 1/16" of belly wood beneath the joint. it wasnt a problem
dave
It just occurred to me that you were recommending removing wood from the back of the recurves. Is this safe with statics?
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No. Never the back.
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Trapping the back of recurves is a good idea but as noted actually reducing thickness isn't.
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Glue your insert in, and it's ok if it's exposed, it may not look to good but it will still function.
Agreed