Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on November 26, 2016, 10:13:20 am
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Hi Fellas finaly got some free time for winter bow work so Im working on ruffing out this 69 in. Strait limb static tiped osage bow but as you can see in the pic the left limb has some deflex in the outer limb & where the fade area will be Im leaving the fade natural but would like to straiten the deflex out of the static tip area when ruffed down it will be aprox. 1/2 in. Thick so my question is what Max thickness do you feel comfortable with using dry heat ? This stave should be well dry.
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3rd bow down on the left side right?A little deflex about 8" from tip?That's a petty easy fix Ritch.Not a whole lot of bending to do there.Just a little tweaking I'd call it.I think you could take that down to 1/2" thick.Bend and match it to the other limb before tillering or go from there and add more reflex to each limb before tillering.Nice ever increasing reflex out to the tips from the fades matching each limb or whatever your plans are for your bow.Nice looking piece of osage.
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Ok thanks Ed yep 3rd one down I wasn't sure about using dry heat on 1/2 thick limb Im just trying to match the other limb ,should give me a little over 2 in. Of reflex just trying to mimic one of your rocket launchers Bud lol.
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Ha Ha Ha.I'm shooting heavy weight scuds most times.
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If you get the bow to floor tiller or even beyond, it won't take much heat to get what you need
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You can use dry-heat on any thickness you want to but it does depend on exactly what you want to do with that dry-heat. If you want to do some heat-treating then thicker wood, anything over 3/4" thick, can give you problems even if the wood is very dry