Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on November 13, 2016, 06:49:33 pm
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I've been thinking too much today ;). I've got a couple of ideas/theories I would like to check out but they revolve around taking measurements of a bow at or near full draw. If a bow is 40#@28" do you think it would be prudent to hold it at, say, 20" for 3-5 minutes?
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Sure, for testing purposes.
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I guess for me it would be a question of...
What's more important, the test or the bow? :)
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I would use an old bow but I want to compare a lot of bows.
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no I dont think its a good idea,, but if you need to do it,,,that would be up to you,, it may cause more or less damage than I think, I have not tried that,, and dont need to find out,, :)
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I don't understand???
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I've been thinking too much today ;). I've got a couple of ideas/theories
I have been known to suffer from that affliction also....
just out of curiosity, what are you trying to test? I have found ways to make measurements more quickly on my tillering tree
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I'm with Willie, Why? ???
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yes if you want our permission, you will have to tell us why :)
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OK I'll try, but I am expecting a bunch of "who cares" and whatnots. I've always thought that the string offset at the arrow pass plays an important part of spining arrows to match the bow. But it was just about impossible to tell where the string line crossed the handle at the arrow pass. After all you can move the string back and forth by just rotating the bow a bit. By changing the angle you look at it you can make any bow look like it has good string alignment. I think you can get close by hanging the braced bow from the string nock and then hanging a plumb bob from the string. Where the bob touches the handle is close to where the string actually crosses the handle. I thought that if I strung a piece of elastic stretched between the "Y" of the loops of the string and then drew the bow to full draw. Now if I sight from the bowstring nock across the elastic to where my sightline hits the handle that will be where the string actually crosses the handle. Measuring from this mark to the arrow pass will be the actual offset.
Well, I tried to explain. Hopefully you can understand even though most of you won't give a ship.
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If I read your last post correctly, you are trying to compare the degree of "center shot" and how it relates to spine?
As you point out, measurements taken at brace height do not seem have much point of reference.
Have you tried to nock two arrows on a braced bow, one placed on the rest, and the other on the opposite side from the rest, get a visual idea of the angular offsets?
Maybe even a slow (partial) draw and relax motion to see relative movements?
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If I read your last post correctly, you are trying to compare the degree of "center shot" and how it relates to spine?
Yes
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Have you tried to nock two arrows on a braced bow, one placed on the rest, and the other on the opposite side from the rest, get a visual idea of the angular offsets?
Maybe even a slow (partial) draw and relax motion to see relative movements?
No, but I will :D
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DC....I don't really totally understand your test there by holding a bow at a 20" draw to see for string alignment.I must be missing your point.
A few things involved with getting the right arrow for the right bow here besides where the arrow passes across the handle.To me it only matters where the arrow is at brace leaving the string.The most important part to me for finding the right spine arrow is the poundage of the bow and the degree of stiffness of the string and how hard the bow comes home to brace after shooting too.The harder it comes home/the stiffer the string the stiffer the spine needed in my experience.
Balancing the braced bow with one tip on the floor holding the other tip loosely to balance.Sighting down the string to make sure each tip has the string running down the tips or recurves or straight limbed bow, where the string goes across the handle that's it.Your eye can only go one place.If it's off the arrow pass 3/16" it is a true centershot.If not the arrows' spine needs to be softer to get around the handle to hit where you are looking.That can be manipulated by canting the bow to a degree too and that will make the windage a non factor also.A centershot is more forgiving and can take a stiffer shaft in my experience shootng either way.Canted or not canted.
That's my understanding of it and I'm sure yours too.Like I said I may have missed the point of your question though.
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This is too scientific for me.
As far as leaving a bow pulled to 20" for 5 minutes-if you are at your target weight and the bow is tillered perfectly I've read where this practice can be used to speed up the 'breaking in' process, which will also give the bow any permanent set which is to come.
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DC, "I've always thought that the string offset at the arrow pass plays an important part of spining arrows to match the bow. "
Absolutely
Willie, "Have you tried to nock two arrows on a braced bow, one placed on the rest, and the other on the opposite side from the rest, get a visual idea of the angular offsets?"
That's the way I do it.
But what's the difference? The proof is in how the bow shoots the arrow. I just go out with arrows of a couple of different spines and see how they fly.
I must be missing something.
Jawge
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I can't think of a way to explain any better. I need pictures, but I can't think how to take them. My hands would be busy and my head would be in the way :D I'll work on it.
Jawge- I knew someone would say "the proof is in the pudding" or some such thing but I'm one of those people that just isn't satisfied with results. Maybe it's because I'm never happy with my results. I have to know the "why". To me it's like cheating on an exam, the results are good but you don't learn anything.
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DC,, like George said, you can test it by sight, ,or you can shoot the bow and see how it shoots,,
a bow that has the arrow pass at a reasonable angle,, will shoot quitely and a wide range of spine,,
if the bow has character,, it is difficult to see how the string is lining up,, but the bow will shoot well or not,,
like when you flip a bow upside down and shoot the other limb up,, sometimes it improves if the string alignment is better,,,, if you brace to bow very low ,, you can usually see if the arrow angle is ok or not,,
sometimes the arrow pass may need a bit of fine tuning, and you may need to take off more wood to get the bow to shoot like you want,, the better your release ,, and with the right arrow,,, the less critical this becomes,, you can see where the string is ligned up if you hold it by the string and then sight down it,, but the way it appears, it not always the way the bow is gonna shoot,, sometimes the limbs align differently as they are pulled to full draw,, so really in the end,, you just have to shoot the bow and fine tune it,,
with experice you can tell if the string alignment is ok after the first few shots,, if you are having to go way down in spine,, your arrow pass is probably not quite right,, ,, once I get a bow shooting pretty good,, the way it looks is very secondary,, its how it is shooting that tells me how to tune,, the braced profile may not look right, but if it is shooting great,, I go with that,,etc etc etc,, ok one more thing,, if you handle is not deep like a flat bow,, the arrow pass can be wider, it the handle is deep then the arrow pass needs to be closer to center,,
ok I crossed post,,, the why is,, the better you have the arrow passed ligned up,, the better the bow will shoot,, thats why,,
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Yes holding the bow up in your hand in a position to shoot normally most times before carving in an arrow pass and before determining which is top or bottom limb for positive tiller I can tell which side should be used for the arrow pass.Along with what I said earlier.Then it's just a matter of shooting it with an arrow of an educated guess of the right spine.