Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on November 11, 2016, 05:33:32 pm
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When I'm tillering a molle can I wait until the bow is pretty much tillered and then reduce the tips until they almost bend or is there some reason to work the tips down as I'm tillering the inner limbs?
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Yeah no problems but i like to start reducing as i get it bending as i can see the finished bends better
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Yeah.x2
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Yeah no problems but i like to start reducing as i get it bending as i can see the finished bends better
Sorry, I'm not following you. When you say "finished bends" what are you referring to? When I said tips I meant the outer limbs, you know, the stiff outer limbs that don't bend.
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How about the flow of the bow, the limbs and levers have to have a harmonious flow to look good, plus most of my levers are recurved(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Mobile%20Uploads/20150221_163438_zpsvwcncltd.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150221_163438_zpsvwcncltd.jpg.html)
Like this bow at this point the levers still need reduced but aren't full thickness
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Bubby, I like the way you have transitioned from limb to lever. It is a smooth transition and not the "axy" looking levers I've seen. I think you can bring the working limb closer to the recurve. The apex of the curve is where most of the tension is so the tips can be reduced more as you get away from the curve. But, I do love the flow of that bow! ;)
DC, you can leave the tips and handle area wide while tillering. Tillering is getting the working limbs bending evenly and together. The handle and tips can be shaped later. I usually wait on the tips until first brace and adjust the string tracking by shaping the tips to go along with the string track.
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Thanks Pat , i posted that to show exactly what i meant when i told dc about the bends or flow i did reduce further
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Bubby, anyway we could see that baby unbraced?
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Bubby and Pat are right.It can take a bit to get that top view width taper to transition more streamlined.I do it with longer fades narrowing and thickening as you go opposed to as Pat said that abrupt transition.It still will show some stiffness on your levers yet.That's really what you still want yet.
Nice looker there Bub.
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"Levers", that's the word I've been looking for :o :o. Thanks Bubby and Pat. My levers are recurved too. My levers(say it three times and I'll remember it) are shorter and more recurved than yours. I just got it braced and am waiting for it to cool off after my first, and I hope my last string alignment. I may have too much recurve but if need be I can flatten it out. Thanks for the help.
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You might just need to align your tips for the string to pass across the handle correctly and down your recurves.The more recurve you put on those tips the more devilish alignment can be.The plane of your limbs to your recurve gets a little more touchy then.Tweaking as I call it.It can take more than one try.It's frustrating once in a while but most times to a good end result.
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Tell me about it. Sometimes I seem to spend more time with a heat gun in my hand than I do with a rasp and scraper.
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Yep.With me I always wait an hour before rebracing too yet to see for alignment.You can with stiff non working parts.On limbs that's even a longer wait for me.Sometimes a whole afternoon is gone before I get it the way I want.I have gotten away with it sooner but I would'nt advise it.
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Someone wanted an unbraced pic this is it or one like it, i like the nonstatic tips on these bows the alignment isn't as critical (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Mobile%20Uploads/20150213_172910_zpszqj4hcdp.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150213_172910_zpszqj4hcdp.jpg.html)
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Thanks Bubby for that pic. I've never been able to make non-static tips work without sinew. I guess it must be the narrowness and thickness. Anyway, thanks again and good luck with that bow DC. :)
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I did a little test here a while ago. You may remember, I rifle drilled a piece of OS so I could put a thermometer in it while doing some heat testing. One thing I noticed was if I put a fan on it while it was cooling a piece of wood that was heated to charring cooled to room temp in a little less than an hour.
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OK back to this. I have the bow shot in, alignment is good. Now I want to thin the tips as much as I can get away with. Do I take a scrape or two off each side of each lever, put it on the tree and check to see if the levers are bending. Draw the bow to check string alignment is still good. Repeat until something starts to move and then stop. Or should I do a few scrapes and then shoot some shots to work it a bit and then continue on. Which normally moves first, leaver bend or string alignment? Or do I maybe want the tips to bend a touch. I've been working under the assumption that a Molle's levers are non bending.
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Unless i bend statics on mine the bigger hooks bend just a scosh. I have been making mine a triangular cross section lately with the point on the belly side
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Unless i bend statics on mine the bigger hooks bend just a scosh. I have been making mine a triangular cross section lately with the point on the belly side
Reminds me of Korean bows..
(https://i.imgur.com/kH9PGLB.jpg)