Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: FilipT on November 06, 2016, 05:50:35 am
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This is my newest project which I work parallel with Hornbeam lever bow. I have to wait some more time before its dry enough for tiller.
Thing that worries me most is that string will not pass through the center of the bow so I have to do really big steaming work on it.
Question is where to steam it to make biggest adjustments I can, but avoid breaking while clamping it in new position?
Here are some pictures.
Profile showing where string would go
(https://s22.postimg.org/92h2lovs1/IMG.jpg)
Belly with 4 mm radius on edges
(https://s22.postimg.org/qib8nduqp/IMG_20161106_105532.jpg)
Back of bow
(https://s22.postimg.org/f4opc6k81/IMG_20161106_105508.jpg)
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A small bend in the middle will make a big difference at the tips, but it's hard to get the amount of movement right.
I'd bend a bit too much using dry heat (with oil), if you need to ease off the bend a little heat will help it relax back.
Del
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So you recommend dry heat, heat gun for example and heating the middle area? Didn't know dry heat works for hazel.
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Like del said a bend in the handle area will move the tips the most. That said i don't see that much of a problem like it sits, string runs good down the limbs and the off set handle gives you a natural centershot. I would be tempted to leave it pretty much as is
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Yeah, but wouldn't it cause turning the bow in the hand while drawing it? Also arrow would not rest against the bow, it would be slightly offset from it.
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So you recommend dry heat, heat gun for example and heating the middle area? Didn't know dry heat works for hazel.
Just checked on the build of my "Wonky Hazel" bow... I did a steam correction first, but it kept shifting, I ended up doing a dry heat/oil correction.
The relevant two posts are here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/very-interesting.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/very-interesting.html)
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/wonky-hazel-shoots-clean.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/wonky-hazel-shoots-clean.html)
Del
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If it looks close, I don't even think about heat correction until it's braced.
It might be perfect alignment
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Yeah, but wouldn't it cause turning the bow in the hand while drawing it? Also arrow would not rest against the bow, it would be slightly offset from it.
Slightly offset? Depends on ehich end ends up up
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There is no way to know for sure where the string will lie until you get it braced. I always leave the handle area full width until the bow is braced then shape the handle to the string. Obviously this isn't possible on a longbow but...;)
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String offset is at least 2 cm from the center of the bow.
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It appears to be on both limbs pretty good like eveyone said get it to brace and check it. As it sits it looks like a slight tweek to the top tip will move it enough to get the string at the edge of the grip and that is going to make spine a lot easier to deal with arrow wise
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How to hold the bow on the tillering tree while I use long string? Should I clamp it, because it cannot hold balance because of weird offset, bow tips on its side.
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Put the string in the saddle and pull down on the handle
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You mean flip the bow like warbow bowyers do sometimes?
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Will blocks made from black locust heartwood function as a good tip overlay instead of horns?
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Dry heat (heatgun with oil) has not worked on hazel for me
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what happened?
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You mean flip the bow like warbow bowyers do sometimes?
YES
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It just wouldn't plastify it seemed. Went on for 30 minuttes or so without being able to bend it. The oil started sizling but no. Ended up breaking it being violently impatient :laugh: