Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: hedgehog on October 06, 2016, 10:16:54 am
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Has anyone used Tite Bond Hide glue for sinew backing a bow? I have 2 bottles and before I begin backing the new bow I thought I could inquire. Also curious if I should use my double boiler to bring the glue temp up to the same temp as when I use my granulated hide glue?
I have backed sinew backed many bows, but have always used the old method. Thanks, Larry (Hedgehog)
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I have used that glue on 2 diferent sinew bows and have had no problem also have used it in furnture making with good results but make sure you check the exsperation date on the bottle as well as a jell test it takes a little longer to jell but it gives you a long work time I added a little water for the sizing coat I think this glue has got a bad wrap due to people using exspired glue. If it is thick from cold temps you can run the.
Bottle under the hot water for a few minutes & it becomes thinner but no need for hot pot.
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Stick Bender, Did you heat up the glueor use it cold?
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Just modified my post above with info.
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Thank you sir. I just have a difficult time believing sinew backing a bow can be this much easier and cleaner then the old way I have always done it.
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Liquid hide glue has a shelf life because of additives. If it is out of date it can take forever to set. I've ever used it but I've heard good and bad things about it for sinew backing. I think I'd use Knox or granular hide glue for a sinew backed bow.
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so is pearl glue the same as hide glue?
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I would take Pat B advice above my limited hands on exsperience he has made a heck of a lot of bows there is also some good info on that glue & others on Dean Torges web site I cant find the link but a quick google search will get you there
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so is pearl glue the same as hide glue?
Pearl glue? I suppose if you used Pearl Drums hide and simmered it slowly....
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well, he does make a good bow >:D
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Think mebbe should have said scotch glue pearl drops?
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Pearl and granular are just two variations of hide glue. Granular is stronger and gels faster. Pearl glue is used for applications requiring lower strength and longer working time.
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Thanks Pat, starting first ever sinew job in next fortnight, was going to get pearl drops so that's saved me an expensive mistake :D
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I would just use gelatin. I've had commercial glue end up very brittle in a flexing application. Gelatin never makes cracking noises.
I think non-food grade glue can end up being somewhat decayed due to hides etc. breaking down before they are processed.
That is going by the slight aged roadkill smell that emanates from it.
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so is pearl glue the same as hide glue?
Pearl glue? I suppose if you used Pearl Drums hide and simmered it slowly....
Take a long time to simmer that tough ol' bird down lol
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I'd totally forgotten about gelatin, much cheaper than glue too ;D
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Gelatin will have a high mechanical strength but it gels very quickly making it hard for a new user to get it right.
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Easy to re-activate per my sinew tutorial at the top of the page.
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I love your how-to, I've read it through several times and I am definitely going to give it a go
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I think anytime a hide glue has any kind of an offensive rotten type smell I would'nt use it.Meaning it has lost it's strength.Dark hide glue I won't use either.Should be a lighter slightly amberish or golden type color when dried.
I'll relate that to brain tan hide finishing.Not fleshing soon enough before dried or not freezing it soon enough the fat burns or breaks down the integrity of the gelatin in the fibers and weakens them so that during the roping process the fibers come apart and a hole will appear.