Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Swamp Thang on October 02, 2016, 08:46:38 pm
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I would like to invite everyone to join me on this build of a D bow. In an effort to craft something that expresses itself through many people and their experiences. So come in weigh in with your opinion i would like to use an idea from as many people as possible.....So here we go..
I recently discovered a few hickory trees straight and true. What circumferences and length should I be harvesting looking to build one at least 55#'s
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Looking forward to seeing this one. 55# is doable at almost any length depending on your draw length. I'd say go as short as possible...just for kicks and grins. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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I like cutting my hickory at around a 8" to 10" log around 6' long,but most all my logs I like cuttiing that way no matter what the type of wood.You should be able to get around 5 staves out of that.
You might have time yet with the sap flowing to just pop the bark right off.Saves some of the work.I don't build many D bows which you might be able to go a little narrower so you might get 6 or more staves from that log.
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I think you mentioned being in South East Texas in a previous post (?). Take a look at some of the other white woods around (American Elm, Dogwood, Crepe Myrtle, Persimmon...etc) 1 1/2" - 3" saplings in particular. They are all capable of producing hunting weight bows. I kinda prefer to use saplings and shooting D bows, but that just me. You can get a lot bow, out of a little tree.
Cheers
Thunder
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Why not the tension side of a branch, leaving the crown?
I suggested short static recurves, but that wouldn't be a D bow anymore, and probably not that primitive?..
would it be easier or harder to do higher draw weight w/o bow exploding with a sapling? The bow would have to be thicker or wider?..
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I want to watch this thread!
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would it be easier or harder to do higher draw weight w/o bow exploding with a sapling? The bow would have to be thicker or wider?..
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Great question. Anybody care to give us your input?
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Okay since there are so many options I'll be hunting trees and deer tomorrow I'll post possibles and let everyone vote on best stave and go from there.
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would it be easier or harder to do higher draw weight w/o bow exploding with a sapling? The bow would have to be thicker or wider?..
Great question. Anybody care to give us your input?
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Not sure if it's easier or harder, but it can be done. I'm not claiming to be an expert but I've made quite a few hunting weight bows out of saplings. If you have tension strong species like the ones I mentioned, you can easily get 50#+ D bows. I make em kinda short, 58" ntn, give or take an inch for a 25" draw. I usually make 11/8" wide parallel limbs and taper the last 5 to 6 inches down to under 1/2" tips. I'm sure a little extra length would make it easier to acheive higher draw weights.
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So going with a sapling...what diameter?.....5" to 10"?
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So going with a sapling...what diameter?.....5" to 10"?
You can use a sapling a small as 1 1/2"-2" in diameter and get a nice bow out of it.
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You sir just blew my mind.
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^^ hah hah.
amazingly, the saplings are no joke.
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This is from a very small piece of heat tempered American Elm 1 1/8" wide 46" ntn and 50#@ 22" draw. I could probably get another inch of draw out of it, but I really don't need to. It's a lot of fun to shoot
I'm looking forward to seeing the hunting weight D bow you desire.
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh500/thundersdad/D%20bow/20141205_155109-1_zpsym74d7xa.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/thundersdad/media/D%20bow/20141205_155109-1_zpsym74d7xa.jpg.html)
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Ohhhhh niiice perfect size for where I hunt.....we have loads of cedar elm I wonder if it's comparable.
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How thick is that?
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I'm not sure about the Cedar Elm but I'm sure it's worth a try. There's not a whole lot of work put into these small saplings. This one is 1 1/8" wide and 11/16" thick at the handle.
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So I got sick while hunting had to call it a day this is the only stave I managed to grab it's an elm. The decisions are top circumference 5 1/4" the bottom 6 1/2" total length 100" enough for a few bows. Okay bark is stripped. Do we leave the cabium on to dry?
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Nice find....it might check on you if you don't seal it with something (ie white glue, shellac, polyurethane) You can take some of the cambium layer off now or later to leave a cool mottled effect.
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Follow your advice left a little on for contrast really cut it in half last night and it started to split along the stave so I finished cutting managed to split and save one of the longer halves the other I didn't split left whole and spread tallow across the surface. Oh and for how straight it was has some twisted grain.....
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So the stave is roughed and pretillered I'll post pics soon
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These build are great, love when they come together by input from everyone's ideas.
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Okay so having trouble finding a good resized that keeps enough quality to still see the detail. Bit I'll tell you this so far at 50" pulling to 19" it's 42# with an inch and a quarter of set
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Just get a free photobucket account it resizes the pics for you