Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BowEd on August 15, 2016, 11:45:27 am
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Helo....OK I've got a really nice hedge bow going here.Clean flat back and all propellers taken out and limbs balanced.Floor tillered to within 10#'s of my draw weight.Hav'nt braced it yet but am sure it'll pretty much go right to the short string and be in tiller.64" TTT & 62.5" NTN.I'm wanting to induce quite a bit of reflex to this bow in the end pushing the envelope because of the quality of wood on this bow.Thought I'd relieve the inner limbs a bit before inducing more reflex on outside third of limbs besides the tips flipped a bit there.
The form I have can do this for me with dry heat with a clamp on the center of the handle.I usually make R/D bows from natural shapes[knots etc.] from staves or laminated glue induced bows.I'm wondering if I'll have a problem doing the deflex inducing evenly on each limb.The deflex on this form gives about an inch to the bow.3/4" would work for me too.I can only do one side at a time.I've seen it done many a time on a stave on here and just wondering if that's a problem.I am going to just brace it to tiller and that's all before any deflexing or heat treating is done to it though to be sure of good tiller and then tiller it out.
I'm not going to use this form for the rest of the reflex though but have a half form I will use for that.I'm going to put reflex at base of flipped tips and into outer third of limbs.Pic of form and bow.Probably worrying about nothing but....
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1319_zpsqhnu2ebm.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1319_zpsqhnu2ebm.jpg.html)
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Should be just fine Ed. Personally I like the entire shape, reflex included.
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You mean straight out completely horrendously reflexed and no deflex?The flipped tips gave it 2.5" and then adding 4 to 6 more inches.If so I've thought about that too.This piece of hedge is quality I'd say.It could very well handle it.
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No, I mean the exact shape of your caul would look very nice and perform just as well.
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So I'm going to assume that by doing one limb at a time will make both evenly done?
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I'm gonna guess here and say I'll need to put my clamp on the handle.Clamp it down to a good 3/4" deflex.It's plenty thin enough to handle that.Hit it with the heat gun on both limbs from middle of limb to handle?Not from handle to middle of the limb?That could make a difference.
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There's always assumptions made with heat bending especially before tillering.Losing half of what you induce is one.Giving the bow an overall reflex of 6" to 7" would only take 3.5" to 4.5" reflex induced into limbs adding to 2.5" stiff tips.Losing 50% in limbs after tillering.With 2.5" from stiff tips and 1.75"[half of 3.5"] gives a finish of 4.25".With 2.5" from stiff tips and 2.25"[half of 4.5"] gives a finish of 4.75".If the wood holds up to it out to 28".Design means everything to this deal to hold up.
Taking 3/4" off both those totals with deflex in handle gives 3.5" or 4".
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I would steam the center 14-16", then deflex it into the caul. I would use dry heat to continue down each limb adding reflex.
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I've thought of that too at first....Steaming but don't want possibility of cracks to appear after drying.Don't know if I like that idea.
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I only suggested it because you can make the bend all at once which makes it even side to side, and it will get hot enough without darkening or scorching the wood. If the wood is dry, it shouldn't crack with steam. Id say a 30-35 minute steam should just about do it.
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Ed I just got through with one that I did just as you described. I tillered the bow to 20" draw then induced the delex/ reflex shape. When cooled I braced it and it came out perfect. Don't know if it was the proper way or not but it worked quite well.
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PD....Yes I know what you meant.It makes sense for sure.The biggest pot I got is only 10" wide though.Get a bigger pot eh eh eh eh.....lol.Now how is it I see guys do it with dry heat now though is what I want to know gol-darnet.That would solve my problem for sure.
JonW...You bet.This one I'll just take to only brace and that's it paying close attention to how many pounds it takes to get tips 6" past handle.Around 50#'s.That way I don't tiller my heat treatment away and I don't stress wood any before hand either.Works like a charm most times....lol.A person does'nt have to worry too much about good hedge gaining much weight after heat treatment.Not like whitewoods anyway.I'm sure I'll hear a contrary to that now.....lol.
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Pearls idea is best I think, but I have done it with dry heat any number of times. I generally don't use oil, but when bending the handle I coat it pretty generously. I just heat and then turn the crank a bit. Heat and repeat until your there. I can usually feel that the tension on the clamp has eased up a bit. Big thick handles may complicate it.
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OK Pearly.......The wood is dry for sure long time ago already.Robin had a canning pot that's 13" wide inside.I'll use the turkey fryer burner.Should work.I know for a fact if I clamp it down on that R/D form which shows an inch of deflex it won't keep that.It'll spring back to about 3/4" or so still good enough.With my 7.75" to 8" handle it'll steam bendable wood of about 5/8" thick about 2.75" from end of fade out into each limb.2.75"+2.75"+7.75"= 13".That should work.
I think I did a cedar handle long long ago that did'nt crack while drying.I'm gonna be pissed if it does though....ha ha ha.
Thanks for all your helpful comments.
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Good point Slimbob about the handle thickness.After I brace it to tiller I'll carve the handle in and go from there.
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Ed if you steam it to get that bend, then heat treat before you remove it from the form i should keep most all of the deflex
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I. Finished one up recently with a simular design and it's a heavy hitter.the hooks on mine where a little bigger though.the one I made the limbs stacked at about 22" and the levers opened up kinda like a primitive duoflex at 26".i used localized steam and dry heat only.i added just a smige of defex at the fades and got a little more from set.i shot heavy arrows through it and it shot thru my banged up fabric target,thr two layer of 3/8" rubber mat and slammed in to the plywood,wowzers!
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Ed you could always thin that handle down, say another 3/4" for an easier bend. Then fill it in with another wood or horn, like Marc does on his RD splice bows.
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Ed you could always thin that handle down, say another 3/4" for an easier bend. Then fill it in with another wood or horn, like Marc does on his RD splice bows.
That's exactly what I was thinking. I don't like the idea of deflexing the fades and it would be tricky to bend them symmetrically. I would thin the handle to less than 1 inch in thickness, bend in the middle, and cut the belly of handle flat again to attach a riser.
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Ed it's really not complicated. I used a heat gun and had zero problems getting it hot enough to bend. The handle was 1 1/2" deep and 1 1/4 wide. I know your skills. Don't over think it man.
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I appreciate the comments and help fellas.All great usable solutions to my inquiring.Sometimes more than I should I overthink things.I won't really know how good this piece of wood is yet till final tillering.What I had in mind from the beginning was to make a reflexed or R/D levered bow with the levers reflexed or bent a bit.I don't think it could be called a recurve really....The string won't be touching the belly of tips.Having it hold at least 4" of reflex through all of the torture of tillering and shooting in without any backing was a goal too.It's been done by a few people on here before.I really wanted to see myself too just how well it would stand up if it makes it of course after about 3 to 4 years of shooting etc.I've been skeptical of this.Sort of a long term experiment I guess.In the past most times I made bows by the rule to give it enough reflex to hold up to at least a flat or slightly reflexed profile resting finished with a self bow that is.
At least this one has inspired me some.Thanks again.
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I just heat the center section and pull it down the work out each limb, I always do it all at one shot, never had a problem, just takes a little while on the center section as I heat it slow and pull it a little at a time. :) I have one form about like that one, they turn out a nice smooth shooting bow. :)
Pappy
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I have done most of that deflex in the center of the handle with success. Some times the back will crack on the first ring . Takes lots of heat and I do it with bar clamp and a couple blocks on my bench.You have to sometimes put leather on if it cracks across that first growth ring though. I did not like that much so don't built them often. Ed I don't know you well enough to talk about how much set your bows take if any. But 1 1/2 in of set would get some of that deflex for you. Oh and by the way I like where it is at right now. Looking good. Arvin
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Pappy....I should pay attention sometime at these bow making gatherings when this type of a deal is done.No matter how the back gets to the form from heat I suppose heating both limbs up to midlimb then would seal the deal.Making the handle a 1 and 1/8" thick to do this would work with a chunk glued on later to thicken up the handle like PD said.Dry heat I mean.
Selfbowman...I realize that too about set for my deflex.Then people will call it an R/D but not intending it to be one....ha ha ha.Normally lots of times I can keep my set an 1" or less most times.Depends on design and type of wood etc.
bushboy....I know what you mean about the levered bows.Made enough here to keep making them for sure.Like their performance and sweet smooth draw.
JonW....Yes I know your right.It's not all that hard really.I should be able to handle that.
bubby....Your right there bud.I always dry temper anything I steam bend myself.Especially recurves or statics.
Braced the bow.Carved the handle.It weighs just about a pound now that's all.It was an 1/8" negative tiller because top limb was 1/8" more reflex.Tidied that up and looks like it'll just make a 45# pound bow.Did'nt remove much wood really.I decide to just go with my half form for reflexing each limb.No R/D adventure this time....ha ha ha,but still thanks for the input and advice.It leaves the handle flat.The static tip goes off the end of the form and just the working limb gets reflexed.Trying to balance the curve of the tip with the reflex into a nice ever increasing type reflex given to each limb.Still a nice rounded type full draw then.I'll see if it can pick up a little poundage from reflexing and heat treating.Might wait 2 weeks I don't know yet.I usually use my 10 day rule....ha ha ha.Pics of the bow and form.
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1320_zpshfp29sv1.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1320_zpshfp29sv1.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1320_zpshfp29sv1.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1320_zpshfp29sv1.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1322_zpsacfrscc8.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1322_zpsacfrscc8.jpg.html)
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Second limb being done.Screwed up and sent first one 2 times sorry.
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1321_zps1npmddjm.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1321_zps1npmddjm.jpg.html)
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One thing about inducing deflex into the bow. The bow needs to retain the reflex deflex shape at brace and well into the draw or there is no benefit. Your bow looks nice as you have it now but I honestly stay away from that much reflex anymore. If it causes the bow to take too much set it defeats a lot of the purpose. If you want to finish with 2" I like to start with 3". If you start with 6" and finish with 2 it looses some snap. Now if you retain about 4" of that you will have a fast bow.
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Yes I hear ya.My intentions are to keep 4" of course.Like talking about earlier in the post I'll see in about 2 weeks.
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WOW...........I'm disappointed this post took a turn.....I was looking forward to a R/D bow. Good luck with that much reflex.....just stringing to brace is tough....
Will love to see it after about 500 shots see ya then......???
DBar
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That much reflex is tricky, and I agree with Badger that if it looses most of it, it can be a dud, but, if it holds, it could be a screamer. I have one from a few years ago that I put 6 inches of reflex in it. I have shot it a ton. Took it bow fishing last month and probably put 100 arrows thru it over the weekend. I just measured it and it sets at 4 inches of reflex. I like the looks of it Ed.
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Tiller it well and keep the set low and that thing will be incredible.
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Nice profile Ed with that reflex if any body can do its you , looking foward to future posts !
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Looks good, as other have said that much reflex is sometimes[most times] hard to manage but if you pull it off it will for sure be a shooter. :) So you decided not to go with the deflex handle ??
Pappy
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ok heres my 2 cents,, reflex or deflex,, whatever,, there is going to be a sweet spot in the way the bow performs,, it may not be your preconceived draw length, that is key,, if you monitor the bow through a chrono as you shoot it in, it will reveal itself,, if you go past that,, it will pull more than desired reflex out of the bow and possibly be disappointing,, profile wise,, and in the performance you may expect,, if you go past the sweet spot, the longer power stroke is not gonna make up for it,, :) that being said,, it is sometimes hard to let the bow be the bow it wants to be,, if its shooting great at 25 inches,, try shooting it like that a bit,,,, if I remember you killed a nice deer last year,, not coming to your normal full draw,, maybe this bow is gonna be the new normal,, :) :)
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Ed I see that you are partial to that horn belly/sinew back bow's profile!
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Normally I give bows a few inches of reflex and end up with a couple of inches after shooting in.My forms were for that type profile then and they all shoot fine.Above standard really.Self bows that is.I just really think the wood[osage] in this bow will handle it as long as I do my part in design and execution of that design.Without the deflexing of the inner limbs.I appreciate people following along.
Thought I'd try this once.I'm a hard head and make bows the way I want and know to be good performers and pleasant to shoot.You all are right in what the downside is and the upside too.Seen it happen both ways before too.I appreciate the encouragement and doubtful comments.
I always liked that reverse brace type profile to start with.Leaves the handle flat on stiff handled bows.Nice round full draw profile too.No problem to tiller really either nowadays.Most times it takes a little higher spined arrows to go with it.I would'nt try this type profile on some woods though.I have found that out.Osage is still king here too.I've heard 10" reflex is about the limit to start with before certain failure.Maybe slightly more.Wood only stretches 1% no matter what kind it is but some woods especially osage is so well balanced in both catagories of tension and compression it's worth the risk for me to try.If and when it becomes a shooter with at least 4" reflex resting after tillering/shooting in/hunting etc. like said earlier I will see if it holds up years down the line from use.If not it won't be one of my favorites that's for sure.I realize too this has all been done successfully before too.This is'nt something for new bowyers to want to try till they make enough bows but showing what can be possible is good too.
brad....For consistency I still can't bring myself to a shorter draw routinely.I have my routine that took seems like years to get and better keep it.I'd rather use a wood and design that accomadates to my style of shooting rather than the bow telling me what it should be.If it does'nt it is given away or sold or goes in the wood stove....lol.That's just me.Making a bow for someone else is different of course.
Slimbob....Got a pic of that screamer your shooting fish with there????....[the fish too]....lol.I bet you showed it years ago.I know I would of givin ya a that-a-boy response....lol.
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Ed, I still like to experiment also. Most of the time when I get aggressive on the reflex it doesn't always hold it, but when it does I sure get a thrill. Something I just figured out the last couple of years is that not all set is really set on a reflexed bow. Sometimes a little of the reflex will just leave because it wasn't hard set to start with. One way you can tell is how well the bow maintains its profile before and after shooting and unbracing. I used to like to see my bow recover its reflex after a few minutes but I discovered that. A bow that maybe only recovers 1/2" or so after shooting is better than a bow that recovers a full inch. If you loose 3" of that reflex and when you unbrace after shooting and it stays about the same you are good to go. The wood is still solid. Not all set is the same.
Years ago I built a bow I used to call big hack. It was about 52" long and had about 10" reflex. The bow was made from hackberry. It held almost all the reflex I had put in to start with but did not have that high tension at brace we like to see. The limbs had become kind of rubberized. So this bow did not have visible set yet it was obvious I had really crushed the wood. The only real bottom line is how they shoot when you are done. We get lots if indicators of whats going on with the wood but they don't always hold true.
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Here's a few. The first 3 were taken upon completion of the bow March, 2014. The last one I just took for comparison sake. It's been to 3D shoots where I put several hundred arrow thru it, bow fishing where it's gotten really wet. Point is, it's been shot a bunch, and still maintains it's profile. Now it is fairly lite weight, 43 lbs at 27 inches and I think that helps it keep that shape, but when I want an all day shooter, this is the one I grab.
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Just got one pic of the fish, but I shot 10 or 12 that day.
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Thats a good looking bow! I would rather drop the weight and hold the profile than ask for too much and loose it.
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Badger....Yes your right on par about bow limbs not showing much movement set wise after shooting are the best.Those are the more durable ones.Wider ranges of set movement are an indication of stress no matter how quick the recovery in the beginning of life on a self bow.Unless it's sinew backed.Ha Ha.This bow was a flat stave to begin with.I'll see once.I did heat treat the belly pretty good on this one.Not black but darker though.Even used a laser thermometer...Zoweee!!!!.380 to 400 degrees for a few minutes.The scenario I'm hoping for it is to hold the outer third of reflex where stress is less.Lose some on inner third to maybe midlimb [maybe 2"] to make it flat and that'll be it.It should leave me with 4" I hope.With it being a lighter draw weight bow should help too as mentioned.A person's gotta realize where a bow does the most work to be successful and leave enough wood where it works the most too.Actually SLIMBOB's bow is what I imagined final look to be.
SLIMBOB...Nice bow man!!!A real shooter and a keeper.I'll look it up as to the length of the bow.Goood summertime fun there.Good eating too.Love the loins on those fish.
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that is a beautiful profile,, are you gaining anything in performance that just a gradual reflex would not do,,,given the tips are same distance in front of the handle,,???
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American Pike?
Beautiful brace profile of the bow, SlimBob!
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It had some reflex right out of the handle. Off the form it had 6 inches. The 2 inches it lost was all or mostly all mid limb back. As far as performance difference, I cant say for sure. I would suspect very little difference. Most all of the self bows I have made with set back handles, or reflexed inner limbs, lost their reflex or took set mid limb after some time. I went radical with this one just to see what it would do. This one just went back to straight right out of the handle which is about was I was hoping for best case.
Needle Nose Gar.
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brad...A gradual reflex is what was introduced on this bow.Opposed to what other profile????I'm not understanding your question.Everything being the same with the tips being at the same distance in back of the handle the bow should shoot the same except or unless one bow has more weight on it's outer third or tips than the other.Pretty much moot at that stage unless it's extreme I'd say though.A few fps does'nt bother me any really.Just bragging rights.....lol,and those are just words that's all even though they may be true.....lol.
SLIMBOB...You got about 4 more inches of length on me there TTT.Now I'm getting worried....ha ha ha.A difficult piece you worked with there back in March of 2014..I took opposing propellers out of this one too.This one is 1.5" wide which would help for poundage but to combat set it's the length I want longer.Dead pan flat back though.We'll see.I'm letting it rehydrate at 50% humidity now another 12 to 13 days.
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I just meant a straight reflex as opposed to the reflex deflex,, just what your thoughts were,, but I was really thinking about you were saying if it does not work you might give it away,, :) so if it comes in shooting great at 26 or 27 could you send it my way :) :) :) I would let that bow tell me how to shoot any day,,
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Good luck with it Ed. I been following this one and I'm curious what you end up with. Sweet lookin thus far!
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brad....... I think an R/D bow slams home softer or sweeter with less hand shock than an all reflexed bow.Darn good design.With less noise too without silencers.You built them before?
I just did'nt want to go through all of the heating/chance of cracking etc. to get there on this bow,and really 6" of reflex is not pushing it to the outer limits either so I just went with an all reflexed reverse braced type profile.I'm sure you got your deer hunting bow picked out already.
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well I'll be watching to see how she does,, I do have a deer bow and a backup,, so no worries if you don't send it this way,, :)
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brad...I'm always hoping to keep a bow I build for myself if it's intended to be.I'm sure you are the same way but before a person pulls the over stressed poor bow into set prone oblivion on it's way onto the shelf of shame my experiment is'nt finished yet.Pulling it from 26 to 28 is going to take more set.Just a fact.How much to affect profile like said I'll see.If I did my job right it'll be ok.I just got a feeling it will be.Some things are still out of a person's control though with homogenous material.Making these bows is like christmas the night before no matter how long a person has been making them.......lol.
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Well christmas came with a bang for me here.....lol.After waiting a bit for rehydration etc. from heat treating and forming I bent this bow on the tree.Things went fine.In tiller as the draw got longer.I had noticed a little bit of a check crack about 10" down from the tip on one limb earlier but it did'nt run off the edge even though it was at the top view taper so I was'nt concerned about it but should have been.It appeared after heat treating the steamed in flipped tips.Well as I got to 26" and things were good.Even smooth progression of draw weight.About 44#'s @ 26"....perfect!!!Pulled it to 28" and kapow!!!Surprised me all to heck.At least it happened on the tree.I can't remember ever breaking an osage bow in my life but this one did.Took pics of the scene and seems to me that crack was the problem.The break started there.
The bow was holding a substantial amount of the heated in reflex though and I think would of had close to 4" of resting reflex if it held up.So live and learn and that'll teach me to study my piece of wood and heed things a little better next time.Here's some pics of what I see.Comments are welcome.
Back of bow
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1323_zpshmir1h8m.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1323_zpshmir1h8m.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1324_zpsfafnoa2z.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1324_zpsfafnoa2z.jpg.html)
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Wow that's crazy had high hopes on that one Ed I know you did too but your right better on the tree though not that's any constellation , I guess you never know with natural products sorry that had to happen to you
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Bummer. I was looking forward to seeing this one done.
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Thanks fellas.I was looking forward to it too.Longitudal grain run off and a check was the culprit that got me I think.
On the upside yesterday at a 3D shoot with my FG buddies this club has a chronograph set up before you go on the course.Kinda nice.I carried that hick/horn/sinew bow with me and shot a 600 grain arrow through at 27.5"@ 51#'s and it read 175.Don't know what that translates to shooting a 510 grain arrow though.I imagine pretty decent.
It was densely foggy that morning and was misting to boot.The composite held up great.After 3 hours it still had 7" of reflex starting with 8.25".
Well I'll try again sometime after a little break here on a piece of plain old osage to get closer to those numbers without composites.
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That's too bad Ed, with a high stressed bow i like to err on the safe side and glue and throw a wrap on a check like that just in case
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Yep that could of definitely helped.In my mind though of what I want and what the bow NEEDS are 2 different things and the bow always wins out....lol.
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Thing about this break is that either design R/D or reflex would of killed it.
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Looks like a good clean break....I have no idea what that means, but I hope it helps. :)
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well I wish you had shot it through the chrono at 26,, I bet is was shooting good,, sorry bout the loss,, and best to you on the next one,,
maybe rawhide back it if it is really pushing the design,, I know you will get it on the next one,,
also I think if you had let it sweat braced maybe a day ,, before trying to go to 28,, it might not have been so sensitive,, cause when it broke, it was really not used to being pulled to much,,some people don't like to do that,, but I think it helps on a bow that is holding alot of reflex to break it in real slow,, gives it a chance to settle in a bit,
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Yes I see your point Brad.I've never been in a habit of letting it sweat that much.Usually my floor tillering gets it within 5 to 10 pounds of my finished draw weight.Most times an hour at the most I let it brace a while before tillering then.I think some people let it sweat on bows more that start out at 75 pounds or so at brace wanting a 50 pound bow in the end.I'm afraid rawhide more than likely would not have saved this one either.A wrap in that area would of worked I think.I know you can't see it from there but those are my thoughts.
One other thing too.I stored this bow in a 45% humidity area after heating it.Seemed to me this osage was very dry too which can lead to a tension break.
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It looks like it might have gotten off the grain when you roughed it out.If the crack is following the grain as I would expect it does appear to run off.
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yes probably not just one thing,, for sure,,, but next time you get it to 26 shoot if for me,, :) :) :)
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That break looks like grain run off the way it goes from one side of the limb to the other. I'm working on a bow with almost that exact same profile. I overbuilt mine since its going to a trade blanket at a mostly FG bow shoot. I left mine 68" long for a 28" draw. I figure they might hold it at full draw longer than a selfbow should normally be held since they are used to modern recurves.
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Ed sorry to see it. That had potential. I have a couple I am shooting now with the same type crack in the top growth ring due to me not being patient on the moisture. I agree with the wrap but they are not pleasing to my eye. One question do the bows you are building with that much reflex have more shock ? Assuming the bows have same draw weight? Arvin
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Sorry to see that.
My deflexing form is two triangles placed on top of a straight 3x2. You can move them in or out and just clamp the handle, giving each side equal time under the gun. They always come out event. Just for next time!
Chrono numbers on your composite are good ;)
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Yes fellas it's one of those should of been would of been type things that at least I know exactly why it failed.Really wish I would of came through on this one.I've got more wood.....lol.Seems as though looking through my stash at the longitudal lines I really don't have an absolutely straight stave so I will definitely pay closer attention to that next time.Seems like I've seen that longitudal line shift some through the thickness of the limb before too but if followed correctly on the back it should'nt have broke.Where it broke was actually where it quit working in the limb too.About 10" down from the tip.The reflexed tips stayed stiff.Still know I can do this,and as Arnie Swararzenpickle says....I'll be baaaack!!!
Anyway Selfbowman.....to answer your question about hand shock on higher reflexed bows of mine here really and honestly not much.Not in the bowhand per say.My bow arm can definitely feel the bow loading up early on in the draw of course and stays nice and steady throughout the draw and when released cleanly it's just a whispery snap with very minimal thump at all.I'd love for you to shoot it sometime to verify my statement.Now I'm shooting at least 11 gpp arrows too.Which if I was to shoot an 8 gpp that could very well be a little different.That bow is 60" long.
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Thanks Ed I was curious. Arvin
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ok Ed, since this is still up, I have been thinking on this every day,
well when you put that amount of reflex to the bow,,
my thinking is that means the bow is being drawn that much further,, alot further than a dead even bow,
plus the wood has been manipulated quiet a bit,
what you think about over building it just a bit to compensate for the extra strain the wood is seeing,,
just asking what your thoughts would be on that,, :)
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Well Brad it's up because I'll report the good with the bad.I try to be honest and open about all of this.Lots of variables to your question.I'm sure you know.Yes it gets drawn a good foot or so just to brace.That's my extra stored energy.The finished poundage should be less then a bit to lessen the stress I feel or to make the bow longer.No way of getting around that.That all can depend on the quality of the wood too.
Many feel the R/D design does the trick.I feel they're right too of course.These paticular points and thoughts about compensating stress I thought were discussed on the thread.I really feel that bow would have made it had I not overlooked that sneaky little runoff there,but that's all it takes once in a while.The bending portions of the limbs were fine.This is very doable.Not with every type of wood of course.Osage is the only one that I think can do this.I might go a couple of inches longer next time I'll see if the stave I use is from the same tree.Sometimes during a build a bow can kind of morph into something that was not intended too.I always try to leave my options open.My experiment went farther than just the build.I wanted to see from a lot of usage how it held up over time.A sacrificial bow so to speak.
If I did'nt live in an osage growing area I would have second thoughts about this for sure.Just making a shootable decent bow right now feels like I'm treading water and going nowwhere with this hobby.
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thanks for you thoughts, I get a better idea what you are going for ,, there should be a sweet spot there for you with the bow design that shoots great and and holds up to lots of shooting,,,,, thanks for posting,