Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: jeffp51 on May 26, 2016, 04:09:11 pm
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Here is the second attempt at matching a set of arrows closely. 32" long shot from a 55# bow and spined at 75#. The points are matched to within a grain of each other. (125) If you will remember, I tried this once before with what ended up being very underspined shafts. The bare shaft test broke them. This time the bare shaft test was much better, although I am sure I could use a little more refinement on it. I am happy with the results.
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This was the second time through the bow for all 4 arrows (one arrow is hard to see behind the other.) Not every round has been as good, but I can see that they fly straighter, more consistent, and penetrate deeper that my arrows have in the past. I assume that is because they are hitting straighter. They are averaging 600 grain, although they are not matched to weight as close as I would like.
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Nice arrows, are they bamboo?
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Yes, of the garden stake variety. Started with 6 in this set, and two couldn't be sanded to match. I am going to have to make some more to replace all the arrows in my quiver that have suddenly become obsolete.
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You may have to change you last name to Fletcher!
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nice work.
i dig those splices too 8)
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Those look really sharp.
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Nice!!!!!
What are the points? Wrapped screw in field points?
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What diameter of boo do you look for for 75# spine?
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Thanks for the nice comments. The tips are made of three 5-32 brass nuts and one washer ground down on a belt sander counter tightened on a threaded rod. The shafts taper from about 8.25 mm at the tip to just over 7mm at the nock, but I started larger and sanded them down some until they had the right spine.
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Very nice arrows
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Sorry, they are 8-32 threads on the hardware.
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Very nice! I like how you did your nocks too.
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Those look like gooders!! Swell work. dp
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No easy task to work out a match set of shoot arrows. I'm in pressed very good job.
I don't comment on to many arrows I see on here. Not trying to put anyone down. Because what your doing is un con-seamable not only to componder's. But also to most traditional shooters that havn't stepped backward yet. Because they just can't give up that speed = distance thing.
That's why you see so many people shooting traditional and shooting carbons of there recurves and long bows. SPEED AND DISTANTS
I've only make 3 sets of 3 shoot arrows at a time. Way to time consuming for me to do.
Nice to make and to have but 5 or 10 grains doesn't matter at 12,15 yards.
Self bows don't shoot 300 FPS. Where 2 or 3 grains do matter.
THOSE LOOK SHARP but your feathers don't look to primitive.
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Thanks for the compliments. Crooked Arrow, I think making a good set of arrows may be tougher making a good bow. But how can you shoot one without the other? I make mine for a few reasons:
-when I looked at buying good arrows, the sticker shock about gave me a heart attack. Too much for something designed to break eventually.
- it tickles my OCD buttons in a good way. I know if I work it long enough, I can get it just right.
-home made arrows seem to match a home made bow
--but I don't care all that much about pure primitive-ness. I like to make beautiful, useful (functional) things. These are hardware store bamboo shafts. I would rather save my wild feathers for the self harvested shoots I have drying.
Thanks again.
These
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Very nice arrows, the spliced fletchings look ace 8)
Ruddy Darter.
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Wow, beautiful job all around.. Tips, cresting and fletch job...
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haha I thought you died the feathers, not spliced
Do you use a spine tester?
Man I can't wait to make a matched set. Nice job. Being able to make a matched set is awesome, I hear it is much harder than just making one.
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My spine tester is a digital caliper (from harbor freight) and a chart downloaded from the internet. I found several examples in Google, and it is a cheap and accurate setup. It is fairly easy to sand a shaft to match spine, or to match weight, but harder to do both at the same time.
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To match spine, sand in the middle, to match weight, sand the ends.
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What diameter of boo do you look for for 75# spine?
I was spining some shafts and remembered this post. These are all just under 3/8" and spine 50,60,70 and 80 left to right. It's impossible to tell just by diameter. I think the wall thickness and age at harvest have more to do with it. I just stockpile them and pick out the spine I want. If it's not there I sand or scrape down a heavier one. The actual weight of them is all over the map too.
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Just an update--I have been shooting these four arrows for a bit now, and while I still miss plenty, I also have hit some really nice groups on a far more consistent basis than ever before. I am now confident that when I miss, it is my fault and not the equipment. It is also nice to see just the nock and the spinning fletchings going down range.
Of course the down side is now I am getting a soft spot in the middle of my target and since the arrows are flying straight, they sometimes penetrate up to the fletchings. . .
DC, I have noticed the same thing about bamboo thickness and spine.
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Just an update--I have been shooting these four arrows for a bit now, and while I still miss plenty, I also have hit some really nice groups on a far more consistent basis than ever before. I am now confident that when I miss, it is my fault and not the equipment. It is also nice to see just the nock and the spinning fletchings going down range.
Of course the down side is now I am getting a soft spot in the middle of my target and since the arrows are flying straight, they sometimes penetrate up to the fletchings. . .
DC, I have noticed the same thing about bamboo thickness and spine.
Tape some cardboard over the front and back.
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Of course the down side is now I am getting a soft spot in the middle of my target and since the arrows are flying straight, they sometimes penetrate up to the fletchings. . .
I guess that's one advantage to being a lousy shot ;D ;D ;D
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Ooh la la those look nice