Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: kid bow on May 02, 2016, 10:13:29 am
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Got some horn from a water buffalo collecting dust and I want to know how to polish it really well for my trade bow. Anyone know how???
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I start with medium grit paper and work up to 220 then switch to steel wool going up to 0000
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My experience is that it sands/polishes more or less like wood, but that it needs to get up past 800 grit (or the equivalent steel wool grade) to look any good. Also, it really benefits from buffing with red rouge or the like. A dremel works pretty well for this, if you want to do tips or other detail work.
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Like they said :D :D
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I get it shaped the way i want it and sand up to about 600 800 wetsanded and then buff it with white compound, a big no no is to buff it on the same wheel that you buff brass or other metals it messes it up. Buff and check if it needs more sanding you will know after buffing
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(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/gregs%20bow/DSCN1319_zps57luyr9f.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/gregs%20bow/DSCN1319_zps57luyr9f.jpg.html)
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I've had some finish peel off the horn when I got it too polished. A surface poly needs something to stick to, oil finishes will peel easier yet.
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Bubby that is exactly how i want my horn to look
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Then you will need to go to 800 grit, minimum before buffing compound!!!
And if you are using a buffing wheel on a bench grinder, keep that material moving and NEVER NEVER NEVER bear down with any effort. You want to avoid building up any heat at all because the horn will scorch at a very low temp and then you have to sand it out!
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Buffing wheel and polishing compound will bring it up like glass. I go to about 240 -320 grit then on to the wheel , 2 polishing compounds 'Vonax' and then 'Lustre'
To polish the grooves, use an old bootlace which you have pulled through polishing compound and use it diablo fashion.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/horn-nock-instructional-part2.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/horn-nock-instructional-part2.html)
I'll have to do another video and post it directly to Youtube. Those old ones got compressed to within an inch of their lives!
Del
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Is there any reason to put a finish over the buffed horn? I don't but I've wondered if it might oxidize or some mysterious UV interaction over time?
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Is there any reason to put a finish over the buffed horn? I don't but I've wondered if it might oxidize or some mysterious UV interaction over time?
On my powderhorns, I have never had luck with anything but a thin layer of beeswax warmed in and rubbed to a fair-thee-well. Everything I have ever tried peeled up, chipped off, cracked and crazed.
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My horn bow has shellac but shellac seems to tend to crack
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220 to 0000 steel wool then oil from your skin or bees wax does the trick for me.....or finish after 0000 steel wool.
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wonder how well tung oil would do... maybe a mixture of that and wax or something, thinned down
how is the belly finished in manchu bows?.. they were known to resist quite a bit of weather
It might be nothing at all.. just polishing
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I just use a razor blade. Looks perfect when finished short of putting a coating over it.
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If you are going to put a finish on it then DO NOT polish/buff your horn.....
Go to 400 grit paper. You now have a surface with fine scratches in it that will give the finish some tooth to bond to.
If you go finer your finish will come off every time.
Don't worry about 400 grit scratches showing once finished - they won't!
The varnish will make the horn shiny.
Even if you use a dull finish oil wait till you have the bow fully finished with all your finish coats then buff up the horn with a beeswax furniture polish.
Go to a pro car spray shop and ask them what grit they sand a bare body to.
DO NOT buff/polish horn/wood/anything else that is going to get a finish on it - you are just wasting your time!
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If you are going to put a finish on it then DO NOT polish/buff your horn.....
Go to 400 grit paper. You now have a surface with fine scratches in it that will give the finish some tooth to bond to.
If you go finer your finish will come off every time.
Don't worry about 400 grit scratches showing once finished - they won't!
The varnish will make the horn shiny.
Even if you use a dull finish oil wait till you have the bow fully finished with all your finish coats then buff up the horn with a beeswax furniture polish.
Go to a pro car spray shop and ask them what grit they sand a bare body to.
DO NOT buff/polish horn/wood/anything else that is going to get a finish on it - you are just wasting your time!
Well now that you tell me, it suddenly became blatantly obvious. Sheesh, why didn't I think of that? Thanks, Mike.
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When I turn down water buff horn for pen making, I polish it to a mirror finish. To do this, I get micromesh sanding kit that goes down to 12000 grit. You really do not want to use CA finish, because it will not take well. You want to use neatsfoot oil on it to keep it from cracking.