Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: stuckinthemud on April 16, 2016, 02:02:46 am
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Morning All
A few of my staves have gained quite a bit of reflex as they seasoned. Is this a good or a bad thing? Should I heat treat them to get them straight when I rough out the bow. If it is ok to have reflex, how much is too much?
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Some is good, too much and it will want to flip around when you try to tiller. I usually try to keep it under 3" just to keep tillering issues to a minimum. I wouldn't make any changes to them until you get things roughed out and can get some bend floor tillering. It may change some on it's own as you remove wood.
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Thanks DK. Does reflex reduce ultimate draw length by the amount of reflex? If a straight stave could only draw to 28" would it only draw to 26" if it was reflexed by 2"?
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I agree with Kid. If the reflex is uneven I try to even it out some. If too much I reduce the reflex to 3-4". Your draw length depends on how far you tiller out the bow, no matter how much reflex...however, the more reflex (more than 3-4")you start with will add more stress to the limbs and too much can be counter productive.
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A keen eye for floor tiller is key for high reflex bows imho.
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Hey Bushy, are you talking Bow Building 101 or College Prep Bow Building?
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Not sure what you mean pat?
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tickinthemud is a relative new comer. Talking about highly reflexed bows might be over his head. Three to 4" of reflex can strain the bow pretty well if not worked properly but highly reflexed bows are difficult for even seasoned bowyers to accomplish.
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Pat B x 2
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When you add reflex you also need to allow for more width. Thoe wood has to bend more so it has to be thinner. As log as you have enough width and not too high of a crown 3 or 4 inches should be doable. If you are lucky you will end up with 2". I like my personnal bows with about 1" finished reflex, I start with about 2 1/2" as a rule.
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Who cares as long as the bow shoots on target....... >:D
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tickinthemud is a relative new comer. Talking about highly reflexed bows might be over his head. Three to 4" of reflex can strain the bow pretty well if not worked properly but highly reflexed bows are difficult for even seasoned bowyers to accomplish.
X2 its a tough call no doubt.
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Just a question about reflex gained while the stave dries. Does it actually count as reflex? I heard it tends to disappear while tillering anyways, is that accurate?
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Reflex that naturally occurs during drying is still reflex although it may not be as sustainable as reflex added with heat. I prefer to add even deflex rather than take what happens naturally while drying.
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once you gain some experience,, all your options are open,, you can work with it as is ,, or heat and bend,,,both will shoot accurately ,, even a bow with a little string follow can perform as well as a bow with reflex,, depending on the mass and design,, each bow will have its own issues,, and thats what makes it fun to try to get the best from each piece of wood,,I like a bow that shoots hard for its draw,,,but I dont go crazy about it,, :) my bows are for hunting so a few fps one way or the other is ok, if the bow shoots nice and has a good feel,,i am ok with that,, that being said there is no need to pull 50# and get the cast of a 30# bow,, bows are more forgiving than some would think,, one limb can be deflex and the other reflex and you can still get nice arrow flight and a good shooting bow,,
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It's in the tillering. If both limbs are bending evenly and together and you have reached your desired draw weight at your draw length the bow should shoot fine.
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Thanks guys, thats all really helpful. The stave I am working on had 4" reflex and though i steamed it straight, it relaxed through the week to 2.5" reflex. I was going to treat it again but I will try tiller in it as it is. It's a D bow, 62" ttt.
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When you add reflex you also need to allow for more width. Thoe wood has to bend more so it has to be thinner.
Exactly. Narrow bows with curves or reflex wart to bend sideways to some degree, and are trying to, even if they don't. wider and flatter gives them only the option to bend front to back.
Reflex doesn't shorten the draw potential,it just increases the chances of blowing or overstraining the bow, and must be handled judiciously. A couple, even a few inches of reflex is a great place to start. More than that, and I will deflex at the handle, or pull some reflex out of inner or midlimbs while heat treating.