Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: whitesquirrel on February 22, 2008, 11:32:49 pm
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Has anyone tried to glue lams together not using urac or smooth on? I've got some gorilla glue and some 1/8" Douglas fir lams from a curved stair project left over and wanted to try making some recurves and some deflexed long bows. I read an article were the person used titebond 3 for a glue up which surprised me that it would hold up.
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Titebond works a lot of guys use it. I think gorilla glue would work fine but never tried it. I like recorsinol glue.
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I have tried Gorilla glue, not for bows tho. Even in normal woodworking projects I have no faith in the stuff. Titebond and urac is so cheap why bother with anything else.
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Gorilla Glue Foams up as a process of it's curing....so I have noticed that it leaves bubbles behind in the glue joints after it has set up....I would not waste my time with it....Titebond 2 or 3......or if you must have a Two Part Glue....the go with Urac
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I tried the tite bond 3 on the last two backed bows I made and it worked great. I've also made a couple with gorila glue and it worked as well but I hate how messy the stuff is, if you use it make sure you use rubber gloves and put lots of paper down under the project. I you get that stuff on your skin it wont come off for days! and water makes it worse! I would recomend the tite bond 3 over the gorila glue. Or just order some urac from nelsons paint company.
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Thanks for the advise. I do remember now the bubbles in the joint, not a good thing. Does urac need to be heat cured?
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I have never Heat Cured Urac....It cures on it's own... just make sure that the wood is Oil Free...use Acetone on Osage and other non-whitewoods....and if you are clamping it at room temperature (70-75*)....that you leave it clamped for a Minimum of 6 hours...I would go 12 myself..
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i use no heat, and ive used urac,tb2,tb3 ...no problems.
jamie
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You dont need to use heat with urac but it speeds up the curing process if you do. I also think it helps the bow take and hold reflex better when you use heat. We just use a regular old drying box with light bulbs. bake it at about 180 degrees for a hour or so, then turn the heat back down to around 90 or 100 for storage.
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Gorilla Glue is okay for static objects...those that just remain there like a chair. But it is a polyurethane glue and cannot endure the stress of a working and bending bow. So stick with TiteBond, Urac, and Resorcinol glues.
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I use gorilla glue for glueing on leather grips before I sew them. The foam fills any air gaps you can't see. And acetone will take it off your hands.
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I suppose another consideration is toxicity. Formaldehyde (urac) is not good stuff. Hide glue is certainly safe, at least as safe as lime Jello. But who knows what compounds are in the other glues :-\
Dave
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Gorilla glue is good for furnature. ;D
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David, If you want to know whats in it just look up the MSDS sheet for the glue.
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David, If you want to know whats in it just look up the MSDS sheet for the glue.
Eddie....I bet not everyone knows what a "Material Safety Data Sheet" is....so I D/Loaded a Link to it
http://www.minnesotaelevator.com/pdf/msds/gorilla_glue.pdf
This is a link to Urac 185 Hardener
http://www.msdsonline.com/Library/BIF/BIF579.pdf
This is a link to Urac 185 Resin
http://www.msdsonline.com/Library/BIG/BIG410.pdf
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Thanks, been around stuff so long I just took it for granted.
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I've not had any bow laminations fail using the poly glue. And I done a number of them. But none of them were Osage bows either. Oil in the wood isn't compatible with the poly glue. It's not the best glue around for lams IMO but it does work well if both works are properly prepared. Good thing about this type of glue is that it'll take a lot of heat for straightening and such. But mostly I use the poly glue for arrow footings.-ART B
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I believe the pressure rating for Gorilla glue is less than Titebond III