Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: nvstickbow on February 13, 2008, 04:24:33 pm
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I just started working on a 72" ntn elb style hickory backed ipe bow t hat I hope to get about 70# out of at 28". After I got the bow cut out of the piece of ipe that I had I got to thinking that I might have enough left to try a 56" or so 1 1/2" wide at the fades pyramid bow backed with sinew. Anyone ever try sinew on ipe?
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Yup....have made lots of em. It dont need ta be 1 1 /2 " at the fades unless ya want 100 lb. draw weight. ;)..bob
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Bob, it would have been great to have a pic of one of those for the article..I haven't made one yet, but the kid has this pile of sinew, and he has a project for his chumash class..I told him to pound out enough for a couple bows, and I would compensate him dearly...
Like feed him :D
Rich-
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Yep, I've made a few. Works fine.
It's a bit of overkill, though, as ipe is incredibly strong and makes a fine self bow if you get a stave with grain that is very straight.
I do have a sinew-backed ipe bow that has "hinged" in a spot where the grain is a bit wild. The bow has not broken but it dropped a few lbs in weight and I no longer use it.
I would recommend sinew backing on short ipe bows (54" or less) with very straight grain and 40# draw weight (or less). Anything heavier than 40# should be backed with something more rigid (or a proportionately thicker layer of sinew).
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this is out of a board that I picked up. looks to have pretty straight grain( as best as I can tell. Kinda hard to see on ipe.)
I am going back an forth between hickory backing and playing around with the sinew.
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......Rich---didnt think of that fer article. Will see ifn I can dig up a picture of one and post it. ;) Ipe is stronger in compression as we all know and a bit less in tension. I dont think ya can find anything stronger than sinew ta back it with or any wood with fer that matter. I have made bows from 62 " down ta 44 " backin' with sinew, pullin' from 52 lbs up ta as high as 85 lbs. Like said ya need more courses on the short bows an heavy draw weight bows. Its not overkill ifn thats what ya want. Now that ipe has become popular its probably harder ta find straight grain wood in lumberyards and such.....................bob
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I agree Bob, years ago when I wrote the first article on ipe, virtually every board would make a selfbow since the trees cut were larger, and thus straighter wood..Now I have to look a bit more..
Rich
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I can tell the difference between what Bob gave me and what I traded for recently that came from California.
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The most interesting aspect of ipe is the variety. When we talk of osage and yew for example they are each a species. With ipe there is 100 and probably more sub-species..Most dense enough to sink when dry, but not all. And the colors run from a tan, or very light greyish brown to nearly black.I have used ipe which is almost red, and it was some lively stuff.
I calculated that there us usually a half mile of ipe in the local yard when they re-stock the racks. The variety of color in these boards can keep me there for an hour checking them out..It's a good thing they know me because fellow customers probably think I'm a little obsessive.. ::) ;D
Rich
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Richard, what do you think of the ipe that puts out the yellow powder when rasping? I have kind of a preference for it and seems to be the most common variety. Steve
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Steve, That is what I like to see as well. Sometimes I see green dust, and its also a good sign..