Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bowyer420 on October 19, 2015, 06:05:48 pm
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Hey guys been reading here for a while and just joined to get some help and info, and hopefully showcase a bow if all goes well!
I've got a 2" X 1.3" x 69" piece of ash timber at the moment, and have read that because ash is stronger under compression than tension my best bet would be to make a flatbow?
I've found these designs:
(http://s29.postimg.org/f1j6f8jmf/bow.png)
and I'm considering following them except additionally I would have have a "self backing", by taking maybe ~ 3/8" thickness of the ash and flip the end round so the back and belly have different grain and glue it back on to help with structural integrity.
because although the grain was as straight as I could find there is a minor runoff.
Would you have any suggestions on the dimensions of such a design? Or instead would some sort of normal long bow still be possible?
Also I'm a bit confused about where to place the handle, as in should it be below center so as to fire the arrow from center, or handle on center so as to fire from above, or have a long handle section so i could do either? I don't intend to build a shelf, just to use my hand, so whats the traditional method with hand shelf? i.e should my hand be in middle with arrow above or hand below with arrow in middle.
I really appreciate any help and advice as I'm new to this (my first bow)!
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Narrow the tips to 1/2 an inch and the limbs to 1.75 and you should be good to go, also make the handle centered and pull the arrow from about 1in above center, the fades should be about 1.5 to 2in long and the handle 4-5 inches. Thickness taper from .75 at the fades to 5/8 at the tips should give you plenty of tillering room. Also, ash is very tension strong not compression strong :)
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Also, how many run outs are on your ash board, if two or less per limb than you should be good to go. Pics might help.
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Thanks very much for the help! ;D
Theres only one section where there's a runoff, the rest of the grain runs straight. (im not quite sure how runoffs are counted, if you mean by number of grains that run off then quite a few, but only in this one bit), don't have a camera but im just trying to work out how to upload it with my webcam will post pic in min
EDIT:
uploaded pic: (http://s12.postimg.org/gx5vfhbod/wood.jpg)
thats the runoff, kinda looks worse from side aspect of wood too, but I read its the grain on the wide bit (shown in pic) that matters, bout to add photo of side too tho.
other than this section the grain is pretty much dead straight
EDIT2: pic of side of this section with runoffs. (http://s29.postimg.org/vsyklns5z/grain.jpg)
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Good god man, chuck that on a fire and go do some midnight pruning and get ya sen a lovely sapling to become acquainted with! >:D >:D >:D >:D
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Where is that in location on your board? Thats no good for an unbacked bow if thats in the working limbs..handle maybe,but not where wood is bending...even a "soft" backing might not hold that together...what also worries me is that pin knot i see as well in the runoff area....are you SURE that the rest of the board has straight grain down the face AND sides? If so you might be able to use it and out that runoff/pin knot area as your handle area...but it will have to be a stiff handle and "smoothly" executed....
Honeslty id get another board dude ;)
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Yes, good advice.
One reason board bows fail is becasue of poor grain with too many run outs or run offs.
More onmy site.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
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That run off is terrifying, I may have nightmares tonight >:D
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Yup, better grab a better board. Your dimensions are good. Ash needs that 2" width to keep a nice shape, it like to follow the string if not wide and long enough, as well as properly tillered.
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ahh that's disappointing, thanks for the info guys, better I know now than find out when i try to tiller.
I'm in the process of looking for a new board now, unfortunately the selection around here ( where I am in NZ) isn't that great since most bow woods round here are considered specialties and not sold in hardware stores.
Rather than scrap the wood do you think it'd be worth trying to make a lite bow out of it (30 - 40#) and self backing it, might it hold in this case? I'd just feel better trying to do something with it than scrapping it completely.. dollars down the drain haha
Also the runoff shown is pretty much right at at the end of the board.
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Can you not access a small diameter tree, does not have to be big in diameter if you want to make a light bow. ;D
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can you not order staves off of Ebay from New Zealand?
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Can you not access a small diameter tree, does not have to be big in diameter if you want to make a light bow. ;D
We don't have the right tree species growing in nz as far is im aware.
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can you not order staves off of Ebay from New Zealand?
I just thought I would be better off being able to inspect the wood in person before purchasing it but I suppose it may be the better option
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There has to be a native NZ species that is good for bows. Anything else just doesn't make sense.
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Don't you have Beech in New Zealand? I've seen a few bows made out of that.
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The main New Zealand & Australia options include NZ - Tawa, Rewarewa (probably), Manuka/Kanuka (NZ Tea-Tree) OZ - Osage Orange, Acaias (Wattles) (eg Blackapple, Gidgee Myal/Boree etc)
Tasmanian Myrtle, Spotted Gum, Alpine Ash, Silver Ash
Pacific regions :- Bamboo, Lancewood (NB this is *NOT* NZ Lancewood),
Black Palm
also:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_trees_native_to_New_Zealand
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That board won't make it to 40 lbs. It might make 20 # with a linen backing but no guarantees.
I would not use it.
Jawge
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I found a list of hardwood suppliers in New Zealand(first link). It might be worth a call or two. If you need to determine if the wood is good for bow making check out the second link.
http://www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers/ (http://www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers/)
http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/bow-woods/ (http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/bow-woods/)
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I'm not sure what silver ash is (birch maybe?), but if you have access to black palm I've known bowyers in the tropics to make good use of this wood--similiar properties to bamboo I believe. Also, what is called gum in austrailia, and many parts outside the USA is a tropical eucalyptus tree. There are many sub-species of eucalyptus but what is sold as hardwood lumber is similar in weight and strength to oak though not as shock resistant.
I wouldn't be afraid to use either of these woods.
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Thanks for the info everyone,
as for the possibility of using native trees - I would have access to manuka/kanuka but I think I would prefer to keep it more simple for my first few bows by just using a board + I'd have to wait for it to dry? pretty excited to get into it right away.
I think I'm gonna give my current shitty board ago to 20# or something knowing it'll probably break just as a practice for tillering etc, then move onto a new board with a good grain.
Cheers for the timber suppliers link Dakota Kid, I've found a specialties timber supplier near me that I think may supply potential bow woods, the ones it sells that I think may suit are saligna ( a species of gum tree?) , blackwood, and cedar (not sure which type, making inquiry).. can anyone confirm whether these would suit?
really appreciating all the help I'm getting :)
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You could make a sapling bow from maunk/kanuka pretty quickly if you hewed one of about 3" dia. down to your rough bow dimensions first and kept it indoors or in a warm shed. A few weeks. I did that with a sapling here, and it dried surprisingly quickly.
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Silver ash is in the citrus tree family according to Wiki. Queensland Maple was in the same family. According to the numbers on the wood database it's an average bow wood.
Spotted Gum and Red Ironbark are supposedly the two best options for a native Australian species bow.