Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Shooting and Hunting => Topic started by: DC on October 07, 2015, 01:22:42 pm
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Hopefully I don't open a can of worms here. When you're using an arrow pass and string nock you are guaranteed a repeat arrow position. How do you get that repeatability when shooting off your knuckle? Do you still use a string nock? If so how do you know your knuckle is in the same spot?
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I still use a string knock, handle position tells me if my hand is right.
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I shoot new bows without a string nock. I can feel the string tension on my fingers as I draw telling me everything is even. I do use a floppy rest so arrow placement on the bow is always the same.
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Shooting manchu style here, I do use a string knock and as far as knuckle position goes any of the asian styles of archery hand position/grip is really important so just by making sure I'm using proper bowhand grip I'm in the same position every time.
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when you are shooting through a chrono,, with no clicker or mark on the arrow,, and your get duplicate fps consistently ,, how does your body do that,, its amazing,, to draw the bow to that exact length and exact release,,,
its a little the same shooting off the hand,, you feel the balance of the bow and you duplicate the shot,,I have made alot of bows and had to shoot them in no rest or nocking point,,,and would shoot consistently,,, it may not be as consistent as a rest with nocking point,, but it can be very consistent,,I do use a glued on leather for an arrow rest on my hunting bows,, but would not hesitate to shoot a bow with no rest or nocking point for hunting if need be,, :)
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DC,
Nocking points are very important to me, knowing just 1/8 to low on the string will give me a high kick off my hand...Shooting off the hand puts the arrow closer to my pivot point and allows me a greater degree/range of canting depending on the situation...Only draw back for me is I have sat hours with my shooting hand in position to keep the arrow ready...
Don
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DC,
Nocking points are very important to me, knowing just 1/8 to low on the string will give me a high kick off my hand...Shooting off the hand puts the arrow closer to my pivot point and allows me a greater degree/range of canting depending on the situation...Only draw back for me is I have sat hours with my shooting hand in position to keep the arrow ready...
Don
Can you define "pivot point" for me. I've not heard that before, I don't think.
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DC,
Pivoting would be the grip, the bow/canting...If the arrow is up high on a rest it is further from your pivoting hand and would move more than if on the hand during a change in your cant...Some bowyers or archers try to set the shelf as close as they can to the hand. All this stuff really is a personal choice, I have shot both. I am more comfortable and accurate off my hand, but I'm used to doing that way...I may need to cant differently at times, but I'm a hunter...
Don
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I use a nock on the string but could get by without one. When I was messing around with a short bow I shoot it without a nock after awhile it was easy to put it in the same place consistently. As far as the hand I cut my leather grip to the bottom of the arrow pass. I know I'm in the right place when the Web of my hand is touching the top of the leather grip.
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I find that I am better off without a nocking point. The eye can judge a right angle very accurately, then move the arrow up a little if you think it should be slightly higher than "dead square". If your hand is in a different position from shot to shot, then so will your arrow be if you use a nocking point.
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I'm still learning to shoot my first Osage selfbow. I wanted a very simple bow, so no arrow rest. And while I like shooting off the knuckle I wonder how much my accuracy suffers from inconsistent hand placement. I glued a small peiceof turquoise (stole from wife's earing she didn't even notice) on the handle so when my finger touches it I know I'm real close. Seemed to help but I think my next bow will have some kind of rest..
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I don't see why a nocking point wouldn't help, so I use one. Since I nock higher than the perpendicular with my hand to avoid getting cut by the fletching, I find that it works just as well if not better than an arrow pass; the air is the arrow pass. The arrow gets lifted by being pushed by the string and the fletchings don't cut the hand.
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Even off the hand and your not cutting in a shelf. You still fourm in a handle. Most bows and people dont' need any thing else. I have PAINTED ON, SINEW ON THE BOW WHEWRE THE ARROWS GOING TO PASS.
After you shoot off your hand a while. You would'nt have a problem with that problem.
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Primitive or not Traditional archery is what it is, I'm thinking of building a bow or refitting an existing bow with an adjustable arrow rest. No need to keep Freaking around with the string nock. >:D
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On an ELB I have either a wear mark or inlaid arrow pass telling me where the arrow sits (or the top edge of the leather grip), I have a tied nocking point on the string above where the arrow sits, (or above and below).
I wear an old leather glove with the fingers cut off on my bow hand to avoid the odd abrasion/laceration from a feather.
Del
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Howdy, I normally shoot off the hand, so I'll add my two cents. Hand placement becomes automatic. I can't say how much practice it takes, but it happens. Of course by the time it becomes instinctive there will be a wear mark on your bow, so that may be part of it. You can add a maker's mark at the arrow pass, or add an insert. ( As an aside, I point out the the dadoe for the insert removes far more wood than years of wear could.) Handle shape may also influence consistent hand placement. A handle wrap gives a good visual and tactile feedback to aid hand placement. A more shapely grip with a "pistol grip" will guide the hand to the same place time after time. I often add a nocking point to the string, but unless you shoot three fingers under, the mark need be nothing more than a very thin wrap of bright thread. ie. a visual mark and not a thickened bead. Ron