Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JRMakowski on September 19, 2015, 03:39:58 pm
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Sorry guys for my constant ?'s I got the bow bending a little more even finally, but what i notice is in the re flexed area it doesn't seem to want to bent much at all just thought Id ask before I go to far with wood removal. Ive tried getting some movement there but doesn't seem to change much.
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Ive only made a few recurves and the ones that I have made have all had the recurve in them naturally. So im no expert on the subject but I am fairly sure that the recurve areas of the limb will never be totally bending in line with the rest of the bow. If you do tiller them so they bend in the same arc as the limb then you will make that area bend to much.
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Inner 1/3 is stiff, hinging in the middle, more so apparently on the bottom limb
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Inner 1/3 is stiff, hinging in the middle, more so apparently on the bottom limb
Thats what i see as well I have it marked and haven't touched it in days but cant seem to eliminate it either I figure might be to late, might have firewood soon
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The wood fibres in the hinging part may already be to damaged to recover without reducing draweight significantly. Are you pulling to full draw with the tiller like this?
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could we see an unbraced photo,, thanks B
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I know you are just starting off so I will be direct with you. It will make future bows easier. In the picture you are at full draw with two major hinges in your bow. This bow is hinged too much right now to recover any serious weight. You should never draw the bow any further than what it takes to expose an area that needs work, that might be only 2" draw, always make corrections before you move on. When you roughing out the bow your tapers should be very very minor in thickness, I think this is where you got in trouble, too much thickness taper. When roughing out always leave the outer 1/2 of the limb just a tad stiffer on the long string as it will flex a bit more when you brace it.
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The wood fibres in the hinging part may already be to damaged to recover without reducing draweight significantly. Are you pulling to full draw with the tiller like this?
yes I have exercised the limbs at 28" at least a hundred times (with saftey glasses lol) that's my draw lenght, at 28" it is pulling 44lbs also it has taken just shy of 2" of set, I feel Ive been defeated this round :( But I am happy it happend on a 10$ board and not on a $60 Stave I will prob try removing a little more in hopes I can fix it a little.
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ty guys for the advise kinda bummed, but I have learned a lot! prob should have bought a kit first to start off and get the hang of tillering Im very grateful for all the advise that has been given as I truly am green, I will try another might take me a bit longer as opening day here is Oct 1st and all my free time is spent in the woods until Mid Dec. I did Manage to receive a gift from a friend out west and have been shooting pretty decent so I will be hunting primitive this year just not with my own creation.
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Stick with the boards until you get the hang of it. Most of us broke or ruined several bows before we got one that worked good. You don't need a kit, you did more right than wrong on your last bow, look at it that way.
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Stick with the boards until you get the hang of it. Most of us broke or ruined several bows before we got one that worked good. You don't need a kit, you did more right than wrong on your last bow, look at it that way.
Only sad part I see is as far as a Home depot red oak board it was perfect 3 growth rings running full length, Probably only reason it didn't break. But I do sincerely thank you for the advice
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since you got a bow, start another board bow now,,,, just make it straight ,, dont heat any reflex or nothing,,,,it will kill a deer very dead,, since you have nothing to loose,,, just go for it,,,, with what you learned you can do it in a week,,, :)
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since you got a bow, start another board bow now,,,, just make it straight ,, dont heat any reflex or nothing,,,,it will kill a deer very dead,, since you have nothing to loose,,, just go for it,,,, with what you learned you can do it in a week,,, :)
+1
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Keep it simple. My first bow was a maple board bow. Kept it very basic. I was so scared it would break, but it didn't and have loosed piles of arrows from it. Like BS2010 says, you can build a new one really fast with a board, so giver!
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Go to the local lumberyard and pick up some hickory, its a great bowwood and is very forgiving. like stated before keep it simple, my favorite stlye of bow is either an eastern woodland bow or an AFB. No recurves, no nothing, just a stave and its natural character.
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Ty guys for the advise I have found a local hardwood mill they carry maple hickory and few other hardwoods they said come in Tue to pick thru there stock as its a slow day for em, Thinking I will try to keep it simple this time for sure
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JR, as mentioned above, hickory will make a fine bow and is very forgiving. Get enough for several bows and let it dry really well. Hickory performs best when it's 6-8% MC.......that's dry......very dry. If you're getting the lumber from a mill, it will likely be green. Rough out your bow profile, chase a ring for the back and clamp it to a 2x6 to keep it from warping. Clamping in some reflex is good too. After a couple of weeks, you can put it in a hot car or attic space to dry it faster. Good luck and enjoy. Put your new found knowledge to good use.
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
I like maple for board bows this will get you going and you can use all hand tools but all the deminsions are there you'll get it 😉
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I will say though that for a beginner its not a bad first go. I've seen much worse. And if it makes you feel any better at all, you've got what I call beginner's tiller. As in, everyone has done it and we've all been there. Nothing to feel bad about.
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Did you use a tillering gizmo? It is hard to hinge a limb if you go slow with the gizmo.
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Does t ok? If it is a firstish try call that a win. And for what it is worth, there doesn't look to be a lot of set in the hinging areas in the unbraced profile, if anything it is recurved at around the same spot. If you touch up the inner limb regions and maybe a bit beyond the hinge it looks like you could round out the tiller a good deal without incurring much in the way of string follow. If your recurved sections are pretty much the only bending areas it may well take a good deal or wood removal to match those spots, but as long as no big damage has been done to that area evening it out will increase the safety level and give you a chance to work on tillering out the different limb sections. Worst case you give it to a nearby small child at the end of it.
SOM
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Fix that hinge in the lower limb! It will be good practice.
Mark a big X in pencil right on it on the belly.
With a scraper-like tool scrape above and below it leaving that area alone.
You can leave that bow strung when working that hinge. Take 10 or so short draw pulls and of no more than 10 or so inches.
Repeat until the hinge is gone.
There are a few stiff spots in the top limb. Fixing those will bring the tiller home.
For your first no need to reflex and recurve. Don't use power tools.
When removing wood go a little beyond the problem area to blend it in.
Don't draw anymore than it takes to expose a problem.
The best fix for a hinge is to not get one.
I'm not in a hurry when bowyering so once I string the stave I'm using a scraper-like tool.
My site may help.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
Jawge