Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jeffp51 on June 26, 2015, 12:24:31 am
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At what point would you decide to add a rawhide backing? I am working on a stave right now that has some pin knots on the back that are making me a bit nervous. I would think too many flaws on the back and you just move to a new stick. but this one has a nice natural reflex/recurve to it and an interesting combination of heartwood and sapwood that should be pretty when I am done.
Also Titebond II or Titebond III?
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I like to get mine to at least a low brace before I rawhide. Just to make sure that the string lies close to centre. If you rawhide and need to make any corrections later, your out of luck, and any bow that breaks at brace was probably not destined to be a bow anyways. I like TB3 for rawhide
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+2 with Goat. I've been using hide glue on the last few rawhide backings I've done but TBIII is what I used before.
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I do the same as pat and Goat, except I usually get them to full brace and out to 10/12 inches at least to be sure they don't need any tweaking and also as Goat said if they won't do that on there own they probably ant going to make a bow anyway, Rawhide is a great back but it sure isn't fool proof, it will hold down a splinter but if it has major problems rawhide won't fix that. :) Also I use TB3.
Pappy
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I have come to prefer hide glue for hide backing. Nothing wrong with TB but I think the rawhide just sucks up the hide glue better.
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I also back after reaching low brace, and use TB3. A trick I learned is to soak the rawhide in hot water until it is pliable again and then to wash it real well with dish detergent. Had one backing fail because some small amount of fat and grease was left on it, preventing the glue from holding.
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Another hide glue user here.
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I also back after reaching low brace, and use TB3. A trick I learned is to soak the rawhide in hot water until it is pliable again and then to wash it real well with dish detergent. Had one backing fail because some small amount of fat and grease was left on it, preventing the glue from holding.
Hot is a relative term. Hot enough and your rawhide will be ruined like sinew in too hot water! Warm is good enough, even cold water will do just fine if you are a bit more patient.
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Thank you. Your advice makes very good sense. I did some straightening and bending of tips tonight, along with a light heat treating. We will see what it looks like here in a few days when I get it to a low brace.