Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Knoll on June 09, 2015, 12:21:39 am
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Heated up the limbs to induce a bit of reflex. Apparently got a bit too much heat too close to glue-on handle. Pop!! at upper limb fade. Am considering rasping block into rasp-dust and glue on another one.
But before going to all that work, are there other successful remedies?
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Can you post a picture of it?
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Yep. On the morrow. Past bedtime.
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I do a lot of fiberglass cloth wraps over my billet z-splices that end up hidden under the grip wrap. I really do them out of paranoia, but if you got some epoxy in the lift and clamped it and then did that it could work. It's hard to say without a pic of your bow tho.
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Are you sure you just didn't get it working to close to the handle?
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The heat probably got ya on that one, but usually, the cause and remedy is in prep and gluing practices.
Create nice gradual dips/fades, mate the pieces perfectly, surface prep them with a toothing plane blade, glue them with Smooth On cured with a little heat, and forget about it. No pedestals, no power lams, no sacrifice of working limb length. Done as described, you can let them bend into the glue joint some if ya like. They're not going anywhere.
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Was it that maple bow Mike?
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I agree, heat probably did in the glue on your handle.
If you want a handle that won't lift, glue on a couple of thin wood pieces on first and feather them into your limbs gracefully. The first one on this handle is only about 3/16" thick.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/featheringfadesBBO_zps638d4aee.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/featheringfadesBBO_zps638d4aee.jpg.html)
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Yeak, Chris, it's that maple bow. And, yes, problem is due to lousy pre-gluing prep.
GGood news is that it's lil block glued to back that lifted. That block has been causing me headaches since day I put it on.
BBad news is that my camera is hiding ... AGAIN.
Planning to try Dvs & Eric suggestion. Grind that sucker off & replace with several thin lams using Uni-Bond as adhesive.
Beginning to wonder if this one'll be finished before MoJam! And hoping camera decides to come outta hiding soon.
Thanks, ya'll, for the inputs!!
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Well I don't think your prep had anything to do with it. The "sandwich" riser design will pop again and again, sorry buddy. The suggestion to grind it off is a good one, however in order to get proper fades you will have to extend both directions at least an inch farther. That means you will lose 2" more of limb and Im not sure that bow has that to give, does it?
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Put on a new handle with smooth-on or urac, wrap it with glass, and it will never move...no matter how close to the bend it is.
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Mike is it rhick enough at the handle to use cork instead of a hard lam, if it is a board and full thickness in that area it will work
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Mike is it rhick enough at the handle to use cork instead of a hard lam, if it is a board and full thickness in that area it will work
Yep, there's 3/4" limb thickness where this "block" on back would be located ... + handle block glued to belly.
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Mike Id suggest using all cork if you want to continue with building up the front and back sides as started.