Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: paco664 on March 08, 2015, 03:04:58 am
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i am working on a board bow *(white oak) and was thinking of putting a boo backing on it... my question being can i use boo strips or small slats if you will *(approx 1/4~3/8" wide each x 36") or do i need to have it one piece per limb? this will be put down with knox glue...
as always you guys knowledge is appreciated and obeyed...
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You can join backing strips at the handle with an overlay over the joint. It will be more difficult with boo because of its crowned back though.
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The multiple backing strip technique is going to be way too challenging.
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I have done that many times with no problems. I cover the boo splice with my 4" leather grip. I use unibond800 glue.
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You guys are not reading his post correctly.
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White oak doesn't need a backing, as it is very strong in tension, and not great in compression.
Knox gelatin in not a great glue for wood to wood applications.
Narrow strips of bamboo can be placed side by side to form a wider backing, but it is really challenging. It's difficult to get them seamlessly staggered.
A backing is strongest when it's continuous from one nock to the other. It is possible to join them in the handle, but it may need a lam on top of it, and at least a stiff handle.
All in all, I can see too many hurdles along the road. I would advice you to change your plan.
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Oop's I did read it wrong.. No I would not attempt that...
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Thanks fellas.. I'll search for better bamboo. ..
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As Darksoul stated, white oak is a very tension string wood. It is actualy used to back other woods (I really love white oak backing over ipe). So the question is- Why do you want to back it? Is the grain not straight?
And why bamboo?
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As Darksoul stated, white oak is a very tension string wood. It is actualy used to back other woods (I really love white oak backing over ipe). So the question is- Why do you want to back it? Is the grain not straight?
And why bamboo?
the grain is straight and pretty.
i wanted to back it to raise the draw weight and to minimize any chance of breakage.
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Call the lumberyard and you'll find Ipe down here. I did. My learning curve bows were maple backed Ipe. They can be very fast shooters.
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Call the lumberyard and you'll find Ipe down here. I did. My learning curve bows were maple backed Ipe. They can be very fast shooters.
the only place i found that listed Ipe was a marine place in fort lauderdale. i called and they said it was a special order for them and the price made blood squirt out of my nose.
there is a hardware place here in miami where i can get red/white oak, they also had ash,bubinga,teak,purple heart, poplar and several more i can't remember.
so if you know a place i can pick up the Ipe text it to me please. i'm just trying to get a bow across the finish line.
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You will have a better chance of breakage with the boo than with a white oak backing. I stopped making boo backed bows because the boo was too undependable for me.
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What are the dimensions of your bow and what's your target draw weight?
You can add a white oak or hickory strip on the back and it will increase the draw weight. Boo is just too damn strong and needs a strong belly wood such as ipe, osage or yew.
If the grain is straight on the back, there is no reason the should fail. If you want to be on the safe side, a rawhide, linen, silk or even paper backing will do a good job making sure no splinters are raised.
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You'll probably want to toast the heck out of the belly with a heat gun and some oil - Crisco before you start tillering. It'll help to compress the belly cells to reduce set. White oak is notorious.
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I would not use oil on a belly before toasting. It helps prevent scorching and I think that's what you want. I oil wood to be bent or straightened but not for belly tempering.
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You'll probably want to toast the heck out of the belly with a heat gun and some oil - Crisco before you start tillering. It'll help to compress the belly cells to reduce set. White oak is notorious.
i just finished toasting the belly and put a nice reflex on the limbs. when cool i will get back to tillering.
thanks for the suggestions
i think i may have a winner here i haven't tested the poundage but i have it bending nicely along the length of both limbs and i am taking my time *(for once)
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with much thanks to all who commented and offered advice and special thanks to parnell... we have success *(ish)... just need to put a finish on it..
white oak board
70" ttt
67.5 ntn ~45@29" i know the tiller isn't perfect but i had it CLOSE *(closer than it is now) and screwed up and ended up losing 11lbs of draw by chasing perfect..
(http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr226/barton664/20150309_200503.jpg) (http://s486.photobucket.com/user/barton664/media/20150309_200503.jpg.html)
and the money shot... excuse the tattoos and messy house *(and dose of ugliness you'll get if you look at my face)
(http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr226/barton664/20150309_202414.jpg) (http://s486.photobucket.com/user/barton664/media/20150309_202414.jpg.html)
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Loosing 11 pounds kinda sucks, but the end product looks good. The tiller may not be perfect but its pretty even.
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Paco, If your draw length is 28" you could shorten both limbs so that your working limb to nock is 28". That would get the draw weight back up a bit. Looks like limbs are bending too much mid limb. On board bows I keep
the limbs exactly the same thickness from fade to tips. I'll start at about a half inch thick on a 6 ft bow with stiff handle. It will floor tiller right off. Then depending on draw length remove more belly evenly. The elliptical tiller will come from the tapered side profile. I use a power hand planer to get that even thickness on boards and fine tune the tiller with belt sander or scraper. Just a tiny change in thickness variation will give you hinges or wip tilled ends. cheers fiddler49
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Paco, If your draw length is 28" you could shorten both limbs so that your working limb to nock is 28". That would get the draw weight back up a bit. Looks like limbs are bending too much mid limb. On board bows I keep
the limbs exactly the same thickness from fade to tips. I'll start at about a half inch thick on a 6 ft bow with stiff handle. It will floor tiller right off. Then depending on draw length remove more belly evenly. The elliptical tiller will come from the tapered side profile. I use a power hand planer to get that even thickness on boards and fine tune the tiller with belt sander or scraper. Just a tiny change in thickness variation will give you hinges or wip tilled ends. cheers fiddler49
thanks for the tips i'll apply those to the next one... i may shorten these limbs a bit more to get the power back right now they are 33 5/8ths from center... i stained the bow and applied a rawhide strip wrap on the handle *(which will probably look like spit when it dries but i'm tryin ya know.. :P) and have to wait for that to dry...
i flexed it like a dummy and thought i had cracked something... then remembered the rawhide/knox glue drying and was able to breathe again after a few mins...
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Way to go! That's about a million times better than my first one. You done real good! Have you sent an arrow flying out of it yet?
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oddly enough...
went today to buy a couple arrows and pick up some spectra to spin me a string and when i got back it was laying on the tile floor where it had fallen.. there were 3 cats *(my wifes) looking at me with guilty eyes...
i strung it and gave a few light pulls and it broke in half on the upper limb... apparently the cats knocked it over and it cracked something when it hit the ground *(or it was all my fault for building a crap bow)
anyway... it's toast...
anyone want stir fried cat with lo mein noodles?
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I think the cats did you a small favor. ;)
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I think the cats did you a small favor. ;)
i guess.. i dunno...
there may be an "accident" around the house in the near future... >:D
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Well show us where it broke and we'll decide from there.
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Well show us where it broke and we'll decide from there.
I called swmbo for a photo and it's already gone en la basura...
I should have taken photos earlier
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anyone want stir fried cat with lo mein noodles?
I think I've had that :( Tough about the bow.
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i honestly ain't that fluffed up about the bow... i am out 6$ for the wood and it was 100 times better than the last one i attempted...
i'll buy another board and read and absorb more info from you guys...
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Well, I always suspect grain run outs on boards.
Straight grained tip to tip is the best with a ru out or 2 allowed depending on the weight of the bow.
Jawge
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Sorry to here about the bow. See if you can find a cabinet shop and try some maple or even better hickory. You might pay a little more at the cabinet shop but a good 72" 1x6 can yield you 3 good 64" bows. Go to Jawges site and look at his info on choosing a good board and that might help you pick a dandy next time. Keep those shavings flying and like a good wine it gets better with time.