Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: son of massey on March 05, 2015, 11:29:54 am
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I am going to take a foray into working with split shaft arrow woods and was wondering about suggested starting diameters for 50-60 pound spines hunting arrows. I know some fiddling will be required on my part, I just wanted to get close before dealing with spine reduction. I know standard shaft sizes but am unclear about how much cariance one ought to expect with different woods. I plan to start with hop hornbeam, black cherry, ERC, and hackberry. Any thoughts as to what diameter I should initially make dowels with to get started? I have some HHB and cherry drying and have a hackberry and a few cedars I have my eyes on for this. I also have a willow that's gotta come down anyway as well, so that is another possible option.
SOM
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3/8" is a good starting point.
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Thanks, that is one of the dowel jig sizes I was planning on starting off with in the absence of suggestions. For anyone familiar with a number of split shafts is there a striking difference in final shaft diameter or not so much?
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You will probably get a pretty good spine range even from the same stock and with the different woods so. You will probably have to do some experimenting. Keep us posted.
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Save yourself some time and money.
Just go straight through and start building shoot arrows. Anybody can run a dowling mechine. And face it a few years down the line you might thank me. Because I know you've just changed from buying your arrows to makeing them.
I promass you shoot arrows fly just as good as dowl arrows from a selfbow. I shot dowls for 10 years.
All though I've never did it I'll bet shoot arrows fly good from a glass bow if there made for the bow.
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Save yourself some time and money.
Just go straight through and start building shoot arrows. Anybody can run a dowling mechine. And face it a few years down the line you might thank me. Because I know you've just changed from buying your arrows to makeing them.
I promass you shoot arrows fly just as good as dowl arrows from a selfbow. I shot dowls for 10 years.
All though I've never did it I'll bet shoot arrows fly good from a glass bow if there made for the bow.
Thanks for the suggestion, but you are incorrect in assumptions. I have shot shoots for years and was interested in trying a method I have never gotten around to using, and doweling jigs aren't all that hard to make (I am not buying a machine). Also, we have few suitable shafts in the yard but a lot of wood gets cut for the fireplace. I am cutting it anyway, setting a few longer cut sections aside to dry is not an appreciable investment in time.
I am especially interested in reports of split timber shafts remaining straight longer than shoot shafts. Besides the time and money considerations is there a reason you would advise against split shafting?
SOM
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SOM, if you start with straight wood you should get shafting that will stay straight. Proper seasoning, like with bow wood and shoot shafting, makes a more stable arrow.
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Split shafts are usually stronger and more durable. There is a posting on the thread for split bamboo flight arrows, also google split bamboo fly rods.
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I've been making my own shafts for 13 years now. 3/8" - 1/2" is a good place to start depending on the final diameter you're looking for. The closer to the heartwood the stiffer the finished shaft will be for a given diameter. Note that this does not always hold true since every tree is different but is a good generalization. 1/2" square stock is good for 3/8" and 23/64" finished shafts. 3/8" is good for 11/32" and 5/16" finished shafts. Wood species will also be another deciding factor in spine. Beware os pinholes, wormholes, grain run-off, and sap pockets. Heartwood/sapwood combinations within the same shaft is also not good. Trial and error will teach you more than any book will when it comes to making shafts. Take your time and good luck!! :) Show us pics of your finished shafts.
G