Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: CrazyHorse1969 on March 04, 2015, 12:07:04 pm
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I chased a ring, removed a TON of wood, took my time, had this Black Locust stave floor tillered, and started to do some light sanding with 150-grit sandpaper before I went to the next stage of tillering. Then this happened to the back of the bow near the upper limb. (By the way, I sanded off the blood smears from where that splinter pierced the side of my hand.) I was shooting for a 62" bow (60" nock-to-nock). Am I screwed? Should I cut it shorter? I would have to take 4 1/2" off. Would I have to cut BOTH limbs shorter? Or, could I cut just the one limb because there is not much taper to this bow? Would I be able to get this to a 27" draw at a length of 58"? Boy, what a crummy way to start the day.
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Not screwed at all. You need to rasp in facets on the limb edges of the back and belly anyway and doing that will take that right out of there. You will be fine.
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How wide is that area? It doesn't need to be over 5/8", and that's max.
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Im the "Good" Chris....
Now that thar is funny:)
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Not screwed at all. You need to rasp in facets on the limb edges of the back and belly anyway and doing that will take that right out of there. You will be fine.
Could you explain "facets on the limb edges"? Sorry, I am not sure what that means.
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dont believe you have an issue, like Roy said. I would glue it now because it's easier at this point but you will wind up filing most (if not all) of it out.
rich
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We don't want to leave the edges of the limbs square. So we use a rasp and rasp off the square limb edges on the front and back of the bow, sort of like at a 45 degree angle, then round them over with sand paper.
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Crazyhorse, if you don't get what they're saying, I'll explain. Firstly, the tip may not need to be as wide as it is; in which case, you can narrow the tip on the splintered side, removing the splinter. Secondly, the edges of the back of the bow should be rounded. This "faceting" would likely remove that splinter, even if you kept it at its current width.
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How wide is that area? It doesn't need to be over 5/8", and that's max.
1" at the widest pint and tappers to 1/16" at the narrowest point.
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We don't want to leave the edges of the limbs square. So we use a rasp and rasp off the square limb edges on the front and back of the bow, sort of like at a 45 degree angle, then round them over with sand paper.
Got it! Thanks!
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Crazyhorse, if you don't get what they're saying, I'll explain. Firstly, the tip may not need to be as wide as it is; in which case, you can narrow the tip on the splintered side, removing the splinter. Secondly, the edges of the back of the bow should be rounded. This "faceting" would likely remove that splinter, even if you kept it at its current width.
Understood. Thanks!
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good advice from above, you still have a bow,, :)
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One last thing before I get back to working. Do I HAVE to glue it? Or, can I either simply narrow the limbs or begin to facet the edges?
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good advice from above, you still have a bow,, :)
Thanks! This is only my fourth bow, so I was getting freaked out.
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It'll be gone once u thin and round edges
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Do as roy said and u don't need to glue, plus if it's an inch wide narrow it down to about 1/2"- 5/8" to start
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Got it!
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Right at that splinter, I would rasp from the bow tip towards the handle so you don't rip off a bigger chunk. Rasping towards the tip could cause it to pull deeper into the center of the limb. It will be fine, just take your time right there.
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You're probaly screwed, yes. But the tip looks like it can be saved easily. ;D
As said, there's lots of room to go narrower, or alternatively, you could do overlays.
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Also make sure the nocks are smoothed with some sandpaper, as sharp edges concentrate the force of the string and can split off the edge.
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Lemme get this straight, you tried to make a bow, out of wood? If you aren't prepared for a lifetime of wood chips everywhere, sawdust in your hair, reckless driving while gazing at the perfectly straight wood growing on the shoulder of the highway, ( personal driver helps, I married mine so it's not all bad ) and looking at every piece of straight grained wood furniture and thinking, I could make a bow of that, and having a collection of dead animal parts, then yes, you are screwed. Completely.
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Lemme get this straight, you tried to make a bow, out of wood? If you aren't prepared for a lifetime of wood chips everywhere, sawdust in your hair, reckless driving while gazing at the perfectly straight wood growing on the shoulder of the highway, ( personal driver helps, I married mine so it's not all bad ) and looking at every piece of straight grained wood furniture and thinking, I could make a bow of that, and having a collection of dead animal parts, then yes, you are screwed. Completely.
Funny! Your "reckless driving while gazing at the perfectly straight wood growing on the shoulder of the highway" comment (as well as the other ones) was spot on. Been there. Done that.
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Me personally. ..
Still there doing that. .. lol
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Yeah, Mr. Sleek has pretty much summed it up.
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Looks like you got under there with some sandpaper. Been there.
Here's what I would do. I'd get it out of there. Starting from the nock end I'd knife it off. Looks like it is splintering into the nock becasue the grain is going that way so go the other way.
Adjust the nock accordingly. Remove wood from the other side and reshape.
Time to round off all 4 sides with a scraper-like tool and sandpaper.
Jawge
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You could also consider a single side nock design also...just a thought.
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And that's why your a teacher Steve O! Smart, smart, smart!
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No doubt. It's why I get paid the big bucks, my friend. ;D
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I salvaged the limb. I am in the progress of SLOWLY tillering to my draw length right now. So it is still a bow...for now.