Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on February 19, 2015, 07:17:01 pm
-
Quick question for a very stupid mistake. Can nail polish be melted at a low enough temperature to keep from damaging steel? I'll be using a soldering iron. Acetone won't touch it where it is at, I tried.
Thanks,
Kyle
-
What kind of nail polish did you "use"? Acetone normally takes it off, try putting some on a cotton ball, placing the cotton ball on the polish and wrapping it with foil.
-
I used that hard-as-nails stuff as a thread locker on a rifle scope base. I let the action of the rifle soak in acetone about 9 hours and managed to get one of the 4 screws out. If I wasn't having the action tried up while getting the barrel changed I wouldn't worry about it. But the base is in the way of the barrel nut. Before having the smith drill new holes I'm gonna try heating it up and seeing what happens. I used the nail polish since I had lost my bottle of loctite and didn't feel like driving 20 min to town to get more. Paying for it now.
Kyle
-
Wouldn't nail polish remover work??
-
Mo,
Did you try putting a screwdriver in the slot and give it a sharp whack, that will sometimes break the bond? The only other thing I can think of would be to get a screwdriver (or allen wrench) red hot stick into the screw slot and wait for the heat to sink in to the screw as you apply torque. Sorry thats all I got for simple fixes.
rich
-
I did try giving it a good rap with a punch to see if the shock would break it loose and it didn't. I've broke Off 5 #10 torx bits so far. Tomorrow I'm gonna see if a little heat will do te trick. If not then I'll probably have to have it drilled out.
Kyle
-
In aviation when a bolt is stuck we heat the metal around to bolt and that metal expands while the bolt doesnt. We use a graphite like ( maybe graphite ) as a temp indicator. We press the tip down and soon as it starts to melt your done. Remove the bolt easy as can be. That method does not damage the temper of the metal.
Or put the allen wrench in the key hole. Heat the allen wrench up with a torch to let heat transfer into the allen key bolt until a lead pencil starts to melt its tip on the barrel. Then allow it to cool or put a drop of water on the allen key. That should cool it enough to shrink it to remove from the hole.
-
I'm gonna have to agree with sleek.. Heat the metal around the screw
Leroy
-
I tried straight hearing it to see if it would melt it and that didn't work. Tomorrow I'll try heating everything around th screw the way sleek said. I just need to pick up some more bits. Will it make a difference with the base being aluminum?
Kyle
-
Try freezing it. Epoxy will crumble and fall apart when frozen.
-
mix up rubbing alcohol vodka and vinegar works gray formeh gf getting it off white shirts and comforters
-
I would try a hair dryer it should heat it up enough to free it and not damage the metal and or call a gunsmith and ask a lot of times they are glad to give advice.
-
Have you tried any solvents harsher than acetone? Lacquer thinner, and any acetone or toluene based paints are not friends. The lacquer will cause the paint to peel...usually.
Tattoo Dave
-
Go to any aviation repair facility. Ask for mpk. Methyl propyl ketone. Not nice stuff. Absorbs through your skin so bad you can taste it and kills your liver. Works better than anything. Will even remove permanent marker.
-
@ sleek is that anything like methylene chloride? ( I know I spelled that wrong) used that when I was in the fiberglass field of work was some nasty stuff.
-
Methyl Ethyl Ketone should do the trick, also. You can get it where ever they sell Fibreglass.
-
MEK works also. Probably easier to acquire, but not as good as MPK.
-
The local ace hardware here has both mek and mpk.
-
Wow thats awesome! Im gonna check mine.
-
I'll have to see if I can find those stronger solvents and see if they will do the trick. If not then the smith I'm going to have do th work said it would take him about 20 min to remove them and drill them out to the next size larger. So think it's worth removing them myself or just let him handle it, since it's not a big deal to get the screws out until the barrel goes on any way.
So what do you think? Keep playing with it or just let him handle it?
Kyle
-
My gunsmith charges $20/hr if I bring him work. He charges $50/hr if I bring him work I've attempted first.
-
Could you heat it up then try to cool with dry ice. Expanding the area around and shrinking the other part. Getting dry ice might be too much of a pain though
-
why would he drill them to the next size larger? He should be able to drill them out and re-tap the same hole. I have done that many times.
-
It doesn't bother me that he wants to go to the next size larger since I need new screws anyway at this point. But as soon as I mentioned I planned to shoot 200gr bullets at over 2700 fps without a break, he wanted to just for a little extra assurance. Though for the cartridge to do that it needs a 30+" barrel. Which is going to weigh 8-9 lbs on its own. So it shouldn't have much recoil anyway. But might as well let him do it at this point.
Kyle
-
I was going to suggest a soldering gun with small tip