Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on February 17, 2015, 02:15:04 pm
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The MC seems to have stabilized on this OS. I have never worked anything this radical. Is there any floor tillering/tillering advice I should have? I'm wondering about first brace, should it be as early as possible? I'm going to make a stringer. It's 60" tip to tip,not following the curve. I'm thinking something less than 40#@27-28". my draw is 27.5". I'm expecting some of the curve to pull out. I realize I'm diving into the deep end when I can't swim but what the hey, I'll learn lots.
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This is a style is love to do soon. Pretty sure with any style you want to get a steig on it as soon as it's ready for one. A braced profile will look almost triangular. I think for this type of bow it would really help to draw on your back board the unbraced, then braced. So you could really keep an eye on what's bending. The deflex out of the handle can really mess with your eyes
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From the few I've built like that i think there is really to much deflex right out of the fades
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Did you steam bend or dry heat that ocean spray?
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Looks like a potential rocket ship. Your limbs should look almost dead flat at full draw with that amount of deflex. Focus on getting the tips uncurled before you let too much of the deflex get moving, its a balancing act and you need to go sloooow. At that low draw weight I bet you could keep most of your shape.
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Did you steam bend or dry heat that ocean spray?
Steam. It went pretty good. The wood was too thick(3/4-1") and it did split but all the split(and then some) will be removed in the tillering.
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From the few I've built like that i think there is really to much deflex right out of the fades
I wondered about that. One fade came from the factory like that and I bent the other to match.
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Looks like a potential rocket ship. Your limbs should look almost dead flat at full draw with that amount of deflex. Focus on getting the tips uncurled before you let too much of the deflex get moving, its a balancing act and you need to go sloooow. At that low draw weight I bet you could keep most of your shape.
I think "potential" is the key word here :D. I like your advice. I think it will be much easier to get the tips moving first. I was kinda thinking tiller everything at once and that was giving me the willies. I guess I'll get to it.
Thanks everyone
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Send it to me...I'll tiller that...i ain't skeered...looks like fun to me :P
I don't tiller one part of a limb with those....I tiller the whole limb and try to get it "unfolding" on a long string...the only time I use a tree and long strings is on these radical designs so I can see them unfold and make sure I hit weight. The high early draw force at the beginning of the draw can throw you off and can be easy to miss weight. You really need to be able to exercise it standing back watching what parts of the limbs are moving and what aren't. Its all done by eye. You cant put a tiller gizmo or straight edge on the belly to see where to scrape. Its also hard to have it braced at 2-3"...you really have to go to 4" at first brace. So make sure your bend is good before and still have ten pounds to remove. Otherwise it'll be a booger to brace if too much weight. Good luck.
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If the string alignment is good now can I start to narrow the tips/outer limbs? I put it on a long string and 40# moves the tips about 1 1/2".
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Here it is after a bit of tillering. Boy, pictures sure show off the warts and zits. I can see a hinge developing at the left tip. I discovered something. I have both pictures in one folder and if I open them with Windows Photo Viewer I can toggle back and forth like flip cards. Shows some stuff. What I'm seeing is when I draw the bow the fades(the deflex curves) rock like someone tipping their shoulders. The left fade goes up and the right goes down. Is this telling me that I should weaken the right limb? If so, where? Any other things I may not have noticed. Oh, the second picture is 24"@about 38#. I'm going for about that weight at 27-28" so I have a bit of wiggle room.
Thanks
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She is a toughy to tiller no doubt. :o I see what you mean about that slight hinge. It may be ok though. Nice job so far on a challenging profile. . "Is this telling me that I should weaken the right limb? Not sure.. 26" may be the max pull on it.
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I would have sinewed it first so my curves would'nt have stayed. That had made it far better(easyer) to tiller. I've made a few glass recurves in another life. Same princeables.
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I would have sinewed it first so my curves would'nt have stayed.
So my curves wouldn't have stayed? I don't understand, sorry