Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Minuteman on January 21, 2008, 08:57:00 pm
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Am I the only one that doesn't want words and numbers on my bow?
I've thought about writing a draw length and weight on some I've made but just couldn't bring myself to do it.
Any thoughts? ???
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nope. I'm not crazy about writing on bows that I make but do prefer them signed if I get it from someone else.
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For many years I didn't sign any of my bows. Then several years ago it was pointed out that if somebody happens to get one of my bows in the future then they would know who made it and what draw weight it pulled, at the time it was made :)
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I'm like Marc, Sometimes I put the string length on also. Saves guessing.
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It's helpful to know what draw length the bow was tillered for.
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Ill go one step farther. I had the fish and game question the weight of my hunting bow. I showed the weight written on the bow and they left me alone. Justin
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I always add the length,t/t, the draw length and weight, month and year finished and my initials. Most of my bows have names...but not all. Pat
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What Pat said,that way when they pull them to 29 I can say look it says 27 .I
usually put the type wood also if it ant obvious.Like Marc most of my bow wind up
somewhere else in a year or 2 so I want them to know what it was tillered for. :)
Pappy
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I don't... cause i can't figure out how to get the writing to stick :P.
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Our work most people consider a form of art.
It deserves to be signed by its maker.Some day when I
am much older I hope to see someone holding and still admiring my work.
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I never used to sign my bows because my hand writing isn't to pretty, but I have started recently because some of the new owners of my bows have asked me too. I use a fine point sharpie or a paint pen.
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I have an old handmade lemon wood bow and the only writing on it is a set of 2 initials. I wish I had more info about the bow and the builder. We owe it to the future bow nuts out there. ;D Pat
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I guess ya'll have some good points. Its not like I'm cranking out the bows so I don't really have to worry about it. I haven't finished a bow in almost two years. :-[
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Hi,
I write on all my bows. Weight, draw length, and maker. I also name all my bows. Most people who order a bow, also want a personal inscription.
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Which pen is the correct one or works best on wood? How about protecting the wood if a pen had been used? I never did this job, because my modern bows are still a minority.
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I use a fine tip sharpie and then just finish over with Tru Oil,don't rub the first coat until
it dries then just go on with the regular finish.My hand wrighting is awful so my wife dose
all the wrighting.I tell her what to wright and she take care of it.She even comes up with
the name now and then. :)
Pappy
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Okay, I will test it on a scrap piece of wood.
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Same here, I use a fine-tipped Sharpie, or if the bow is dyed a dark color, a white paint pen.
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Same as Pappy except I like to put a coat or two of finish on first, makes for a smoother writing surface
and if ya mess up its easier to sand off
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Is Tru Oil an american marque? I have shellack, tung oil (made of a chinese nut) for example.
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I use a water base marker for all writing on the bow then go over that with a couple coats of Tung oil, then shellac. The shellac will smear the water base marker but the Tung oil will not which is why I use the Tung oil first.
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Hey, uwe
Tru Oil is a gun stock finish, made by Birchwood Casey. It's a semi gloss, and gives a very deep, nice finish. You have to apply multiple coats, and drying time is long. It's worth the effort... it looks fantastic.
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Unfortunately Tru Oil has a Linseed base and Linseed oil has no moisture resistance. I don't consider it as an acceptable finish for a bow.
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Marc, your absolutely right about linseed oil, Im not a big fan of it, however, tru-oil has more than just linseed, thats just the base as you pointed out. Its got some good stuff in there. ;)....Brian
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I use the clear address labels and print out the whatever I want to put on the bow with my computor.
You just stick the label on it and seal over it with Eurathane.
Bill
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i spent about 10 buck on various pens without any satisfaction, I ready A thread on the forum so I bought a quill and ink and now I can say that I'm happy with the results. I know I need to work on my neetness but At least I can see it now.
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Unfortunately Tru Oil has a Linseed base and Linseed oil has no moisture resistance. I don't consider it as an acceptable finish for a bow.
I wasn't aware of this Marc, I've recently switched to tung oil with a few coats of tru oil on top if I want a shine.
The reason I switched is cost, I got tired of paying $6 for two ounces of tru oil.
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It's not a problem if you live in a dry area but if you live where the RH is fairly high then I prefer a finish that has a good moisture resistance. That's why I use a 3 layer finish as I believe it has better moisture resistance, it is more work though
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I got the 2 but what is the 3rd layer Marc, ???I have always used Tru Oil but might reconsider.
I do a lot of Hickory and it is damp here especially in the summer. :)
Pappy
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Edding do a brilliant pen for writing on bows. It is the Edding 8404 Special - Aerospace Marker. As it is for the Aerospace industry it writes on just about anything and is very durable. I found out about them from a friend who makes bows and is involved in making parts for the aero industry.
It has a fine tip, has water based pigment ink and is resistant to many solvents and cotings. Once dry it is light resistant and water resistant on most surfaces.
You can pick them up on ebay for not a lot of money.
Mark in England
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Sharpie does pretty good, I shoot some with a catalyzed varnish and I shoot a coupl of coats, 220 sand the area and write on it. I can then usually dust some over it in a few coats before going on with a wet coat. I have also mixed some 5 minute epoxy and smeared over the writing. Pilot makes some ultra fine paint type markers that work pretty good too.
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Hey, uwe
Tru Oil is a gun stock finish, made by Birchwood Casey. It's a semi gloss, and gives a very deep, nice finish. You have to apply multiple coats, and drying time is long. It's worth the effort... it looks fantastic.
Thanks for clearing up!
I think, after I`ve read the other answers, that when its linseed oil based, its more for for weapons, which don`t bend as bows.
When I got it right, we call it in Germany "Firnisöl". This hardens the cellstructure and thats bad for a bow- it cracks some day. So its better to restore old furniture with it.