Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: cbeers47 on January 26, 2015, 10:58:59 pm
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hey guys this is a bow im working on so far its drawing 60# at 22" just looking for more experienced eyes tell me what you think!! also bow is backed with fiber and made from ipe with tigerwood handel and overlays
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Your going to be hinged at the handle area if you don't get those outer limbs bending. :)
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question i want to leave the limb tips thicker as you see on the ends just because i like the way it looks basically so do i need to take wood off there or just before that?
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No, I can't tell how wide your tips are, (I can see how thick) but was refering to a more even tiller. It appears to me you are tillering close to the handle, and not over the whole limb.....see lots of new bowyers tiller to the point of hinges near the handles. Maybe I am reading it wrong? :)
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now that i think about this im picking up what your laying down and i meant the thickness of the limb tips from where the overlays start to the ends you can see they are drastically thicker than the rest of the limb. maybe im writing it wrong lol anyways thank you for the advice its greatly appreciated
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X2 on getting the limbs working away from the fades, get it bending too much there and that handle will pop off and the way the shelf is cut in it will prolly break there
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More bend in the outer limbs, make sure those tips are nice and narrow ;)
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Do you have it braced or is that still on a long string ?
Pappy
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its still on the long string
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I would get it to low brace as soon as I could and see how it looks then. It will usually look different. :)
Pappy
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No fades = Big trouble
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I will be watching this intently. You look like you have already put a lot of time and work into this bow. You are using a fine bow wood and your general form looks like a very shootable design. How wide are your mid limbs and where do they start narrowing toward the tips? All good advice from those experienced folks above.
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That isn't anything at 22"... ::)
Once the tips ate coming back about 6 or 7 inches, get it braced.
Del
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What is it backed with? Do you have it braced?
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alright guys got home from work and worked on the tiller i see one limb is deff not bending as much as the other still has the flat spot in outter limb the other limb i thought was looking pretty good but ill let you guys chip in and take it from there. thanks for all the advice!! also the bow is backed with fiberglass and iv only used a long string so far ill post the dimensions after i eat
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ok so bow is 68" tip to tip and is 1" 11/16 wide mid limbs through the handle and tapers to just under 1/2" at the tips
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limbs start to tapper 15" 1/2 from the tip which is right about exactly at half the limb
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Backed with fi..fi..fiber..ber......I just cant say it! :-\ :-X
DBar
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It's backed with what :o, you mean the sheetrock tape right
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ok guys im back i was working on the tillering some today and the fiberglass popped off the back do i need to get a backing on the ipe or do you guys think it will hold im trying to find bamboo but its not easy to come buy around me or at least so it seems
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Fiberglass is a dirty wood around here.
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yeah i found that out my question really is do you think i need to back it at all target is 60# @ 28-30''
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alright got her braced and pulled to 26'' @ 60# guys hows the tiller looking thanks for the help i got about 2-4 inches to get out of her
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No fades = Big trouble
I see fades, but they are QUITE abrupt as he says. This means the first few inches of the limb from the handle should be not bendingat all, and unfortunately that is where you are currently bending the most.
EDIT: this comment was made regarding your first set of photos. It does not apply to most recent pic.
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Stop a sec, Cheers. Yer doing ok, but there are a couple of major, but easily overlooked things going on here to think about before you finish.
1. Backing is up to you. I have seen a decent number of ipe self bows. BUT, Ipe grain is notoriously hard to read. If you took the glass off the front and are looking at finishing the bow without backing, take a LONG slow look at the back, in good light, with a magnifying glass. Ipe is hard, stiff, and has great tensile strength, but if the grain is bad, that just means that when it goes, it goes.
2. On long string or braced, youy NEED to pull the bow evenly. On your posted pics, it is obvious that the tiller stick is NOT 90 degrees from the center of the bow, AND it is different one each photo (unless the photos were taken at much different angles, or the bow was turned one way or the other).
Pull the bow to a notch and make sure the cradle on your tillering stick is in exactly the same place each time,
AND that the same spot on the string goes in the notch each time,
AND that the part of the string that goes in the notch is exactly behind the place on the handle that goes in the cradle. Mark it.
3. It looks like your bottom limb is longer than your top limb. Generally, for this style of bow, you want your limbs the same length, or the top one slightly longer and bending slightly more.
4. NO ONE can really tell you what proper tiller should look like from only the side. We NEED a front view of the bow, and stats like width and length to really help nail it down.
5. If your backing lifted, why? did you use the same glue on the handle build-ups?
Yes, you can leave the tips thick. The thicker they are, the narrower they can be. The width on most bows would be decreasing toward the tips, anyway. This means the width should be decreasing even more (or CAN taper faster, or narrower) be3cause your tip is thickened.
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thank you springbuck, ok i posted dimensions back a few days ago should be towards top of page 2. i didnt even think of the tiller stick not being strait!! i will improve that before i move on any further. also the backing was fiberglass. resin was the glue and it separated after a while the handle and overlays were glued by a 2 part epoxy i cleaned both woods with acetone before gluing up. i had one problem at first with an overlay breaking off but it was because i clamped to tight pushing most the epoxy out. i re-glued and havent had a problem yet. as for limb length if i measure to from each tip to where handle area starts they are exact same. the arrow rest is about 1 1/2 inches off middle of the bow. thank you for the advice if i can tell you anymore or if you think i need better photos i can do so once i get the tiller stick figured out i will post new photos with the new methods. thank you again
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Looks flat on the right out of the fade for about plus or minus 10"
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If the tips end up narrower than their thickness, it is an invitation for them to bend sideways when strung.
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Ah, thanks.. I couldn't see the second set of pics and posts of yours while I was typing my post.
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okay well here i have the improved tiller stick and i decided to epoxy the fiberglass back on seems to be holding good here it is drawing 60# @ 26'' . i thought its looking pretty decent im going to sand down everything and she where its at after sanding
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So let me get this straight, you have fiberglass on the back , this should probably be in around the campfire
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well for those who wanted to see i basically got it done just waiting on snakeskins
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and one more
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;)
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Nice bow just in the wrong section, Sorry no FG on the bow forum. Fits fine here. Missed that the first time I read and posted,you said fiber, I was thinking plant fiber. ???
Pappy
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Congrats!!