Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Vgo750 on January 10, 2015, 05:03:45 pm
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I have this osage stave. The tips really are pretty close to aligned but the handle sweeps out of alignment. How would i bring the handle area in line? Should i steam the handle area and then clamp it down while the tips are clamped down against a flat surface?
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy54/91mr2_album/osage%20orange/6EC73971-655B-4F45-86E9-B9778A404217.jpg) (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/91mr2_album/media/osage%20orange/6EC73971-655B-4F45-86E9-B9778A404217.jpg.html)
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I'd build it just like it is. No need to straighten it out. Once you get to first brace and see how the string tracks you may have to adjust t then.
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You should move your handle area so that the deepest part of the dip becomes the arrow pass.
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Prefect stave for a center shot, lucky you!
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Wow really!? Well thats great news because i have the belly split off this stave that does the exact same thing!
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If you do move it, yes, narrow it as much as possible, steam it, but don't use the tips so much as mid limb or closer to the handle with your fulcrum with a healthy clamp on the handle. You can also hang weight off the limb to pull on the handle. Many times I have simply hand bent it around a pole or whatever and just lean against it for about 5 minutes or so. Just depends on the wood, how much movement you need, how much lean-time you can handle.
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Pretty common that I need to bend a handle section to line up tips. A little movement in the handle moves the tips a lot. I usually just put some clamps outside the handle area after I have narrowed it and heat it up slowly pulling it in with the clamps. I heat both sides.
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If it were me I'd do as above stated and make deep bend the arrow pass. Stretch astring from tip to tip and only mine the handle enough to bring the string close to the curve accounting for arrow thickness and you will have a center shot bow with out carving an ugly shelf! You lucky dog!
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I like the idea of getting it strung before you bend it,, and making the arrow pass at the dip,,, then see what needs to be done,,
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Here's a pic of the setup I use for bending the handle in order to align the tips.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Bow%20Making/HandlePress2.jpg) (http://s793.photobucket.com/user/gferlitsch/media/Bow%20Making/HandlePress2.jpg.html)
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Vgo750,
I was holding a straight edge on my screen and that bow looks to be center shot and maybe beyond. Being a finger shooter I am not a fan of center shot bows, that's me, some may like them. I would do as already stated and get it braced if your tree will allow. You can always make a handle adjustment later...
Don
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Yall are great! Thanks for all the suggestions. I will adjust the layout to make centershot and just get to reducing the thickness...i think my tree will allow for the sweep.
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Yep, I'm with these guys. You need to do this thoughtfully, of course, but if I put a snake bend like this where the "pressure point" of the handle area is (basically where the base of my thumb goes ) and can line that up with the tips, 1....2....3, I leave it.
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That's a nice looking stave...if it lines up, I'd leave it as is...but thats just me. 8)
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Here is where my string is lining up. Do yall think i need to move it over a smidge?
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy54/91mr2_album/osage%20orange/7894A857-31CA-4993-B6D3-769AB54B0274.jpg) (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/91mr2_album/media/osage%20orange/7894A857-31CA-4993-B6D3-769AB54B0274.jpg.html)
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy54/91mr2_album/osage%20orange/05DEAD7B-CA9E-41A8-9228-9F86C926AE1A.jpg) (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/91mr2_album/media/osage%20orange/05DEAD7B-CA9E-41A8-9228-9F86C926AE1A.jpg.html)
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy54/91mr2_album/osage%20orange/1B935D99-B814-41D2-9660-15963DA70A7B.jpg) (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/91mr2_album/media/osage%20orange/1B935D99-B814-41D2-9660-15963DA70A7B.jpg.html)
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Not too bad, may need a little adjustment. Patrick
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yes, otherwise it will be difficult to pull without it rolling in the bow hand. Its a good candidate for a little movement so the string lines up better along that lower limb.
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I'd try to get the string centered with the bottom limb a little more, you'll still be close to center shot.
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Looks good and you won't have to bring it over that far. Here's one I finished up last August for a little 5 yr old. She's Hailey's bow, a present from her Granma Jackie.
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moving the tips over maybe a little easier than messing with that natural kink. every time I've ever left it like that the string always nails my arm
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Last summer I made one from a stave that had a natural kink in the center, 'tho not as much as yours. I absolutely love the way it shoots having the arrow closer to center and it doesn't twist in my hand at all.
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/Wooden%20bows/ostavebow12_zpsc6550b2d.png)
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/Wooden%20bows/ostavebow11_zpsfd7870d9.png)
Hailey's bow looks very cool, Fred.
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Wait a minute....has it been up to at least a 4" brace? Maybe its an illusion I'm seeing but it barely looks braced if not at all. If that's the case he won't know till the limbs are bent slaved to the string. Plus the string at the bottom is over to the offending side and he also has room to move the string over a smidgen by just removing some wood on one side at the nocks. Get the brace up higher and remove wood at the nocks first before deciding you have to make a heat correction. Maybe you do,and maybe ya don't. It'll be close.