Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JoJoDapyro on December 04, 2014, 12:29:16 am
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Has anyone made a purple heart board bow? Any advice?
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I have not, but remember seeing quite a few. I do remember that some worked and some chrysaled I think it might depend on the density of the purple heart and the tiller. Sure is a pretty wood
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Not very good as a belly wood, will work, but tiller carefully.
VMB
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I made the wife a maple backed purpleheart bow this last year, it's a light weight bow but flings an arrow with attitude, imho it should be backed
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It all depends on the grain. If it's straight then a self bow is possible. Purpleheart isn't weak in tension but it is in compression. A trapped back is very advisable! I've made a few elb's with hickory backs...just to see...and they have all held up. Watch that tiller!
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What would be your (all of you) suggestions for layout? Thickness wise. I am thinking Mollegabet, 66 inches long. Ebony overlays for the statics. Thanks again.
Also, if it isn't good in compression, wouldn't you add a belly of another wood? Because trapping the back and adding a hickory backing would add to the compression... Or am I missing something?
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I've made quite a few backed purpleheart flatbows in the past few months. I back them with a more gentle material, like maple or ash. Most have been 1.5" wide at the fades and a straight taper pyramid design. Just don't ask too much in terms of draw weight. Most I've made have been for ladies, and <40#. They all turned out very nice actually. Very little set and nice shooters.
I think it might not be the best choice for a more stressed design like a mollie.
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I think almostpig hunter has a video of one (Boarior Bows).
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I agree with Adam go pyramid but I'd go 1 3/4" at the fades
If I remember aph's bow that was mentioned crysaled
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My question now is, Does it need to be used as a backing, or does it need to be backed? If compression strong it would need to be backed, if tension strong it would need to be a backing. What would purple heart back well? The only wood that is readily available in board form is Red Oak. I assume I can get others from a specialty wood store.
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I think almostpig hunter has a video of one (Boarior Bows).
Sure does, nice little bow too! Patrick
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IMO. you need to back it, I'd trap it some too
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IMO. you need to back it, I'd trap it some too
+1
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OK, would red oak work as a backing, or would you suggest something else? I can get white oak, but not really anything else. Well, I do have mountain maple, but it is a stave that would have to ripped down to backing strips.
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jojo if you have white oak use that, its a great backer
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What matters is the grain!!!
IF the grain is dead straight then no need to back it.
IF it isn't then yes back it.
Just the same as when trying to decide wether to back any board or not.
The selfbows I made from it came from a flawless board.
I only mentioned backing it with hickory to show that it was possible. It would be better to back with maple/ash.
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I would love to back them with hickory, but we don't have any available here in Utah in board form. All I can get is Ash, or red/white oak. And I am not sure about the type of Ash. The grain on the wood is the best they had available. It is just at $12 a board foot it gets a little scary >:D
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So after about 3 hours on the rasp I'm gonna have to call this stuff Purple Hard. Cut out with a band saw, reduced limb thickness to just about 1/2, and went to town with the rasp. It is under 3/8 now, and I bet would still be about a 100# when the other limb is done as well.
One limb down, 7 to go!
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Joe there is hickory in board form at McBeath's in Salt lake City. There is also a place here in Utah County. Look up hardwood lumber in utah on a search engine.
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When I checked on Thursday Macbeath didn't have any hickory. I have an Idea though, Thanks Jeff!
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We decided to rip the 1x2's down to 1/2 X 2's. Here is the result. New blade, big Rockwell table saw.
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Did you smoke your saw?P/H is the hardest wood I have ever worked,that's why I only tried it once.my design wasn't right, took a boat load of set and I broke it on purpose!pretty wood is the only that I like about it.not to discourage hope you make a shooter!
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recently did some purple heart tip overlays. Yeah, the stuff is hard. can't imagine doing a whole bow with it. looking forward to the final results.
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LOL, Nope, didn't smoke the saw. Just the wood. It took about 5 minutes each cut, and we ended up cutting an inch each side. It even smokes in the band saw. So hopefully the thinner ones will be easier to finish. There will be 6 total bows made out of this wood. All will be backed.
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Yeah it got a little smoky heres a close up of joe and our buddy mr. Hatt
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Lol. Reminded me of being at the bar. >:D
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I would love to back them with hickory, but we don't have any available here in Utah in board form. All I can get is Ash, or red/white oak. And I am not sure about the type of Ash. The grain on the wood is the best they had available. It is just at $12 a board foot it gets a little scary >:D
I can show you where to get hickory here in Utah.
The deal wioth purple heart is that it is VERY hard, VERY stiff, but not very elastic in compression. Paduak and cumaru are the same. Shreddy, yet brittle. Just prepare for thst. I have seen several, and made one good laminated bow from it.
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It is the hardest wood I have ever dealt with. If anyone ever decides to work with it wear gloves, it get a ton of slivers, and they don't seem to even hurt, kinda strange. It tears out really bad. It is hard to cut, It even makes my band saw blade wander (Wont cut straight up and down). So far I have never had any issues gluing it up (Rosewood gives me fits). More to come. They are getting backed with the dreaded **********. So I guess I'll post photos and blur out the back! >:D
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If I was to try it again I would go 2" at the fades, 66" ttt. And a 3/32 " maple or ash backer. Pyramid.
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it does throw slivers like a porcupine
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Popped a handle last night. May go with a stronger glue the next go around.
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If you popped the handle, it's not likely the glue's fault... it's a design problem.
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I would agree if the glue join didn't look strange. It almost looks like some of the glue didn't dry right. They were glued Monday, left clamped for 48 hours. I cut the final dimensions last night on one and gave it a little flex and it popped. I about messed my pants at the thought of braking such an expensive board. I looked it over, and the entire handle fell off. I had the handle of my first board bow pop also, but it is still on to the point that I would have to pry it the rest of the way off. I am hoping that these all work out. I understand that failure is something that happens to everyone. I just hope it isn't on a bow that isn't mine. I'll get some photos tonight and get them posted.
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Popped handle?more likely the fade to handle transition wasn't right than the glue.Very common mistake for new guys,but I've been wrong before!lol!
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Pat B posted a really good example on how to do it the right way.think it was a hickory backed degame(lemon wood) american longbow
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Due to time, I am calling it on at least a few of these. I still have the one that is mostly formed using my rasp, but the ones cut to 1/2 on the table saw are going to be cut and used for dress up on other bows. Even the fiberglass resin isn't sticking on this wood. Back to the drawing board.