Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: nlester on December 02, 2014, 11:25:45 am
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So, I assume you chase a ring just like you would with hedge?
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Yes, it's best to use only heartwood in mulberry. However, if there is not enough heartwood for a bow, you can consider to maintain some of the sapwood in the finished bow. Just as you would with osage, basically. When mulberry is properly ring chased into one continuous layer, you don't need a backing.
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DarkSoul,
That's what I figured. I appreciate the affirmation. Thanks!
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ו too have a mulberry stave seasoning. I cut about a month ago, split it and sealed the ends. Do I de-bark it and chase a ring just like osage or there are some differences?
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Treat mulberry just like osage but make the bow a bit longer and wider.
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I find mulberry sapwood to NOT be as useless as osage sapwood. On red mulberry, I chase rings and treat it as mentioned, like lower end quality osage.
But, I have had pretty darn good success with lumpy WHITE mulberry staves, from the long branches that shoot up after people "top" their trees. THAT stuff acts, to me, like excellent white wood: top quality rock elm or something similar. Med flat, a little wide, and heat treated, it makes FANTASTIC shooters with lots of waves, dips, and bumps. Cool stuff.
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What is low quality osage?
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What is low quality osage?
;D +1
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What is low quality osage?
The stuff I buy on ebay sometimes......
But, you know, say you cut some osage that feels physically light, light yellow, lots of winter wood, small summer rings. You treat that like mulberry.