Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: TheDukesArchers on October 02, 2014, 06:11:27 pm
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When do you apply the raw hide backing? I'm going to apply it before tillering, is that ok to do so?
When it comes to knots, do I smooth them out before covering, or just put the rawhide right over?
DA :)
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DA, I put super glue on each knot, let it cure and lightly scrape off the excess. I then size the bows back with glue and let it cure out. Then I soak the rawhide in warm water until pliable, remove it from the water and roll it up in a towel to remove the excess water. I then spread glue on the rawhide and the bow's back and lay the rawhide down. I like to do this with 2 pieces of rawhide and overlap it at the handle.
If the wet rawhide drapes well over the bow I usually don't wrap it but if not I wrap with strips of old bed sheet. After an hour I remove the strips of cloth and do an initial trim on the rawhide with a sharp razor. I then work my way from the handle out each limb squishing excess glue and air pockets out from under the rawhide. Now, set it aside to cure. I like to give it at least a day and sometimes longer then use a fine file and sanding block to dress the edges. Be sure all of the moisture that the bow sucked up from the glue and wet rawhide before sealing the bow.
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Thanks for that, Pat. :)
I can do it before tillering though? I was going to back it before even starting the floor tillering process.
DA
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I do just like pat. And yes before tillering is fine. Actually, I squeeze out excess glue and air before wrapping, then let it set a couple hours, then remove the wrapping. Be careful notto pull up the backing when removing the wrapping. You can leave the wrap on until fullly cured, but it may leave wrap marks impressed into the rawhide.
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You can add a rawhide backing any time. Waiting too late might be too late! ;) ...but it is never too late if the bow need it.
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I just started using it. For me if it is thin I clamp it flat and trace out strips that are a bit wide. Then do as pat above.
For thick dog bone rawhide it take me a few days soak to untie it then clamp it flat between wood and cardboard. Then I grind/scrape any excess fluffy stuff greasy spots down to good material.
Theni soak it for like an hour in hot water while the bow is sized with a thin coat. Then I use hobby clamps to hold the pieces in place while I glue both wood and rawhide in small sections.
I use 3" wide sections of Lycra from the discount bin at the fabric store to hold down both. Deer and goat rawhide only need this. The thick stuff I follow up with bike tire tubing with a small gap between wraps. Massaging the heck out of it the whole way.
Next day I remove the tire tubing but leave the Lycra for 2 more days.
When I unwrap it I use a rasp to trim it and a belt sander to smooth out the thick stuff as it will be bumpy.
When completely dry the back can be scraped to smooth out and tidy up the rawhide for
a clean smooth finish.
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Ok, so I will add it before I tiller then. Just need to make sure I do it right, straight of the bat.
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I've used rawhide on yew and I install it after floor tillering. Jawge
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Be sure you don't have any heat manipulating before you add the rawhide. If you get the bow to low brace you can be sure you don't need to use heat.
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Be sure you don't have any heat manipulating before you add the rawhide. If you get the bow to low brace you can be sure you don't need to use heat.
Pat mate, I'm a total noob to yew bows. How would I know if the bow will need heat treatment?
Currently just drawing out the centre line down the stave :D
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If you get the bow to low brace you can see how the string tracks. If you need to make adjustments it will show up then if it is not already obvious.
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great advice on the rawhide,, rawhide is a great backing for bow projects and many overlook the positive benefits
of such a wonderful natural material,,pretty easy to apply and very effective,, beautiful as well, takes a great finish,, and art work can be applied as well,,,even though it won't add performance,, I do believe a bow can be safely drawn to a longer draw if rawhide backed,, and rawhide can hold down a splinter on a back of a bow that might not make it as a self bow,,, it does add performance in its own way as well as protect the back from dings and bumps in hard hunting conditions,, :)
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great advice on the rawhide,, rawhide is a great backing for bow projects and many overlook the positive benefits
of such a wonderful natural material,,pretty easy to apply and very effective,, beautiful as well, takes a great finish,, and art work can be applied as well,,,even though it won't add performance,, I do believe a bow can be safely drawn to a longer draw if rawhide backed,, and rawhide can hold down a splinter on a back of a bow that might not make it as a self bow,,, it does add performance in its own way as well as protect the back from dings and bumps in hard hunting conditions,, :)
I agree, rawhide is some great stuff.
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I apply rawhide or any backing after low brace, or even full brace. Too make sure the string tracks good.