Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Blaflair2 on September 17, 2014, 03:45:13 pm
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So I have a 70# bow I need arrows for. What spine shafts and what points would u recommend? I saw a little leather fletchings tool I plan on making to help. Any advice would be great. I have a bunch if red oiser dogwood for shafts but no idea how to spine them :-\ so I'll probly just be buying some. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated. Trying to be budget friendly the wife says. Lol. So I'm trying to do it myself. How to tune arrows as well will be appreciated as wekk
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Do a Google search for arrow spine. There is lots of stuff out there. You can make a spine tester for nothing. There's lots of instructions on making spine testers out there. I made mine from scraps I found in my shop.
Oh, watch this video. Very inspirational
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9907327A8447A869
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At your 29" draw you'll need an arrow at least 30" BOP. Id use 80-85 spine with 160 grain points. Should fly like a bullet. Keep in mind you need an arrow that weighs in the 650-750 grain range so your bow is healthy. That's why I suggest a heavier shaft and a heavier point.
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Thanks Chris.
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Pulling 70# at 29" ........I would agree with Pearl , but stay on the lighter spined side....... To use your natural shafts. Take 26 divided by 80 (arrow spine your looking for) should = .32 close to 5/16" this is the deflection needed.
Then take two nails driven into something like a wall 26" apart, lay your shaft across the nails and suspend a two pound weight (water bottle, bananas etc.)in the middle of the shaft between the nails. The shafts that deflects or bends 5/16" in the middle will be very close to 80# shafts.
The main thing is knowing the poundage your pulling the bow at your true draw length, not just the bows poundage. ;)
Good luck and have fun with the arrows. :)
DBar
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The bow was built for a 29" draw.
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Or build a simple spine tester. The caliper was $12 at harbor freight, with 2 batteries. Besides that it is about 8 inches of 3/8 dowels, 2 screws and a few pieces of scrap wood. Oh, and a $.25 clamp. 2 dowels in front to hold the arrow, and 2 in back to hold it to my tiller tree, when I'm done the caliper goes back in the case, and the rest sits in the corner.
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Thanks, Blaflair, for posting this. Same to all who responded. Big help to this newbie.
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Maybe a few hints, maybe it works for you, maybe it doesn't. Not about spine or anything, but making arrows in general. Here's what I do.
When I'm prepping shafts, I have to be in a certain state of mind. Don't be in a bad mood or it'll reflect in your arrowmaking. You'll let little frustrations build into big ones and before you know it, you've messed up a shaft that otherwise would've been fine with a little patience. You can use arrowmaking to meditate, so to speak, but make sure it's putting you into that "sweet spot" where you become the arrow in progress.
Straightening is a very critical point where that little drive towards perfectionism can lead towards cracking or breaking if you're not careful. It's important to have the right "set and setting" there, if you know what I mean. I tune everything out while I'm doing this. I put on headphones and listen to the same song over and over again while I'm doing this.
Get rid of distractions while you're doing nocks and points. You need to be making arrows. If you're making arrows, be making arrows.
Breathe life into the arrows. Think of them like beings you're creating. Visualize them as you wish to see them and it will be so.
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It's times like this ya wish there was a "LIKE" button.
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I couldn't agree more. Bowyering in general has taught me a lot about just leaving it till tomorrow. Some days I am just not in the right frame of mind to work wood!
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X2 When I run out of patience , I cancell all appointments and come back tomorrow.
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DC, thanks for the link. :)
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Very good info guy's, I will be using this as well. Patrick
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Danzn Bar, could you explain where you got your numbers from as far as the 26 and 80 in your earlier post please. I would like to use your formula to figure some arrows for some of my bows right now. Thanks, Patrick
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Sure Patrick,
First, standard arrow spine is based around a 28" long arrow with a 125 gr point, supported 26" apart with a 2lb weight suspended in the middle.
Arrow spine is reduced 5# for every 1" longer than 28" and increased 5# for every 1" under 28".
Also, arrow spine is reduced 5# for every 25gr point heavier than 125 and increased 5# for every 25gr less than 125.
As far as the numbers 26 and 80 in the calculation. 26 is a constant and 80 is the spine of the arrow you're looking for.
eg. This works for me with cane and boo shafts....If your draw weight @ your draw length is ..say 50# @ 29". You will need at least a 30" long arrow, which is 2" over the std 28" = +10#. therefore, you're looking for an arrow with a 60# spine with a 125gr point. If you want to shoot a 150gr point (25 over the std 125) then 65# arrow is needed. Then do the calculation for deflection. 26/65=0.4", therefore an arrow that deflects about 13/32" (0.406) is a good starting point.
Not to complicate things more....but, I have learned (from PatB) to start with arrows about 3-4" longer than my draw length, then do the math, and always tread on the lighter side spine. This will help, if you do not shoot off of a "cut-in" shelf bow and for the natural taper of cane and boo. Plus if the arrow shows a weak spine when shot, I've got room to trim off the arrow length to stiffen the shaft when bare shaft tuning.
Sorry for being so long winded, hope this helps,
DBar
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DBar, thank you very much! That is a very good explanation, and very easy to follow. I'm going to print this thread out and keep it in my garage so I can use it while I make some real arrows! Thanks again bud. Patrick