Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: alcot on September 16, 2014, 05:42:40 pm
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Pardon the basic question here but I've been looking all over the site but can't seem to find my answer. Just what is meant by a long string and a short string? I've been tillering my first bows with a string that droops down several inches of slack and of course have ended up with bows lighter than desired. Just how short should a short string be?
Thanks
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A long string is at least the length of the stave. It will allow you to see the bending bow before you are able to brace it. Making the "long" string as short as possible will allow for a more accurate view of the bow's bend early on. A short string would be the string that you brace your bow with to a normal brace height.
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Doesn't hurt to have a medium string too. Then you can have a low brace just to be sure things are balanced.
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Having a timber hitch on one end of a heavy string is handy for this so you can adjust as you go - I use mine for the short, medium, and long string. The long string is good for seeing initial limb bend and balancing the limbs, but once that is achieved, the medium or short string gives you a better picture of tiller. Tips tend to look stiffer than they really are on the long string.
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It's easy to make a continuous loop string adjuster.
I have a ring of aluminium that I wind the string through repeatedly until it's the right length, so I can start long and adjust it to whatever brace height I want as tillering progresses. I then use that as a guide for making the proper string. You can use just about any ring, I've use an old ball bearing race before now, it was a bit heavy tho'. A light weight one will even allw you to take a couple of test shots with it in place.
Picture of it here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html)
Del
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It's easy to make a continuous loop string adjuster.
I have a ring of aluminium that I wind the string through repeatedly until it's the right length, so I can start long and adjust it to whatever brace height I want as tillering progresses.
Picture of it here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html)
Del
Thanks!
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Peep sight Del. Admit it.
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Al, I think you are on the right track. The bow you are working on should be strung so you can see the true bend of the limbs. Once you get it strung you will be able to see the true tiller better and what needs to be worked on. I didn't think of that this last weekend.
Mike
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I use my tiller sting to get to low brace and beyond. Once I'm ready for regular brace height I make a string for that bow. Both the tiller string and the permanent string have timber hitch on the bottom limb.
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It's easy to make a continuous loop string adjuster.
I have a ring of aluminium that I wind the string through repeatedly until it's the right length, so I can start long and adjust it to whatever brace height I want as tillering progresses. I then use that as a guide for making the proper string. You can use just about any ring, I've use an old ball bearing race before now, it was a bit heavy tho'. A light weight one will even allw you to take a couple of test shots with it in place.
Picture of it here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/yew-primitive-braced.html)
Del
Thanks for sharing, Del, that looks easier than a timberhitch.
Aaron
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Peep sight Del. Admit it.
LOL :laugh:
Del
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I have a twenty strand dynaflight string Flemish twisted its whole length with a loop at one end and a knot at te other so I can make a timber hitch at whatever length holds the string taught on the rough bow to a long string. I adjust it just once for a low brace before making the bows final short string to finish off he tillering, adjust the string from barely twisted to its final state to get the full brace.