Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JoJoDapyro on August 07, 2014, 11:16:45 pm
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I started a week or so ago on a stave I got from Fred Arnold. It had 3 or 4 knots on the back, 3 of those he hadn't cleaned up all the way. I took my time and using my scraper cleaned them up. I started to work the belly and on one limb there are 14 pin knots, while the other has 2 or 3. The limb with all the knots is very hard to work. Here are some photos of the limbs, the smooth limb took about 15 minutes, and the knotty side has taken around 2 hours so far. My draw knife is tearing out a lot of wood. I took my scraper to it after and took off more wood in 20 minutes than I had in the past hour. Any advice on what to do? I highlighted the knots in red, and some of the tearout in blue, its really hard to see.
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First of all I personally wouldn't use a draw knife on that limb. I would use a good rounded rasp. And remember to be patient, Osage is a tough wood and in those wavy areas and around pin knots it can be like concrete.
If you're not careful you could end up catching a splinter and split the stave in half. Also be careful in those wavy area's because they can go from a stiff spot right to a hinge pretty quickly. JMO Patrick
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Sounds good, I'll bust out the rasp Saturday. Will tillering this limb also be more difficult due to the hardness of the wood around the knots? If it ends up shooting it will be a neat bow. Straight on one limb and anything but on the other.
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In short, yes. But not so much because of the hardness but because of the wavy parts. But you might get a second opinion on that. I'm working one almost like that one now. Patrick.
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Bending is bending no matter how hard or soft the wood is. Having two limbs with different texture and hardness(same wood or different wood) will teach you a lot about the wood as you tiller the bow so that both limbs bend evenly and together. Limb thickness in each limb may differ but with wood bows it's all about the bend.
I agree with Patrick about the rasp. Having a good rasp with one flat and one round side will get you places nothing else will.
Pappy made a bow with one osage limb and one yew limb(I think that was the combo). Other folks have done similar bows with good results.
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That was Will Pat ,but I have made some with BL and other wood combos not to mention we have all made bows with different wood textures in each limb,like you said it is all about the bend,so you can throw limb tapper and even limb thickness on both limbs out the window with wood like that ,do each lime almost like it is it's own bow,till you get them bending even. Where the limbs dip in on the back you may want to leave the belly rounded a bit to keep it from being to thin in the center, if you don't you are just riding on rails on the edge and that ant good. :) :) Challenging stave it looks like but if you take your time it should make a fine bow. :) :)
Pappy
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as of right now the handle section is till full thickness. I don't plan on taking much out of it, if any. What type of cork do you use when you make a built up handle on one?
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pin knots should not be a problem on the belly,,, if you are using a rasp,,,osage is hard to work with a draw knife,,, some can do it,, I cant,,,
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Made a new handle for my Farriers Rasp, it is working well. The limb with limited knots is fine with the draw knife, I was pulling curls 34 inches long.
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Like the advice you got up top, go with the rasp, then clean it up with a scraper. You'll be alright, it's osage ;).
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Ya know. JW has a really nice tool for pin knots. you might want to shoot him a message. it takes a while but really makes going around those a breeze.