Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ron Wright on July 07, 2014, 03:44:27 pm
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Well this is my 4th attempt at a red oak Mollegabet and I just might have it this time. What do think?
Red Oak 66" NTN
Dimensions:
12" static limb (not including fades) 3/4" to 1/2" taper in both directions. since my nocks are 1" from the tip, does this make my static limb 11" now?
16" working limb (not including fades) width taper of 2 1/2" to 2 1/4", thickness taper of 1/2" to 3/8" This is not linear, the first third of the limb goes from 1/2" to 7/16", then the last 2/3 goes from 7/16" to 3/8". With these thickness tapers is my limb working unevenly?
2" fades
4.5" handle
currently Pulling 47# @ 22ish"
Here we are at 24" on the tree
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1716_zps94f66455.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1716_zps94f66455.jpg.html)
24ish inch draw
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1721_zps0c69582b.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1721_zps0c69582b.jpg.html)
Here is what the Gizmo says
Left/bottom limb
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1723_zps2279dd1e.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1723_zps2279dd1e.jpg.html)
Right/top limb
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1722_zps1cbd1d23.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1722_zps1cbd1d23.jpg.html)
My gizmo is only about 4", when in the tillering process should I stop using it?
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your right outer limb is a bit stiff. use the gizmo all the way through if you need to, no shame in wanting a perfect tiller.
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I think both outer limbs are a touch stiff. Make sure you get those levers reduced right down to where they almost bend on you ;)
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I would round off all those square edges like a small pea before proceeding if I were you.
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Thanx for the feedback! I will round the edges and then work on the outer limbs this week.
I shot 2 arrows with a short draw and the string shock was terrible. The string was vibrating long after the arrow was in the target. I have a ways to go with the levers.
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Yep, those levers have to be tiny. Narrow them before you take away from the belly/thickness, and remember they can taper in thickness from fade to tip. You aught to be able to use it as a one-off spear if the bear comes in for close quarters ;) >:D
Or I guess two-off, since you have two levers...
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I've got it down to 27.5" on the tree, but still chasing the outer limb stiffness. It seemed to reappear every time I move down the tree.
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1731_zpsd9658f4c.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1731_zpsd9658f4c.jpg.html)
My outer limb thickness is a little less than 3/8" and I'm losing draw weight faster now. The brace height got bigger too. I'm almost there though :)
I already cut out the next one, it'll be hickory this time ;D
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The right limb looks damn near perfect, the left still just a touch stiff in the outer third. Sure is fun tillering small working limbs, eh? ;) ;D
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It's tedious.....but I'm getting right back in line for more ;D
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Tiller looks good. If you put the left limb as the lower then you are good to go
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Hey yeah, Marc's right, that could be your positive tiller.
Keep us updated on that hickory you mentioned ;)
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Take marcs advice and go shoot that sucka!! ;)
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Looking good ;)
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Tillered to 28.5" with the left limb on the bottom. Drawing 44# at 28".
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1740_zpsac0b8f45.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1740_zpsac0b8f45.jpg.html)
I might have gone a little to far taking wood off the static limbs though. There was some bend in the static limbs when on the tillering tree, but it doesn't look like much in the full draw pic.
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1737_zps3857824f.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1737_zps3857824f.jpg.html)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1736_zps7e681a6f.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1736_zps7e681a6f.jpg.html)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1735_zps0e8932a3.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1735_zps0e8932a3.jpg.html)
There is still a little string vibration, but not much. No where near what it was before static limb reduction ;)
After I finish the riser, I'm considering using a nylon/cotton camo fabric as a backing. Will this negatively effect the performance?
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Is that a string groove cut into the BACK of the bow? :o That's a big no-no! Unless you glue on tip overlays. It's a serious weakening of the bow, especially with a ring porous wood like oak. I would strongly advice you to file that groove flat, glue a tip overlay on, and re-file the string grooves.
I'm considering using a nylon/cotton camo fabric as a backing. Will this negatively effect the performance?
Short answer: yes, it will.
Longer answer: a fabric is typically dead weight. It may add a little bit of security in the sense that is keeps small splinters down. But since the bow is already shooting, there is no reason to suspect splinters will be raising. Since a fabric backing does not 'work', it only adds mass to the bow limbs, which will slow down the bow in principle. The question: how much? And will that bother you? You'll loose maybe a few FPS, which is nothing terrible if it is just a hunting or target bow. I can imagine that the beauty or camouflage added by the fabric backing, outweighs the loss of a few FPS. Other than loss of speed, there would be no real drawbacks.
You've made a nicely tillered mollie there! You can be proud of this one!
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Looks like a good molle, just need to make those nocks safe :o
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Cutting the string groove in the back of the bow risks pulling the grain apart?
I have some maple and some purpleheart I can use to overlay. I will get going on that, thanx for the advice.
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Yeah, that was one of my novice mistakes on my first broken bow, third overall. First two just had side nocks and fat tips, tried to get the tips reduced on the third and CAPLOOEY!
It was also bending too much in the tips, so that added a lot to the danger of the cut back. The issue is that the string is only pulling down on the material below the cut-in nock.
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Would grain orientation make a difference, for example a quartersawn vs flatsawn board?
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Finally finished it! I was getting 47# @28" when I first started shooting it, after about 130 arrows I'm at 40# @28". I think I'll call her "Barley Legal" :)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1850_zps9507e362.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1850_zps9507e362.jpg.html)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1849_zps00b5364d.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1849_zps00b5364d.jpg.html)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1846_zpsb65b9b32.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1846_zpsb65b9b32.jpg.html)
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1845_zps1496bd6a.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1845_zps1496bd6a.jpg.html)
Even got the tip overlays conquered.
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w644/panskinz/IMG_1844_zpsc073e5be.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/panskinz/media/IMG_1844_zpsc073e5be.jpg.html)
It shoots great, but I'm limiting myself to 15 yards or less if I take her hunting. The poundage and velocity is a little on the low side for these monster Idaho raghorns.
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Nice work!
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nice, if there's one thing that i think looks unsightly is overbuilt mollies. looks like yours is real smooth and fast, good job on it.
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These kind of overlays, that don't really change shape from the rest of the limb, are probably my favorite type. Nicely done.
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Nice work turned out a looker and a shooter, and legal to boot
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It came out nice,nice work,looks like you have a nice collection of horns on the wall ,maybe you can add to them with the new Molly:)
Pappy
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Good looking bow all around!
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Man i like this bow! Still aint built a molly yet, but its on my list.. To answer your last question.. None of us would recommend cutting across the back for nocks. But it would be safer on a quarter sawn bow... I went to see the Greyson collection on monday and believe it or not a very LARGE percentage of NA bows there had their grooves cut only on the back... Blows my mind..take it for what its worth.... Brian
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Thanks everyone!
The tip overlays were easier to accomplish than I thought they would be. I can see where even with quarter sawn red oak the grain could peel off to the side eventually.
I am close to finishing a hickory molle and I have lost about 8# of draw on that one too. Is this a common design/tillering issue or just how it goes?